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Rust removal and powdercoating

October 12 2017 at 3:20 PM

Mike  (Login urchinhead)
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I took the advice of some of the forum members, and started using white vinegar to remove rust from parts. I started with carb linkage, and have now moved on to an entire air cleaner submerged in a giant tank full of vinegar.

What looked like an unusable pile of rust is now stripped down to the galvanized surface. I am hoping to have this powder coated, but was wondering if I should also use some laquer thinner or something else to clean everything before I take it to the coating shop. I am also worried the coating shop might not want to coat anything soaked in vinegar, so I was hoping some can share their experience. Thanks.

 
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(Login cliffrod)
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Ask the shop you use

October 12 2017, 6:46 PM 

One place near me when I lived in TN would finish cleaning with water- not sure that is the best way. The local shop here will do a final de-greasing immediately before they hang it in the oven. We take parts fully cleaned, sometimes bead blasted if that is needed. It's tough to never touch a part or get it dirty between our place and his, so he goes over it one last time.

Regardless, I would make sure the acid is neutralized with a base (like baking soda) solution or similar before powder coating. Then rinse well with clean water to remove the acid, base or salts left behind by the acid-base neutralization process, which makes salt and water. Any acid (or base or salt) remaining in the nooks and crannies, even as mild as vinegar, will keep aciting if it's trapped under the powder. Heat won't neutralize any of it. It will only drive off the water and leave the undesirable molecules behind to keep wrecking your parts.
1967 Galaxie 500 Red original Q code 428
1967 Galaxie 500 White with Black stripes 428PI clone- car is dead & long gone, sold near Oak Ridge TN 2000, would love to find it.....
Please visit http://carolinasculpturestudio.com/ for pictures, information and video links to my work.

 
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Mike
(Login urchinhead)
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Thank You

October 12 2017, 6:59 PM 

For the thoughtful advice. I will talk to them this coming week.

I am definitely concerned with what might be left in the nooks and crannies. I believe the shops typically walnut or media blast prior to coating, but I wanted to get my stuff close to being there, so no overblasting would take place.

Valve covers are next to get prepped. Any hints on a suitable powdercoating match for much debated Castilian Gold?

 
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(Login cliffrod)
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Do they mix colors?

October 13 2017, 5:18 AM 

If they do, take an actual sample or factory paint code of the color you want. Not a picture. I sold my first Mustang, then watched an "restoration expert" use a Polaroid to spot-match the original paint..... It didn't end very well for the paint job.

Is there any of the original paint left on your valve covers?
1967 Galaxie 500 Red original Q code 428
1967 Galaxie 500 White with Black stripes 428PI clone- car is dead & long gone, sold near Oak Ridge TN 2000, would love to find it.....
Please visit http://carolinasculpturestudio.com/ for pictures, information and video links to my work.

 
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Mike
(Login urchinhead)
Members

Color Sample

October 13 2017, 7:39 AM 

I have the original air cleaner, never re-painted, but damaged. I will be using that as a sample.

The local shop has three different vendors for coating listed on their website, but I will talk to them about color matching.

Valve covers were spray-bombed blue . . .

 
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LARRY
(Login Dubs1)
Members

Other remover

October 18 2017, 5:34 PM 

I have found the best and least expensive is muratic acid. Available at Home Depot 2 gallons for $7.00

Am cleaning up a 67 390 4 sp S code FB left outsite for 26 years with windows open. Go figure. Acid in a big plastic tub has cleaned up 90% of suspension,wheel parts,engine parts et all so I can reuse almost all bolts and fasteners.

 
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