or any other Ford "numbers" guys. I was (attempting to) "de clutter" my computer room/parts storage/magazine liberary/etc room today, and came across a 3x5" Warrantry Registration card that I got with a 428CJ service short block that I bought over 20 years ago. It has a part number of C8OZ-SARS, and although the card has the name & adress of the BC Canada Ford Authorized Rebuilder (Vulcan Automotive Equipment, in Vancouver B.C.) on the front, the card also says "select 428 Cobra Jet short block, brand new, disassembled & checked". Have you ever heard of such a engine being offered? I did do a partial teardown whwn I bought it, it is standard bore and crank, has "428 Super" pistons, DAB bearings on the 1UB crank, (yellow paint marks on the crank), and C7AE-B rods with the 13/32" bolts. However, instead of the oddball 19/32" rod nuts, the nuts are 5/8" (my 19/32 socket is too small.) The block has the side ribs, with a 1973 casting date, and the FT style air compressor oil hole (plugged) on the side of the block. I have the short block all oiled up, in a plastic bag, stashed away, so I can`t recall if it has a A, C, or anything else on the rear block bulkhead. Just curious if anybody knows of this part number, or warranty card.
428 powered Fairmont drag car, Best ET:10.03@132.11MPH, best 60 ft: 1.29
59 Meteor 2 dr. sedan 332, Ford O Matic
74 F350 ramp truck 390 4speed
I am putting together a 427 to put in a 69 Mustang. I really don't want full length headers for it. Does anyone know if there is a company that makes shorty headers for my project?
Remember them? Big name for a long time, kinda faded out, had a resurgence, some problem or other, and then sold out? Imagine my surprise discovering today that Torco is now headquartered within drunken staggering distance of my house. OK, drunken bicycling distance. Groovy? Quit possibly, as they are stocking bongloads of race fuel. I may gather up all my domed pistons and give them a big hug.
They are marketing an additive/octane booster called Torco Accelerator. Have any of you seen this mentioned in other sites? I have to do some homework on this stuff to see if it is snake oil or the real deal. I am aware of the shaky "points" advertising of some of the octane boosters out there. I plan to stop by their place next week to snoop around, but any feedback I can get beforehand would be coolness. Thanks.
HEY GUYS WHO OUT THERE IN FE LAND KNOWS WHAT YEAR CAR HAD THE SOLENOID THAT LOOKS LIKE A GALAXIE FE STYLE BUT HAS A LITTLE BUTTON ON THE BOTTOM THAT YOU COULD PUSH TO ACTIVATE THE STARTER???? HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED THANK YOU
I think I remember them on some old flatheads, but don't remember what year range. May have been others. They would sure come in handy if we could still get them. RonW
how well would a set of c3ae 6090-c head work with the 445 sttroker kit from survival. they are the standard 390 heads 76 or 77 cc, not the tri-power or high alt. head, are these heads worth putting money into, like putting the larger cobra jet valves in them or should i find a different head. also the carb set up will be a tri-power with the 406 shorty headers for exhaust
CJ valves, bowl wrk and a good valve job and those heads will outperform the Tri Power. If the nostalgic look is what you want then sure using those heads and sinking $600 into them isn't a bad idea especially if your goal is the look and using the Tri Power.
If you want some more hp then trade the Tri Power for a Ford or Blue Thunder Dual quad and spend a few bucks on some Edelbrock heads (best bang for the $$ on heads). Paint the Edels factory color and with the 445 Dual quad and shorty's you"ll actually make a bunch of power and for the most part have the nostalgic look.
1967 GTA Fairlane convertible
1969 GT Torino original 390 4 speed
I threw together a couple clips that I shot on DW 07 and 08 with Jay Brown. Nothing fancy. But they show some of the stuff that goes on when the car isn't going down the 1320. I hope you enjoy them!
i am working on my 53 lincoln project and i removed the stock rearend and installed a 58 fairlane rearend housing. it bolted in nicely and is 1 1/2" narrower on each side, the problem is that it is to narrow by about an inch on each side. i was going to order new 31 spline axles for it but can i have them made an inch longer from the outside of the bearing to the wheel flange or use a wheel spacer? i already have the wheels i am going to use so changing wheels is not an option. anyone gone down this road?
