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Starter frustration

October 4 2017 at 11:13 AM
jgkurz  (Login jgkurz)
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Hi folks, I need some starter advice. I just got my engine running a few weeks ago and I already broke a starter. Somehow I broke the internal clutch which is usually a result of an engine kickback. I don't recall that ever happening. I bought my current high-end starter from a really good company, but I still had an issue. They have treated me well and have great customer service so I prefer to not name them outright. I am going to put the repaired unit back in but if it breaks again I need to make a change. I am 95% confident the installation, wiring, and gear spacing are all correct. All parts are new including the flexplate. My engine started fine for three weeks then "clank" with no engagement. The engine isn't a radical race engine in that it is a typical street 427 with 10.5:1 compression. It's well within the limits of most any highend starter. I could probably even use a stock starter, but wanted a gear reduction mini starter that I could clock away from my headers. My personal preference is to buy high quality stuff on the front end so I don't have to spend time fixing my car later. For the most part, I believe in the old adage "you get what you pay for". Certainly that's not always true. My point is that I want to know all options, not just the affordable ones.

With that said, what starters have worked well for you?

Thank you,
John





    
This message has been edited by jgkurz on Oct 4, 2017 11:36 AM


 
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AuthorReply

javier
(Login Ranchopower)
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starter

October 4 2017, 11:26 AM 

usually try to set up the ignition to light up after the starter is spinning the engine for that exact reason.

Never know when it will bite back.

Also using large batter cable like for a farm tractor makes a big difference in starter performance.

just repair starter move on, may never happen like that again.

 
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jgkurz
(Login jgkurz)
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Re: starter

October 4 2017, 11:58 AM 

Thanks for the perspective javier. I will definitely give it another chance. I'm just curious if anyone has religion regarding their choice of starters on an FE.


    
This message has been edited by jgkurz on Oct 4, 2017 11:58 AM


 
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Bill Troth
(Login billtroth)
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Powermaster XS has been good for me

October 4 2017, 12:06 PM 

I have used it for over 10 years on my 11:1+ compression race motors. I just had Powermaster do a "refurbish" on it last spring and they only charged me $85.
Bill Troth
AFTERSHOCK 427
64 Galaxie NSS
[linked image]

 
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Mike U.
(Login mtrain)
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Just went through this. Do what Tom P told me...........

October 4 2017, 2:10 PM 

Tom told me to run a separate push button start switch.

Just to make this more simple. I still use my key to turn the ignition ON.

Then I push the button to start the engine, and let off the button once the engine is started. The key stays on until I want to turn the engine off.

Wire one prong of the push button to the energized part of the solenoid, then the other prong directly to POS side of battery.

This way the starter isn't still energized by a possible bad key switch. In my case a new key switch was over $200.

 
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Tom P
(Login tomposthuma)
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Re: Just went through this. Do what Tom P told me...........

October 4 2017, 9:26 PM 

I wouldn't have said that, it's the opposite of what I do. I crank mine with the key then flip a toggle switch on to activate the ignition box. You don't need a separate switch for the ignition unless the timing is locked out, mine will crank and fire just fine with the switch left on (and 40 degrees timing) as long as the battery isn't low.

By the way, I think all those aftermarket starters are poorly designed. The factory Ford mini starter off any 90's and newer engine can be modified to work better. I suspect the GM ones could too, the new Corvette starters (haven't looked at any other ones) are half the size of the current "mini" starters. Mine is a 4.0L V6 one from an Explorer with 100,000+ miles, mounted upside down and a bit of cutting and welding.


    
This message has been edited by tomposthuma on Oct 4, 2017 9:33 PM


 
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paulie
(Login Paul_Lovett)
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I've had a Tilton Super Starter on my 428 for about 15 years.

October 4 2017, 6:22 PM 

It's never given me a lick of trouble. I had the machine shop drill extra holes in the mounting plate so I could clock it in more positions for clearance.

