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Thermostat housing extension with temp bung

October 9 2017 at 9:18 AM
Jim  (Login FormerlyCyclonic66)
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Some time ago (don't even remember if it was on this site)I recall someone made a billet extension for the thermostat housing. This relocated the t-stat out about 1 1/2 inches and offered a port for an additional temp sensor.

This would be a great solution for the truck I'm building because I'm using a '66 PI intake and don't want to drill or weld on it.

Anyone know where I can get such an oddity?

 
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BattlestarGalactic
(Login BattlestarGalactic)
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Don't know...

October 9 2017, 10:14 AM 

what mine is, but is an alum t-stat housing with a bung in it? I use it for fan switch temp sender.

Found it:
https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-thermostat-housing-390-428-1968-1970/p/TH18/?year=1970&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgOrZ9ITk1gIVQVuGCh09LwT_EAQYBSABEgJ0dvD_BwE

My blower motor I made my own housing. Piece of 1/4" flat plate with hole in it, piece of exhaust tubing cut and 90'd to aim it directly sideways instead of up/over. I welded a bung in it for temp sender for fan switch.

LarryK
2006/2009 UMTR Points Champion

 
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Jim
(Login FormerlyCyclonic66)
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Prefer other side of t-stat

October 9 2017, 11:17 AM 

May not be a big deal because the intake and t-stat housing are aluminum and likely not that far apart, even with the stat closed. But, I'd feel better if it were closer to the cylinders. This is for a Holley Sniper EFI. I suppose I could just use the original temp sending spot for the EFI and move the factory idiot light to the t-stat housing.

Or, what about this heater hose connection with a bung, used on 3.0 Ford Ranger...

[linked image]


    
This message has been edited by FormerlyCyclonic66 on Oct 9, 2017 11:18 AM


 
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doug smith
(Login cjshaker)
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The factory housing works fine on mine...

October 9 2017, 2:33 PM 

I have my temp sending unit in the thermostat housing that Larry showed. It works perfectly fine. I always drill a small hole in the thermostat (not sure of exact size of the hole, I just pick one I think is appropriate...maybe 1/16-3/32) to help air escape and that also allows enough water to pass that the temp gauge always gives me a solid reading.

Those heater hose connectors have been discussed before and it's generally agreed that the extended port that protrudes down into the intake is needed. Ford did it that way for a reason.

 
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