The best way to handle it is to use spacers that bolt to the axle and have their own studs for the wheel. I have used them a bunch in the last few years and they have saved my bacon a few times! Hawkrod
Hawkrod
39 Ford Deluxe Coupe
59 Tbird 430
60 Lincoln Premier
(2)62 Tbirds
(3)68 Cougar XR7-G's
69 Cougar 428CJ 4 speed
77 1/2 Ford F250 4X4 w/460 swap
86 SVO mustang
76 F250 Crew Cab
1969 Mach I
look at my cars past and present at superford!
i am having trouble getting enough spark out of my mallory super mag in 427 sohc to fire the motor ( i had it tested, coil, cap also. i am running a new power house starter, and new group 27 battery, some one said i am not spinning the motor fast enough? whould a 16 volt batt spin it faster? looking for help thanks
one should get a strong spark merely by spinning the driveshaft by hand. Usually it's either a point problem or the magnets need recharging or replacement. Try the Mallory site below for help on either issue:
Btw, my 'bro doubted our old Vertex mag once. He touched the mag pole with the cap off while I casually spun the shaft by hand....it did literally knock him on his ass!
This message has been edited by machoneman on Nov 24, 2009 6:36 PM
While i dont know anything about the Mallory super mag, I had similar issues in the late 70's with the Vertex mag on my Sohc, What i didnt realize at the time was that the spark plug electrode gap was supposed to be between .016 and .020 with the Vertex. Could this be your trouble ??
Nasty evil devices when you get bit by one !!!
Bob
06 Dodge Ram CTD
72 "Mach 1" V Drive 390
69 Mustang SCJ 10.79 122.99 1.45 60 ft.
65 Comet 428
53 Willy's P/U 390
32 Ford P/U
30 Ford Bantam project 427 Sohc
This message has been edited by sohcbob on Nov 24, 2009 6:58 PM This message has been edited by sohcbob on Nov 24, 2009 6:53 PM
I have a 1970 ford Torino 2 door. No engine/trans, although it was a 302/auto car. no front seats, dash needs re-covered, body is rough, has a crease on the passenger side fender running into the door. It is very restorable though, the chasis is in good shape, floor pans are near perfect. I have a set of bucket seats that look great in it though they're not even Ford, I have a 302/auto to go with it, both would need reworked. It has newer carpeting, needs back seat recovered, and a headliner. I was planning to restore it, but don't have the time and have a Fairlane waiting ahead of it. Someone stopped and wants to buy it, but I'm not sure what it would be worth, he was wanting seats and an engine is why I mentioned I have some available to go in it. Can anyone take a wild guess what this might be worth...ball park. I will try to post a picture soon. I only have $400 in the car, surely I could get that out of it, maybe more? Value with the 302/auto? I understand without a pic it would be hard to say, but I'm just looking for an idea. Thanks for any suggestions.
I have been wondering now that e-85 has become more avalable has anyone (besides my ) been thinking about playing around with it? I have an extra set of 12.1 pistions for a 390 and all off the parts need to build. I would think with that kind of compression you can run a aggresive cam, get tons of torque and still have some street manors and reliabilty? . I'm sure there is some feedback out here somewhere.. thanks
It isn't common enough to ensure a ready supply and because it's more a political thing than a fuel it's also likely to disappear altogether.
The black 59 Chevy on Drag Week ran it, had nothing but trouble. I'd be leery but in the case of a seldom driven single 4V street car it may be OK to live with and can be converted back to gas if need be.
I have had no luck in locating a filter for the cast iron Cruisomatic in my 58 Fairlane.Is it just a screen that can be cleaned out or do I need to keep hunting for a replacment..??
This message has been edited by bad250 on Nov 24, 2009 1:23 PM
Mac's Antique parts has a transmission screen kit, which includes the screen and pan gasket for a 1958-1966 Cruise-O-Matic (MX version) for $14.95. The part number is B9MP-7A098-KT at http://www.macsautoparts.com
Or you can try Fatsco transmissionshttp://www.fatsco.com . They sell rebuild parts for a 1958 Cruise-O-Matic, so they should have the filter.
Yes you can wash the filter and re-use it. Spray it with gumout and blow with compressed air, you are good to go. I wish things were still made like that today! Randy
Randy
63 1/2 fastback 428 auto
57 Ranchero Y-block AOD conversion
57T-Bird 312/ T-56 comming soon
The new prosthetics are really good. My mom got hers done last month and she's already just about back to full use.
I feel your pain! I'm pretty sure there's a new hip in my future, since hip problems run in my family and I've already broken one. (Maybe if I stop doing crazy stuff I can hold off until the stem cell grow-your-own replacements become available!)
I had one done at the Mayo Clinic in 1989 and haven't looked back. Still raced motorcycles for about another year after the surgery, until my doctor found out. Get well quick.
I miss the motorcycles a lot. I gave them up for the most part. I don't carry squat anymore, everything moves on rollers, a 2 wheel cart or on a lift. When ED Jenkins comes over to get something I always have something for him to move, LOL. I'm trying to extetend the life of the first one as well.
but I have never heard anyone who had a hip done who didnt say that that they were very glad they did it... some even said they couldnt wait to heal so they could get the other one done !!
