Was @ my dads bay house, just returned home, I feel pretty dumb as well about this situation, had a hunch before that I needed 410 pistons, crunched the distance numbers and something must have went wrong, I am here to learn about these motors and hopefully find parts here and there, I'm just the type of guy that when people approach me in a rude manner it doesn't make me a happy camper-people usually don't do it to my face do when it's over the computer I think it's just chicken shit, but I admit I can be a hot head with not a lot of patience. So I am sorry if I affended anyone and I should have done a little more research before jumping to conclusions. I am very understanding a will admit I was wrong, I am just getting into these Old fords and there is a lot I don't know, but if I get disrespected I usually retaliate, nothing against anyone-just in my nature, well being a die hard modded crotch rocket and modded stand up rider, I decided to take on the Hotrod project for the first time. So I want to bury the hatchet and admit I'm wrong in this build right now, I bought the crank new as well as the pistons, don't want to machine the pistons nor buy new ones-and I don't want to change the crank. Can I change the rods to resolve this problem? Thanks-I can be respectful to you if I get that in return, all I ask
Well guess it will need to be rebored to .40 over, just had it done to .30, I know it will be fine but didn't want the cylinders any thinner than that-hopefully I can get sum 30 over 410 pistons and get them honed in, we will see. I'm pretty disappointed, I was told these pistons will work with this crank so I bought them. Buying my newly rebuilt C6 with shift kit from my buddy who has like 5 bumpside f100 and a ton of parts and motors-I'm thinking I can trade him these brand new KBs for that transmission and maybe something else, sucks! Don't want to rebuy pistons and I'm defenetly not changing the 428 crank. Any leads on some good 410 pistons? Any recommendations on a type that will work well with my setup?
if that machinist said those things you said he did...question the rest of the build.
There are a lot of gotchas in these motors, pushrod clearance, freeze plugs hidden that will dump oil if not replaced after machine work, specially sized and reverse freeze plugs, bolts that only go in one place, internal versus external balancing, exhaust ports specific to body style...best be sure you have it all squared away before you start putting it back together
Man I know the situation looks bad on him, but the guy is awesome and he knows his shit, he has a lot of my $$ and I put my life on it that he will make things right. He's runs a full automotive machine shop and does some really amazing shit, u gotta believe this is just a freak accident that he will make right-been bringing all kinds of motors to him for years and never had a problem. I'm gunna run everything by him out of that list and I am very confident that he knows what to do. thanks for the concern, I will let him know all my concerns, I'm really surprised it got to this. Before each decision he always looks up all part numbers of everything and crunches all the numbers, something was done wrong, I guess everyone makes mistakes. I feel bad for him cause he might get a little embarrassed, but I know he is gunna make it right for me. He's been doing this shit for 35 yrs-like I said I'm really surprised but not mad, shit happens-I got nothing but time
In the picture the walls looked pretty good.
The deck looked like it had a skim also which is good and bad.
Typicaly how a deck cut is done, is bore and hone for the piston of close to the proper
deck height of zero. The four end pistons are mocked up and the high and low of each piston
is meassured. Then you take it all out and machine the deck square to the crank and pistons.
You can also use the big V Block but I like this method. You are putting all the stacking in.
With out the proper pistons to meassure the deck height the machinest had to have just took a skim off
the top, and there by raising the piston even higher out of the bore.
A proper set of pistons and rings and you should be good.
Here are few that will get you close to zero deck. Still need to mock it up and make sure.
There are other piston options also, but generally costing more.
Good to see you focused on your build.
I still say if you like the Edelbrock 2X4 Air gap and Ed carbs go for it.
You truck and mini stroker will run like a raped ape, with a good cam. Truck headers also
make the most power in the small tube stroker.
A clear pic of the heads will get you the good and bad feed back. That's where the power is.
Barry Robotnick is building more FE's right now than anyone on the planet and he wrote a book called "How To Build Max-Performance Ford FE Engines" This is a book many of us here on the Forum have bought. Go to the links section and go to "Survival Motorsports" you can get the book there. It is an excellent resource that I highly recommend and worth the money. I would take a step back and do some more research before you spend any more money on parts or machining. Get a good understanding of what works on these engines for the level of performance you want.
