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Unilite Question

August 8 2017 at 3:33 AM

SW  (Login Staceyanddee)
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I've been running this distributer since I built the car in 09. We got ready to go to dinner Saturday night and the car wouldn't start. I unplugged the filter that was recommended when I purchased it and the car fired right up. So, should I replace the filter? I think it is to prevent a voltage spike taking out the Mallory. Perhaps that is what happened?

Well, I can't even find one to buy. Part #29351


Stacey


    
This message has been edited by Staceyanddee on Aug 8, 2017 3:40 AM


 
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Ross
(Login Bad427stang)
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Unilite shutdown

August 8 2017, 5:04 AM 

It is possible that you blew the surge protector, but unlikely. I think you could check it with an Ohmmeter for resistance and it would tell you.

More than likely, the module is going bad. FYI, I would fire it up, run it for a while, then check voltage at the pos side of the coil. If it is over 12V, you are likely overpowering the module on the back side (through the distributor)

If it is the module, going with an Accel points eliminator or Mallory E-spark is cheaper

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/ACCEL-2005-Points-Eliminator-Replacement-Module,285032.html?sku=1052005&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=SMI%20-%20Shopping%20(CSE)%20(Bing)&utm_term=1100310042060&utm_content=Accel%20(May23_2017)

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mallory-6100M-E-Spark-Module,287767.html?sku=5006100M&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=SMI%20-%20Shopping%20(CSE)%20(Bing)&utm_term=1100310021181&utm_content=Mallory%20(May26_2017)

Here is a link to the power filter

https://www.summitracing.com/search/Product-Line/Mallory-Circuit-Guards

I will tell you though, I have never seen a filter fail, and I haven't seen a need for a filter. It has almost always been a problem with too much voltage to the coil when a Unilite fails (although 8 years out of it isn't bad, some MSDs seem to be failing out of the box lately)
[linked image]
---------------------------------
- 70 Fastback Mustang, 489 cid FE, Victor, SEFI, TKO-600 5 speed, 4.11 9 inch.
- 71 F100 shortbed 4x4, 445 cid FE, headers, RPM intake, 1000 HP series Holley, 4 speed

 
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BattlestarGalactic
(Login BattlestarGalactic)
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The filter is obsolete?

August 8 2017, 6:00 AM 

Just finished up the Willys blown hemi project. The owner takes it for a drive and barely makes it home. Snorting and coughing. I checked into getting a filter and NLA everywhere.

Car has 1/2 hr run time on it. Brand new Unilite with MSD 6AL digital. I put a new unilite(out of another dist) and car runs. Not great, I think there is other issues now and will be investigating tonight. I talked to MSD and didn't get much from them.

My Unilite in the wagon has been going strong for years, but it only runs 2-3 minutes at a time. I agree, you seem to hear more and more horror stories of faulty new stuff these days.

I can't see how too much voltage hurt this one? Runs a one wire alternator and voltmeter never goes over 13.5v because of all the crap that runs on this car(fuel pump,fans, etc). Wonder what it takes to hurt it?

LarryK
2006/2009 UMTR Points Champion

 
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SW
(Login Staceyanddee)
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Looks like an updated part number.

August 8 2017, 9:57 AM 

I'll do the voltage check on the coil and ohm the filter. What reading should I expect on the in/out side of the filter? When you say to run the car then check the voltage on the positive post, I presume key on, not running. And thank you for the input. I figured I'd have to buy a whole new distributor. Actually I'd probably throw the OE unit back in if the Mallory gives up.


    
This message has been edited by Staceyanddee on Aug 8, 2017 12:00 PM


 
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Ross
(Login Bad427stang)
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Too much voltage

August 8 2017, 3:30 PM 

I am not an electrical engineer, but the light can take 14.5V on the feed, where it goes wrong is if the pos side of the coil is too high. When the module grounds and collapses the field, apparently the ground side can't take the voltage.

If you read the Mallory instructions it says I think 10V to the coil, but I'd need to go back and verify
[linked image]
---------------------------------
- 70 Fastback Mustang, 489 cid FE, Victor, SEFI, TKO-600 5 speed, 4.11 9 inch.
- 71 F100 shortbed 4x4, 445 cid FE, headers, RPM intake, 1000 HP series Holley, 4 speed

 
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SW
(Login Staceyanddee)
Members

Just ran out and checked voltage.

August 9 2017, 5:16 AM 

Key on 5.75 volts. I did not run it as you suggested but I will. The filter was 000 on the green and brown wires and the red wire had 10 ohms for what that is worth.

Edit; I did let it run for a few minutes and have between 9.39 and 9.53 volts on the + terminal. Not only that, I plugged the filter back in and it run's. Perhaps it's time for a little dielectric grease.

Stacey


    
This message has been edited by Staceyanddee on Aug 9, 2017 11:21 AM


 
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Ross
(Login Bad427stang)
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That's why it lasted so long

August 9 2017, 5:40 PM 

You have good voltage to keep it alive a long time.

Odd numbers on the filter, could be bad, maybe not, not sure what resistance is supposed to be on that red feed to the LED. I figured you would have an infinite reading on one of them
[linked image]
---------------------------------
- 70 Fastback Mustang, 489 cid FE, Victor, SEFI, TKO-600 5 speed, 4.11 9 inch.
- 71 F100 shortbed 4x4, 445 cid FE, headers, RPM intake, 1000 HP series Holley, 4 speed

 
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BattlestarGalactic
(Login BattlestarGalactic)
Members

The Willys has a 6AL digitial...

August 9 2017, 5:56 AM 

and you can not check voltage at the coil with a voltmeter. It pulses and takes better equipment then I have.

I did find out the situation last night. After checking timing(still at 30 like it was set), I did notice my timing light would go black occasionally. You could hear it in the motor when it did.

I found the spare cap, rotor and installed them> Runs perfect. Timing is dead on and no miss. Taking a close look at the cap I noticed the inside roof had some rub spots in it around the ribs. Can't really see any marks on the rotor, but I guess it must be the screw head that holds the arm on must have been rubbing? You can't really feel it rubbing just by sticking it in the cap and pushing hard on it. It runs for now, that is all that matters. Ugh.

LarryK
2006/2009 UMTR Points Champion

 
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chris h
(Login kch)
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Unilite will run for a while...........

August 9 2017, 1:44 PM 

In one of my cars it ran all winter. I had removed the ballast from the distributor. It then died! I added a filter a ballast and a new lite. Runs fine now

 
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Ross
(Login Bad427stang)
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You make a good point

August 9 2017, 5:45 PM 

The issue with overpowering the coil DOES NOT APPLY with a CD ignition

The CD ignition of any brand is very easy on a Unilite as it only uses the green wire as a trigger for the CD not to collapse the coil field.

You are 100% right that the measurement of voltage means nothing on your system, it is when Unilite is wired without a CD ignition that you need to check coil voltage. Sorry for not clarifying
[linked image]
---------------------------------
- 70 Fastback Mustang, 489 cid FE, Victor, SEFI, TKO-600 5 speed, 4.11 9 inch.
- 71 F100 shortbed 4x4, 445 cid FE, headers, RPM intake, 1000 HP series Holley, 4 speed

 
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BattlestarGalactic
(Login BattlestarGalactic)
Members

The OP did not have a CD ignition...

August 10 2017, 10:48 AM 

but I know with talking with MSD there are things you can't check like with a std ignition and with the crap I just went through with this basically new Unilite/MSD set up I wanted to clarify things for others.

Nothing on what you said was wrong, I was just adding additional information.

LarryK
2006/2009 UMTR Points Champion

 
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