Break in the new parts slowly.... you have been partially rebuilt and will be running smoothly soon.
Bob
06 Dodge Ram CTD
72 "Mach 1" V Drive 390
69 Mustang SCJ 10.79 122.99 1.45 60 ft.
65 Comet 428
53 Willy's P/U 390
32 Ford P/U
30 Ford Bantam project 427 Sohc
and I'm kicking some a$$. Just think about this; take your time with rehab and every day, from now on, your are going to get a little better. Best thing I ever did. I feel that I got 10 years of my life back. Also, my doc was awesome. If anybody is thinking about having this done PM me with your questions. I did alot of research on this. I was back to work within 3 months and co-workers thought I was as good as retired.
I just broke in my new 390, 10.1 pistons, isky 270 cam , 770 street avenger and all else stock and I'm at 3000 ft elevation. I'll run 25% av gas and 75% super in it like my Mopar.
I set the timing at the factory spec 6 BTC, all in WITH my vacuum advance at 2500 rpm I'm at 54 degrees, is my initial high enough? and do I need to limit my vac advance down ? if so what should I be at all in at cruise speed? it runs sweet about 40 but I'm not sure where I should target.
One last thing, I'm running 45 psi oil pressure at idle and 90 psi at 2500, that seems high, I have a new everything and a high volume oil pump, should I do anything about this?
Well these subjects have been covered with much debate again and again but I'll give my opinion despite the fact that someone will likely quickly give you an opposing opinion (and we might all be at least partly right.)
Lets start with the last part first. The oil pressure is probably a little higher than you really need, but it wont likely hurt anything AS LONG AS YOU HAVE A GOOD SUPPLY TO FEED THE PUMP. General consensus and my opinion is that the most important part of an FE oiling system is a good large capacity pan. Unfortunatly there are only a few choices that dont sacrifice alot of ground clearance. At minimum, any FE that is going to experience "spirited" driving should have an extra quart in it if you use the stock pan.
Second question, the timing. The last concern is vacuum advance. First is the total combination of base timing and mechanical advance. A good starting point is 36 degrees. Driveability on pump gas will improve if you set the distributor up to get there with more initial advance than most distributors are set up for. I would shoot for 12 to 14 initial to start with. This should help give you a good idle/throttle response. Lastly, vacuum advance that adds another 12-14 (maybe more) at light throttle cruise combined with the right fuel curve will dramatically reduce fuel consumption under those conditions.
Last, in my opinion (and many others) the addition of av gas shouldnt be needed with this combination, and either way may not be the ideal way to achieve what you are trying to do anyway. Av gas has a whole different range of charactaristics that dont make it ideal for what you are trying to do. I'm not saying it wont work, just not ideal. This is really a whole subject in itself.
Thanks, I was worried about that much oil pressure hurting something, I'll drop from 30W to 10-30 and see if that helps a little.
If I move my intitial to 12 it will make me all in with vac advance around 60 no load at 2500, this is too much isn't it? so my best bet would be to limit the vac advance, but what is the max all in with vac advance number a guy should run? I know it varies but I'm thinking less than where I am.
few things don't seem Kosher. With 10:1 and 3,000 feet are really needing anything more
November 24 2009, 4:19 PM
then Premium?...............
Concerning Oil Pressure --- Can we asume you are talking operating temp Hot---Straight 30 weight. BTW theoretically by the book hot 10W30 and Straight hot 30 will both produce the same hot pressures. The 30 weight cold is where viscosity goes through the roof but the Multi Index 10W30 by the book will act like 10W cool. Also high pressure really should not be equated with flow that's strictly volume.
More importantly what happens to that HOT pressure as the revs head for 3,000, 4,000 5,000? If it's pushing much past 90 I'd be pushing it real carefully....
You sure gauge is reliable?
Re: few things don't seem Kosher. With 10:1 and 3,000 feet are really needing anything more
November 24 2009, 4:57 PM
I changed the oil to 10-30 and put the sender back in, now the factory gauge reads perfectly normal. maybe my mechanical gauge was messed up, if there's a valid reason I can put another gauge on and check it again.
My timing is at 10 initial, 35 all in mechanical at 2500, and 55 with the vac advance hooked up at 2500. is there anything there I should change?