Glad you came back, I think you will get the respect you want, this is a very knowledgabe group but can be rough around the edges. Good luck with your project, I look forward to seeing your progress. ww
Thanks bro, I appreciate that, sorry if I was a dick. Problems always arise when starting something new. Story of my life-you would thing I was lying if u knew how many hours I got logged in and money spent on these Yamaha 701 2-strokes, this is just another beast I got to learn
Todd I agree with Warren - get the book. "How to rebuild BIG BLOCK FORDS " by Steve Christ is also an excellent publication with lots of parts cross application information. All may not be lost on the .030 over bore. Get your bore diameters and talk to Barry Robotnick of Survival Motorsports. You may be able to go with a set of forged slugs without reboring. As for pistons Probe SRS 14470 dish pistons are very nice slugs and reasonbly priced - just might be the way to go for you. With a .010 deck they will get you about 9.4/1 CR. I've owned, built and run the bejeesers out FE big blocks since age 16. At 55 I'm on my last build - a 416 for a 67 Gal. FEs are great motors, they've been around 50 years now and I promise you the greatest resorse for information on them is right hear on this forum. Take your time, do the research and nice guy or not, give your machinist his walking papers. The only machining and assembly experience thats valuable to you as the end user is FE experience. Good luck
Buying only "How To Build Max-Performance Ford FE Engines"
June 17 2012, 5:58 AM
is a bit of a half-assed suggestion. The Great FE Intake Comparo by Jay Brown will be available anywhere you find Barry Robotnick's "How To Build Max-Performance Ford FE Engines". Truely both books belong on any FE owners reference library..
You probably have not notice but I am not one of those who jump on the wagon to flame your ass when you say something stupid. And I don't believe in trashing someone elses suggestion.
Maybe I'll start making an exceptions in your case.
This guy is at the very begining of his introduction to FE's. Barry's book focuses on building an engine and does an excelent job of explaining the numerous configurations. Jay's book if focused on intakes and in my opinion suggesting Jay's book would only confuse him further. Besides, from what I have read he need an RPM intake.
This sorta reminds me of my deal sweet departed grandma when she would say:
If you can's say something nice about someone, Shut The Fuck Up! ww
WW I said half assed in pun, but I'd be damned if I could say either Jays or Barry's book
June 17 2012, 9:13 AM
is more relevant to an FE owner. It's amazing that two excellent books on FEs can be so diverse w/ no overlap. I figured you had the "pun" coming because you or anyone else for that matter neglected even mentioning Jay's book. I noticed someone threw out Steve Christ's Book though. Seriously I can not understand how one would say "That" is the one FE book to have over the other. For Todd's situation seeing Jay's comparisons/tests would be very enlightening/priceless esp since guys are even throwing out custom ground cam's etc...
-----Sorry you felt flamed - someone had to step up for Jay's book.-------------
Girlfriend and we'll consider taking you back LOL!!! Just kidding of course but congrats for stepping up and not running from a little criticism. There really are all the FE answers you need here you just have to ask or do a search. Most of us have had every problem imaginable over the years and that includes the guys who build these all the time.
You do need the right pistons but shouldn't have to bore the block any further. Maybe a hone and they should be checked but having them a little on the loose side won't hurt anything. I REALLY want to see a picture of your cam plug at the back to the block. That's probably the #1 mistake made by those unfamiliar with FE's. Also make sure ALL the oil galley plugs go back in especially the one behind the distributor hole. Welcome back BTW!
One of the biggest fears in FE land is an FE going to a machinist who's hard-wired for Chebbies- lots and lots of FE's have been boogered up this way. There are enough differences that a guy who's never done one can booger it- while he may be top notch on Chebbies or other things. The upside-down piston thing was a bit of a stunner, as the pistons in most American pushrod V8's go in the same way, with the valve notches on top. Hopefully he is open to outside input, everyone here is ready to help- always.
Don't mind some of these vultures who seem to be obsessed with boobs- no self-control...
That's MISTER Moron to you, Dickweed
Don't let your keyboard write checks your ass can't cash
I hear that-Im a boob lover myself! Lol! And he does do a lot of chebbies and such, prolly hadn't messed with a FE in a while but he's had to have came across them over the years-may be rusty on it-Harold is his name and he's the kinda guy that will not sleep a wink until every stone is turned over-he will do his research and prolly buy that book to make it right-not trying to build a lot of hype behind him but I luv the guy, he's a damn genius. He has saved me and had me riding the next day numerous times when I knew for sure all bets were off. He has the experience and understanding, plus he has a lot of my damn money and has no choice!! Just trying to figure out a way to approach him-he told me these pistons would work after doing the math. I feel bad for him.
Oh and hear ya go
I think the measure of a true man is how well he handles his mistakes. An open apology to the forum like this says alot.
beowolf (member here) said it best when describing a member(s) here. When you walk in the forum it's like walking into a bar full of guys who are drinking and tinkering. Sometimes you could go all night and have fruitful conversations without issue, and once in a while, there is a biligerent drunk guy that is looking to pick a fight no matter what you say.
Also, typewritten words on a screen doesnt have pitch, inflection, or volume. Some of us are more worried about putting facts to the keyboard and the intended reader (if they have soft skin) will get a little bent. Dont be the drunk guy ready to fight cause someone is lookin at your lady's boobs. Cause they are!
You were once that drunk guy...
You are always free to come and go with an old opinion, or a newly formed one. When someone lays some knowledge on you here, it is usually supported by facts, or followup supporting statements from others.
If you want to learn, this is the place to do it. This place seems to attract every Ford geek across the globe. We are better for it.
I believe the fordification website has a breakdown of rod lengths, pin heights, and crank strokes for all FEs. That might help you with some of your issues.