with the engine in the car? Have a new aluminum radiator and aluminum water pump but would like to flush scale and rust from block any recommendations? I see something called "liquid intelligence 239" but it's spendy around $90, and I know nothing about it. I see prestone and barrs has coolant flushes for a lot less, but want something that works.
Re: What do you recomend to flush rust and scale from block
June 25 2012, 8:24 AM
Before I found out the 360 was cracked I pulled a freeze plug and sprayed water from a hose in there till it came out clear. Not sure if that is an option for you. But it's pretty much the only way to really get it all out.
Not sure you can even still get the good stuff but years ago Prestone had a flush kit
June 25 2012, 9:55 AM
Part A was an acid and that was followed by Part B a base to neutralize the acid. Not sure how bad things are but simply running several complete fills/drains of Distilled or Deionized Water will absolutely grab minerals, rust etc.
About a 50/50 mix with water. Run it through its heat cycle, with heater control open. It may take 2 or 3 drain & refills, but vinegar is dirt cheap and it works.Just drain it at your radiator pitcock. Leland
Caustic acid was what was used years ago to clean engine blocks, and I believe this was the main inggrediant in the two part flushes. To the best of my knowledge, these flushes are no longer available. Even so, this stuff meant you might have to change water hoses and radiater caps after the flush, and I would NOT recommend using it with your setup.
I would not flush thru the new aluminum water pump or radiator. Take them out so you don't introduce junk into them or damage them working on this project. Those little pieces of rust can quickly clog flues and also lead to new corrosion problems.
Big fan of vinegar as well- cheap and pretty safe to use, no problems flushing out onto ground like antifreeze or some of the chemicals. But vinegar full strength can quickly eat thru corrosion/rust and a little pit- especially on freeze plug- suddenly becomes a real leaking hole.
I like to use a pressure washer. The 289 in my 67 Mustang that ran hot all the time but never leaked. Tried all kinds of flush kits I could buy 1 and 2 bottle versions, recored radiator, pulled & did heads, intake to see if warped/cracked, etc. Never got much out of engine with any kind of flush. Eventually bought my first galaxie to pull engine for mustang but before we did the old guy at radiator shop took out thermostat and bottom hose, put their big pressure washer in the thermostat hole and promptly blew at least 9-10 bottles (his estimate) of stop leak and sludge out of engine water jacket after 6+ months and easily 30-40 flushes/complete boilovers. There were chunks of it all over the floor. Apparently original owner put a bottle in regularly until engine was jsut stopped up. After pressure flushing, it never ran hot again.
Any acid or pressure washer can cause/worsen problems with freeze plugs if close to end of service life.
This message has been edited by cliffrod on Jun 25, 2012 12:37 PM
Re: muratic acid is another name for hydrochloric acid just give it plenty of respect
June 25 2012, 2:50 PM
I asked about rust when I took the block in to get it cleaned and the shop said their hot tank did not clean rust. What to do?? If you have the engine out opening the core plugs and mechanically scraping and blasting will get a lot of it. The mutatic acid might get some more. What's left you could neutralize with the kind of expensive but good "Rust Cure."
However, after all this one day I drained the water from the radiator and it ran red like Custer's last stand. So my final recommendation after all the cleaning is to immediately put some kind of rust preventer in there or it will happen all over again.
I'm with the others who suggested removing the water pump and flushing it with a water....
June 25 2012, 8:19 PM
hose directly into the coolant ports, also need to uncap the heater core hose and/or remove the T-stat to allow the water coming out to do so without obstructing the out going rust. You'll get 90% of it out this way. Flush it til it runs clear, varying the stream going in to better reach the nooks and crannies.
I recall several times internally cleaning blocks via a pressure washer shot into the deck
June 26 2012, 2:17 PM
water passages. The area adjascent to the lifter galley takes a straight shot to get at vs in the freeze plugs and if it's got screw in I would not even touch them.
I've seen true HiPerf blocks never are found gunked up to hell in either water passages or oil wetted areas, a quick blast with a pressure washer and your back in town. Some 390 out of a junk yard truck/car better look out LOL
Hello, At Ford we have a quart bottle called VC9. We use it to clean scale and rust from cooling systems. It must be used on warrantee repairs on oil cooler blockage. You have to flush it all oput after installed and ran for 30 minutes at 1,500 to 2,000 RPM with the heat on. All Ford dealers will have it in stock.
get under car, remove all soft plugs (they're probably leaking/seeping anyway), insert spray nozzle on end of garden hose or a high pressure washer would be better, douche 'till the water is clear, reinstall soft plugs, top-off coolant and drive on down the road.