This is the second time recently, that someone mentioned RTV being used near the rear seal.[rope or rubber lip type?] What is the purpose for it?-- And, can someone post a picture of it being done, to get a better "visual idea" of the "how" and "why" it is done? Thanks, Dean
That was probably me a while ago. I am using the lip seal. Clean the area to apply sealant with solvent first. I am using a very small amount around the seal groove in the cap and block (outside perimeter of the seal), a dab at the seal half mating surface and a thin smear on the block from the seal across the main cap surface of the block to the vertical push in wedges that slide down the side of the cap. As well as thin coating the wedges(the ones with the nail) with RTV. Grease the sealing edge and seal surface on the crank. Turn the crank once it is in place. There should be very thin coatings of sealant from the rear main oil seal across the cap mating area, up the wedge slides and to the pan gasket. If I knew you wanted pics I could have took some. Just sealed it up.
Thanks for the quick reply! I've had a slight leak at the rear main seal that I havn't been able to seal up! The next time I pull the pan, I'll try your method! BTW, where do you purchase your rear seals that have the white sealing sticks and the nails you drive in place? The seal kit I've been getting use rubber sticks and a metal rod to force into a groove to make them a tighter fit! I prefer the white sticks and nails, but can't find them anywhere! Got part #'s as well? Do you use red rtv or the Right Stuff? Thanks, Dean
This message has been edited by DYNO427 on Nov 24, 2009 2:46 PM
Felpro lip seal BS-30138 and RTV Blue and would ......
November 24 2009, 3:48 PM
use sealant in about the same places on a rope seal. I coat the wedges and start them half way down the block as I am installing the cap. RTV helps them slide into place, then nail. I think I have torn down a motor with the white wedges at one time. But I have just been using the felpro black wedges. Hope this helps.
If you want to stay14"you need 14's from a 66 to 70 or so,or Granada-Monarch that came with factory discs.I just helped a friend do a disc swap on a 64 Galaxy and we found some Granada 14 wheels.He wanted to keep his factory XL500 caps. ROY.
We don't see a lot of 66-70 Granadas around here... perhaps they didn't start importing them to Canada until 1975?
But... if you absolutely need 14" wheels 65-73 Mustang ones will do the trick and fit fairly big brakes... but check first. Depending what brakes you used you may need the bigger 2 3/4" center hole and 15" or bigger.
You misread his post, he did not say 66-70 Granada rims
November 24 2009, 11:36 AM
He said 66-70 14 inch rims OR Granada rims. BTW, the Maverick rims are pretty much the same as Granada too. Hawkrod
Hawkrod
39 Ford Deluxe Coupe
59 Tbird 430
60 Lincoln Premier
(2)62 Tbirds
(3)68 Cougar XR7-G's
69 Cougar 428CJ 4 speed
77 1/2 Ford F250 4X4 w/460 swap
86 SVO mustang
76 F250 Crew Cab
1969 Mach I
look at my cars past and present at superford!
You also need to be aware of the size of the center hole on the stock rim where the hub sticks through. If you using Granada discs the hub is thicker in diameter then the early rims. The stock rims on by 67 Fairlane woundn't fit on the front after I put the discs on.
I used the granada discs and turned the hubdown so I can use any wheel 15" old or new. There is plenty of meat left in the brg area. The older wheels may or may not clear the calipher,depends on the dish, but I have spaced the wheel out about a 1/4" on early wheels and they have plenty of clearence.
As one who just completed converting my '63 T'Bird..
November 24 2009, 3:48 PM
...to discs, I will tell you point-blank that it depends on HOW (which "kit"/parts/spindles/calipers/etc.) you do the conversion!
I did mine specificly in order to: (1)use my factory original 14" wheels so I could (2)continue to run the new whitewalls I just bought, (3)the original hubcaps, (4)the original fender skirts and (5)use some parts (calipers and hoses) that I already had on hand.
The approach that I took is by NO MEANS the ONLY way or even necessarily the BEST way, but I achieved the results I wanted.
I will be posting the steps (including pictures) in a journal on the Vintage Thunderbird Club International in a couple of weeks when I get it written up and organized or you can PM me if interested.
What cam, car weight, what rear gear, what target RPM at 60 or 70 mph? Some bigger motors with less cam can use the .63 OD, but either will be a sweet trans. Be careful on the 1st gear ratio, some trans's have more then one option, so you want it to be low enough, but not too the point of silliness.
McLeod is reported to be making a new trans, but they are not out yet, so for nwo the TKO-600 is a great option, maybe the best one.
************************************
1967 390GT engine: 416 CID 233/238* @ 0.050 Solid Lifter w/ 4 spd TL.
1966 410 engine, 1969 CJ heads, CJ cam, PI intake
1968 GT/CS Mustang. 289/c4
Oh and a Bicycle - daily driver to save gas for the 'F'un 'E'xcursions.