It's great, but I bought it 15+ years ago so I don't know if they are the same now. They might not even be made in the USA anymore. The quality may or may not still be there. I just don't know.

paulie

 
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Randy Millard
(Login Henrysnephew)
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X 2 for Tilton - I've got you beat Paulie...

October 5 2017, 5:56 AM 

A Tilton has been cranking my SOHC since 1985 (32 years) without a problem. Yes, they're likely a little pricey but, in my opinion, worth it. Randy Millard (Henrysnephew)

 
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Wreckless Warren
(Login stroked390)
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x 3 For The Tilton, Going on 18 Years & 2nd Engine nm

October 5 2017, 3:21 PM 

ww
1965 Galaxie 500XL Z-Code 390/445 C-6
1965 Galaxie 500XL P-Code 390/445 4-Speed

 
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Boxtop David
(Login davidleshay)
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Got a Jeg's brand

October 4 2017, 6:41 PM 

and it works perfect. Has lots of adjustment to fit any way you need it. Only problem I had was to ream out the bolt holes to match the Quick Time bellhousing. Otherwise it's good.

 
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Don
(Login vtdon)
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my experience

October 5 2017, 3:01 AM 

I had my Ford OEM starter remanufactured by a small shop about 20 years ago. Has worked flawlessly ever since. Actually, worked well before, just wanted insurance. Is in a '68 GT500 side oiler with SuperComp headers. All electrical connections are PERFECT. I'm at a loss to understand wasting money on aftermarket starters.

 
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Falcon67
(Login Falcon67)
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PMGR starters

October 5 2017, 6:36 AM 

I have three here - two Summit brand and one Powermaster. The Powermaster is one of the universal clocking types and it's a PITA to keep set properly. One of the Summits units is 17 years old and missing one ear. The newer one is on the dragster. All work fine as far as spinning the motor over. The dragster motor is 11.8:1 and has no cranking issues.

IMHO if the engine tune has something that would cause it to kick backwards during cranking, you're gonna break something and that's universal - not mfg dependent. Even the race engines here locked at 36 degrees timing don't have that issue on start up. If it's some nature of the build, then as above - wire a switch to your ignition to kill the spark until the motor is cranking at full speed, then switch on.

 
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Bob Mosher
(Login RGMosher)
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NAPA 10 years

October 5 2017, 7:15 AM 

Optional cost Top quality version.


    
This message has been edited by RGMosher on Oct 5, 2017 7:16 AM


 
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jgkurz
(Login jgkurz)
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Thanks

October 5 2017, 7:45 AM 

Thank you everyone. Just the perspective I was looking for. -John

 
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Paul
(Login metalmeister)
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My 50 year old Ford starter still going

October 5 2017, 11:25 AM 

I just cleaned ( scotch bright ) up the armature a few years back on my 1967 Ford stock starter. Still cranking at 85k miles.

 
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Bill Ballinger
(Login 65billgal)
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Those old Ford Tractors are amazing, ours was a '38 8N

October 7 2017, 2:08 PM 

And all of the stuff like the starter, generator, voltage regulator all I did was maintain them, new brushes and clean the points on the reg and set them. I cleaned the original points and dipped the coil tip in white vinegar to take corrosion off, cleaned the carb out every couple years and it would fire right up every time. My father in law used it after an ice storm to trim his trees from the front loader bucket a year before Cancer took him. my brother in law gave it away. He did n;'t have time to fool with it. All it needed was a jump.

I kept that think up and my he and my son broke it and put in a new clutch, hoses and painted it.

 
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Paul
(Login metalmeister)
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My 50 year old Ford starter still going

October 5 2017, 11:25 AM 

I just cleaned ( scotch bright ) up the armature a few years back on my 1967 Ford stock starter. Still cranking at 85k miles.

 
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fordsel
(Login fordsel)
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robb mc

October 6 2017, 5:32 PM 

excellent starter .

 
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