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Starter frustration - More carnage

October 10 2017 at 7:38 PM
jgkurz  (Login jgkurz)
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I posted about my failed starter last week and now I have more trouble. I installed the repaired starter then turned the engine over. Rrrrr clank Rrrrr clank Rrrr clank. Apparently when the starter failed it took out a tooth in my SFI rated flexplate. All parts were new and working well for about three weeks. The engine ran perfectly and never kicked back.

How in the world could I break a high-end mini-starter and bust a tooth on my flexplate? I am stumped on how this could have happened.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/74182/message/1507140838/Starter+frustration


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This message has been edited by jgkurz on Oct 10, 2017 7:41 PM


 
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fordsel
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starter

October 11 2017, 4:48 AM 

what failed first ? parts aint what they used to be, poor starter or flawed ring gear ?

 
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6667fan
(Login 6667fan)
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Some of the aftermarket mini starters are VERY sensitive

October 11 2017, 5:40 AM 

to depth setting into the bell/ring gear. I don't know if that is what happened in your circumstance. IIRC you paid attention to that detail during assembly but I can attest to the detail of installment perfection that is required. After several disappointments I reverted back to a Ford unit. I realize this is of little help right now. JB
Every second counts

 
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Mike U.
(Login mtrain)
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I'll refere you back to my reply in your original thread, and also...........

October 11 2017, 2:53 PM 

I had the same problem although I didn't bust the flywheel [also SFI approved].

I'm not going to repost again, but just look at your original thread, and my post [Mike U], and install a push start button.

Also, someone pointed out the depth, I checked mine as per the Powermaster instructions, and everything was perfect, but the starter still showed its ass when starting.

Now I just push the start BUTTON, and wait a sec until the starter is at full spin, then turn the ignition key to the "ON" position, and the engine fires right up with no after noise from the starter.


    
This message has been edited by mtrain on Oct 11, 2017 3:41 PM


 
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jgkurz
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No room for a Ford starter

October 11 2017, 7:30 AM 

Thanks for the responses. I had to go mini-starter so I could R&R with my headers in place. I will re-check the gear clearances. It’s the only thing that could be an issue here. I could swear it’s correct but I’ll check again.

 
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john vermeersch
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Tooth issue may not have anything to do with

October 11 2017, 8:16 AM 

engagement....possible a part that broke off the starter got jammed between the teeth, busting the ring gear....JMHO....another solution to header R&R, evan with larger Ford starter, is to make the last tube removable by cutting the flange and make a slip fit tube...BTW, its always a good practice to cut all the flanges apart prior to install.....Make it MUCH easier to replace a burned gasket (cut the gasket also )


    
This message has been edited by johnvermeersch501 on Oct 11, 2017 8:21 AM


 
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jgkurz
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New plan

October 11 2017, 11:07 AM 

I just can't get myself to reinstall the same stuff (starter and flexplate) and trust that it won't break again. I talked to Powermaster this morning and will be giving their XS starter pn 9506M a try. Their tech support guy was very helpful and made this sale. The owner of Powermaster has a 427 R code Galaxie and made this starter just for the 427. Apparently the regular 9506 doesn't fit without a bit of grinding.

 
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6667fan
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Stock starter install contortions

October 11 2017, 11:10 AM 

I have a 67 Fairlane with Crites 2" O.D. tubes. Engine compartment has similar confines and patience testing attributes. The ONLY way a stock dimension starter goes in/out of my bellhousing is by unbolting the idler arm bracket from the frame rail and pushing the drag link assembly forward I believe,( might be rearward), and then tumbling the starter body through the opening between the block, number 3&4 tubes and the drag link.
I have done this with Hooker Super Comps also in the same chassis.
[linked image]
Every second counts

 
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TorinoBP88
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Call RobbMc Starters. Explain your issues.

October 11 2017, 12:21 PM 

Even if you go back to power master, call Robb. Great guy, and his starters have a trunnion (nose) support!

Use Ford V10 parts.



    
This message has been edited by TorinoBP88 on Oct 11, 2017 1:01 PM


 
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fordsel
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starter

October 12 2017, 4:37 AM 

I have a robbmc starter in my car, works great and trouble free for years. fits where others failed.

 
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John Ferguson
(Login 57F600-390)
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Starter ring gear

October 12 2017, 4:32 AM 

Looking at that ring gear I see that the starter side is not beveled for starter pinion engagement. I would think that might cause a problem with engagement and possibly cause this problem. Many engines when shut down tend to come to a stop at the same spot this means that the same teeth on the ring gear are meshing together and without a lead in bevel it sometimes breaks a tooth or two when the starter engages.

Just a thought ----- John

Ferguson's Garage
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78 Fairmont 302/Auto
65 Falcon FE Gasser Project

 
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Leland
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I agree with last post. No beveled edge on ring gear. Ring gear is backwards JMO

October 12 2017, 6:50 AM 


 
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jgkurz
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Ring gear theory

October 12 2017, 7:23 AM 

Interesting observation. That makes complete sense. I will research options for a different flexplate. Thank you for taking the time to look at the photo.

-John


    
This message has been edited by jgkurz on Oct 12, 2017 7:36 AM


 
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Anonymous
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Re: Ring gear theory

October 12 2017, 9:44 AM 

It's been a while, but I don't recall any bevel on the ring gears or flex plates I've replaced. Definitely on the starter gear, but not in the flywheel gears. Again it's been a while.....

 
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Tom P
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starter

October 13 2017, 10:40 AM 

The Robb Mc starter is like the Ford starters, they work well. Not sure the V10 is any different from a 4 banger, looks like the same motor. The larger FE flywheel make more leverage.

The others are a Japanese starter off a 70's Datsun that was hastily adapted to American V8's decades ago. Just the same way as the aftermarket steering columns are all based on a mid 70's GM and suspensions are a Mustang II....one guy used that on his lowbuck street rod in 1985 and everyone else did too... then the aftermarket makes an expensive shiny version of it. Even though much better stuff has been on cars for decades since.

 
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