Got a bad knock at idle. (free idle) Put it in gear it goes away,and foot on the brake and gas, it stays away.. Is my guess at a main a good one... I wish it was a noisey fuel pump. No such luck. Any chance, Can a main be fixed in the car? Thanks for any input,,
if it is a main, obviously the bottom bearing would be easy, but i think you would have to losen all mains to get enough slack to push a new one through at the bad location.
that came and went when I engaged the clutch. Discovered (after dropping the pan and doing other things I shouldn't have) that it was the harmonic balancer had broken and the outer ring had walked forward.
Article in Nov Muscle Car Review "Pair of Kings". Listed as factory "Long Tube Cast Iron Headers". Did 66 427/7Litre Galaxies accept/come with the long cast headers?............
'come on BB, late galaxies have the most rare long cast manifolds
November 24 2009, 10:55 AM
out there, you should know that, they go for $900 to $2500 a set,and are specific to that body. The are different than any other year of long cast manifolds.
************************************
1967 390GT engine: 416 CID 233/238* @ 0.050 Solid Lifter w/ 4 spd TL.
1966 410 engine, 1969 CJ heads, CJ cam, PI intake
1968 GT/CS Mustang. 289/c4
Oh and a Bicycle - daily driver to save gas for the 'F'un 'E'xcursions.
Did any 352's come with adjustable rockers? also, is a 352 pretty much a boat anchor or are there some usable parts for other FE's. just wanting to know if it's worth picking up, Complete car, auto, runs with ED 4 bbl. one other thing, I've heard you guys talk about "Pent roof Valve Covers" are these the ones that are flat on top? as opposed to the rounded ones? I understand that I need to use the pent roof VC's when adjustable rockers are used. is this correct? thanks
They have the same bore as a 390, so a 445 is possible if thats what you want , some others will chime in , I used to have a Police 352 it was a Solid setup ,( so yes it had adjustables ) whats your goal ?
gonna do a 289, c6 swap out and put in a 445 stroker in a 67 galaxie. just trying to see if I get enough stuff to help me with my swap by purchasing this 352, 65 galaxie for $500.
In 58 when the FE was introduced it was called "The Interceptor" (don't confuse that with police interceptor as they have nothing to do with each other). All of the Interceptor V8's came with solid lifters except for the Thunderbird Special Interceptor. You do not need pent roof valve covers to clear adjustable rockers but the 65-67 valve covers will not clear. If the engine you are looking at is a 58 it should have EDC-E heads and they can have machined chamber heads (not all of them are though) which are quite popular. Hawkrod
Hawkrod
39 Ford Deluxe Coupe
59 Tbird 430
60 Lincoln Premier
(2)62 Tbirds
(3)68 Cougar XR7-G's
69 Cougar 428CJ 4 speed
77 1/2 Ford F250 4X4 w/460 swap
86 SVO mustang
76 F250 Crew Cab
1969 Mach I
look at my cars past and present at superford!
This message has been edited by hawkrod on Nov 24, 2009 7:03 AM This message has been edited by hawkrod on Nov 24, 2009 7:03 AM
not the same bore as a 390 (4.00 vs 4.05) but can almost always be safely bored to a 390 and usually a 30 over 390---throw ina stroker crank like suggested or get a 390 crank pretty cheaply and build a 390--to me a 352 is dirt cheap and is a standard 390 just waiting to happen
The '65 and '67 are mechanically nearly identical. Any time that you are doing an engine swap, the easiest way is to have a compatible donor car--you will find that you are using many parts from the FE donor that are not the same as a small block car.
The '65 will have the steel frame stands and rubber engine mounts that you need to put an FE into your '67. Assuming the donor 352 car has an auto trans, it will be a cast iron small case cruisomatic, which is not dimesionally the same as a C6, but I would venture that the trans crossmember will be a closer fit for a C6 than the C4 one will be.
The rear in your small block car is likely not a 9", if it has a bolt-on rear cover then it is a weak 'salisbury' type rear. The '65 352 car will be a 9"--you will want to swap those if that is the case.
The big block '65 will also have a big block radiator and if it's a factory AC car it will have a fan shroud and clutch fan that works very well for hotter than stock engines. You will get all or most of the pullies and brackets that you need for the FE accessory drive, and lots of other hard to find parts for the engine swap.
The running 352 is just as good a starting point for a stroker as a 390--in fact you may get thicker walls with a 0.050 overbored 352 (which brings it to 390 standard bore size), than you would get with a 0.030 over 390 block (which is 4.080). A running engine gives you much better insurance that it doesn't have cylinder or water jacket cracks or other flaws that a bare block or non-running engine might have.
All the 65 and 66 Galaxies ( and Mercury equivalents ) I've parted out, regardless of engines, had at least a 9" underneath it
( yes, the 41Os both had 9-3/8"s ). Even the 6 cylinder 4dr!. From what I've seen, 1967 seems to be the year when Ford
got cheap and started installing the 8-1/2" in the small block cars. And then the 9" in the FE cars. Just what I've observed.
Oh yeh....$5OO is not too bad if the car is loaded with usable parts.
Everyone wants to use Baldy Valve Covers for their adjustable rocker arms in a 65 & up Ford. Only problem is for 65 & up Ford eliminated the oil fill/vent tube in the FE Intake manifold (except 427's) and moved the oil fill/vent function to the valve covers.
The reason for the pent roof is not only to clear the adjusters but to raise the hole for oil fill/venting so splashing oil won't puke out of the holes!
Re: I just picked up a 4 bbl intake with a filler tube for $50.
November 24 2009, 8:01 AM
I believe so, the FE covers so many years. But to make sure, get all the identifaction numbers off of the intake manifold and your heads and post them with the question and let everyone chime in. ww
?Re:reason for pentroof is not only to clear adjusters but to raise hole for oil fill/vent
November 24 2009, 4:31 PM
Re:"The reason for the pent roof is not only to clear the adjusters but to raise the hole for oil fill/venting so splashing oil won't puke out of the holes!"
Ive have one pair of much cherished Marine Pentroofs w/ integral breather mounts and internal baffles and always believed they were the odd balls since the vast majority of Pentroofs were closed.
Since 90+% of PRs are closed the key reason for Pentroofs was to terrorize brand-x JMHO
Hey I had a 352 hypo back in 1960 with solid lifter cam adjustable rockers and cast iron headers it ran really really good. It could have used a 4 spd trans though.
I kinda figured you were. I'm in portland at my sons. The 352 is in central Calif. If you want it I will be back in Feb. I could bring it to Portland. Mike
Matt
Do you know Phil Wortman in prineville, he built my 428 for my 56f100, great frind of mine. I live in burns, would like to come by and see your car the next time Iam in town.
Geocities is now closed and I cannot transfer the pages to Yahoo. I didn't pay enough attention to the emails and thought I had until the end of the year. They are not in the Geocities archive. Anybody know how to get through the round and round pages that Yahoo subjects you to, but seem to really say nothing? I don't have the time to start all over again. It took Cecile and I years of work to get them where they were. You can still view the pages, but we can't make any changes as it now stands.
Very first thing to do is go to the web pages and make copies of the source.
November 24 2009, 7:15 AM
Before it is gone, you can go to the page and then click on view source in your tool bar (assuming IE but all browsers have something similar). Now save the notepad that automatically opens. This will give a ton of HTML that anybody who is good at code can use to save your page with very minimal work. You will also need to go and save each picture. Just create a file on your computer and save all of the pictures and notepad copies of the source for each and every page and it is easy to repair and make into a web site again. Be sure to label the source for each page such as home, our trucks etc... and when you save the pictures do the same thing but leave teh name they already have and just add to it so when you put it back together they are easy to ID. The only fun part will be removing all the Geocities crap but you don't even have to do that if you don't want to. You can rehost and it will still look the same but eventually some things will quit working as Geocities turns them off (stuff like counters etc...) Hawkrod
Hawkrod
39 Ford Deluxe Coupe
59 Tbird 430
60 Lincoln Premier
(2)62 Tbirds
(3)68 Cougar XR7-G's
69 Cougar 428CJ 4 speed
77 1/2 Ford F250 4X4 w/460 swap
86 SVO mustang
76 F250 Crew Cab
1969 Mach I
look at my cars past and present at superford!
then also if you have the ability to (most browsers do), save as a web archive, and each picture can be individually downloaded also... so you can get it backed up as-is. You can open the web archive later and extract the code/text out.
************************************
1967 390GT engine: 416 CID 233/238* @ 0.050 Solid Lifter w/ 4 spd TL.
1966 410 engine, 1969 CJ heads, CJ cam, PI intake
1968 GT/CS Mustang. 289/c4
Oh and a Bicycle - daily driver to save gas for the 'F'un 'E'xcursions.
I have downloaded the entire thing in basic mode, it has all the images and there is a log file etc.. let me know if you need a copy. It's only 32mb so it could be sent through you sendit.com or something similar.
Yeh, but that is the old original site from back in the beginning.
November 24 2009, 2:32 PM
There are 30 total pages. I sourced all the pages and put them all on my desk top. Now I need to find a server that can host them in the page builder form they are in. I have all the photos in folders in "My Pictures" if I need them. I guess I'll call GoDaddy.com and see if I can host them there since they hold my Domain names. I will need someone to talk me through it though.
Wes Adams FORD428CJ
Built Ford Tuff With Good Ford Stuff
03 F-250 Crew Cab 4x4 6.0 and 35's
64 Falcon 428FE
55 FORD Truck 4-link Rides on air with 428FE
2000 Yamaha V-MAX VMOA#4277
2000 Yamaha 700 Mountain Max
2001 Polaris 600 Edge X
2001 Polaris 500 SP
Hi my name is Lou and I am from Melbourne Australia.
Here is my 62 Q code (Hi Po 390 375 HP) 4 speed that I bought earlier this year. The car did have the 427 style cast headers (I know they were 427 only and not right for the year of the car), but they were replaced by lighter Hooker headers. The cast headers were in the trunk of the car as part of the deal. The 3x2 setup looks as though they could have been a dealer install, but can't be real sure, judging by the pitting on top of the air cleaner it would be very likely they were.
The brakes, transmission and the electrics had to be sorted out.
The seals in the wheel cylinders were shot, the master cylinder needed to be replaced. The tranny had issues with synchros and jumping out of second gear.
It is very likely that the car saw some serious action on either on the street or strip, given that the car as a vintage Ansen scattershield installed. Most of the electrics did not work and had to be sorted out.
The fuel pump also leaked and was temporarily replaced until I finish the rebuild the old one.
All these issues have now been addressed and its now onto getting the paintwork seen too. The car had spent 40years in storage under carports or lean to's either in Upland or Fontana California. The paint is badly cracked on the trunk, parts of the roof, rear fenders and hood. The interior has some sun damage on the corner of the front passenger seatback and on top of the rear seat back.
I bought the car through a friend of my brother who is a dealer in US cars, I was sent an email with pictures and details about the car, I did some checking and told the friend to do the deal. None of us knew that the car had been on Ebay and it was a surprise to me when I found out about the ad by accident.
If I had seen the ad first I probably to would have dismissed as a scam and would never have bought the car, anyway I was assured everything was legit and it was a good deal.
I did not pay anywhere near the reserve for the car, there was only one thing missing and that was the data plate, that eventually showed after the car arrived.
I have the build sheet which I found attached to the inside of the passenger side door trim, title, registration records, DMV papers and unused license tags decades old for the car. Have not been able to locate the body buck tag, I have spoken to all the previous owners about the car except for the first who was deceased. There are a few things I would like to find out about the car. The big question for me is when was the original 390 replaced with turns out to be 406 short (casting number C2AE-J, the heads have this casting number C1AE-A. None of the previous owners could shed any light as they acquired the car with engine in place and the headers were always with the car.
The car does have the big brake drums, the 5 leaf rear springs, the hard brake lines run up to the radiator and along the cross-member below the radiator. It has the 3/8 fuel line in the car.
I would appreciate if someone who could shed some light on what the axle code is, see below the sheet.
Also this car does not have sunvisors, could not find any provision for them as the headliner and the window frames show no signs of any attachment points.
A shot of underneath the car and the rear springs, don't know why the helper springs were fitted and why the rear shackles are above the rear spring hangers.
A shot of the brake lines.
The front drivers side brake drum.
I made the decision to strip the paint of and did not want to go the route of media blasting as I really did not want completely disassemble the whole car.
As the Ebay ad said, the car was unmarked underneath and the body did not even have parking lot dings, the stainless was unmarked and I have been busy polishing them, the bumpers were re-chromed and I have new seat covers, carpet, headliner, interior handles, full window rubber and seals kit to replace all the weather and heat damaged stuff.
You can see in the following pic that the dash is badly faded and the seats soon cracked by getting in out of the car.
After removing the quarter stainless and going to work on removing the paint I was shocked and surprised not find any signs of damage, rust or even filler except for the usual lead loading on the joins.
Here is a shot of the hood and you can see why the paint had to come off.
The hood without the paint and primer to being treated and etch primed.
This was the outcome of it jumping out of 2nd gear and did not help the cause that the case hardening came away from the mainshaft.
The car will be painted in its originally coded Oxford Blue with the Blue Crush interior
Look forward to cruising the streets of Melbourne Australia before the southern summer is over with my bride of 28 years, the windows wound down, the rup rup of the exhaust on a warm summers night!
Thanks for taking the time to read my post.
This message has been edited by 1962Q on Nov 24, 2009 10:30 PM
I'm up in the Dandy Ranges. Your car looks like it'll be a ripper when you get done with it. I am just finishing up a 5 or 6 year rebuild on a 68 X Code XR7 Cougar. I managed to find a 428 to put into my Cougar. Also my Dad is half way through a rebuild of a 66 Galaxie Fastback.
Here is a shot of my cougar taken off the phone a few weeks ago. Hopefully it'll be registered next week.
Lou. Gotta' admit you stole it and I do hope the US authorities aren't looking for you next time you visit us....LOL!
Hey, after nearly 50 years, those helper springs are likely holding up the rear of the car these days even though I agree that they were 1st installed for better traction. Your saggy old leafs may need replacement.
This message has been edited by machoneman on Nov 24, 2009 6:54 AM
I wish you all the luck with it. I remember this car on ebay and all the confusion that it caused. Many people don't even know about the "Q" code 390/375 horse 4V engine that was available in 62. It was often passed over on the order sheet because of the more attractive engine options like the 390/401 hp tri power "M" code, the 406/385 4V "B" code and, the 406/405 tri power "G" code. I don't know the production figures on how many "Q" code 390's were put into Galaxies but I would guess that the number is very low. Do your best to stick as close to original as you can when restoring this car since this its very rare and few examples exist today. Thanks for sharing it with us and again, good luck with it.
Beg to differ--those short 427 type cast headers first came out on the 352 hp starliners--they are correct for your car.
What the difference was between the 375 hp 390 and the 401 hp 390 was the three duce set up---Looks like your going to have a great deal of fun with a great car to work--enjoy
wish I were back in a project---
Thanks for responses, it is very much appreciated and hopefully will catch up sometime with Ryan and his Dad.
Rod, I am in awe of you and your Lgt/Wgt
Dave, The car needs to be restored and it will be faithfull, maybe except for the Pentroof valve covers (I am hooked on the looks)
and some vintage 14X7 15x8.5 Torq Thrusts that I scored on Ebay recently
Bob, At least I did not drop $121K on a Mayberry "tribute" car, yes I did watch the "Andy Griffith Show" as a kid!
Roberson, Been having fun with from the day I first set eyes on it when it came out of Quarantine and got to hear it for the first time!
My post was not clear on the issue of the headers.
These are the ones that came in the trunk and are the long type.
The headers are in very good condition, there are no cracks or repairs and all the threads are clean
Here is the shot of the engine, I am replacing the valve covers they are too far gone to be replated.
Here are some more pics of the underside.
This message has been edited by 1962Q on Nov 24, 2009 10:18 PM
I have a 67 galaxie, 289, C4 with the salisbury rear end. I found a 65 390 auto car with a 9". I want to know if I buy the 65, will the rear end swap right in? I want to change the 67 to be a FE/ C6 car. what do you guy think?
Rear coil springs were first used in the Galaxie for 1965. The springs are bolted in on the top to the frame and on the bottom to the axle housing with perch plates, rubber isolators and a large bolt/nut arrangment.
This method for mounting the rear springs was totally redesigned for 1966 and up. The perch plates and retaining bolts/nuts were eliminated. Instead, there are pockets in the frame and axle housing that the springs rest in.
With this arrangment the shock absorbers limit the downward travel of the rear axle housing where as the with the 65 the springs themselves accomplished this.
Because of this the shape of the rear springs for a 65 are different than 66 & up.
If you use the 65 housing in the 67 chassis the spring needs to be able to bolt to the 65 axle and rest in the pocket of the 67 frame.
Here is a picture of the 65 chassis arrangment.
Here is a picture of the rear springs just to the right and the monting perch plates are the 4 pieces just above the backing plates. ww
I was hoping this would be an easy swap. I have a 9" out of a 64 1/2 ton PU but it's bare. I do a lot of fabricating so that's not the problem. just hoping for a bolt in cause I found a 65 4 door 390 galaxie for $500. with a 352 C6. It has all the motor mounts, kickdown linkage and so on for the swap from small block to FE. thanks for your info. I can tell your well versed on the subject!
They changed the length of the track bar in 66 as well. I don't know if it's longer or shorter and I don't know if the mounting point is different for the chassis side, the rear end housing side or both.
The easiest way to go is with the later 9" housing. Good luck with your project. ww
I looked at the Ford MPC to see what's different as far as part numbers go and the years for their application. The Galaxie rear axle housings are unique for 1965 and the same for 1966 & 67.
As a note, I thought the spring pockets that the springs float in for the 67/67 configuration were part of the axel housing but they actually bolt to the rear axle housing. So it is possible the pockets will bolt to the 65 housing without too much fuss but the mounting point of the track bar is different on the 65 vs 66/67.
I have attached pics of the 65 housing out of the car so you can see it better.
I would still look for a 66/67 rear end and eliminate any other unforseen obsticals.
Since you are a fabricator I highly recommend totally boxing the upper and lower control arms and treat them to new bushings, the difference with new bushings and boxing is fantastic. The bushings are available from Moog and their are also aftemarket polly bushings available but I would be weary of drive line vibration unless your building a race car.
The track bar/phanard bar bushings are probably shot as well but they are a problem.
Ford did not service the bushings seperatly, they just replaced the bar and bushings as an assembly and Moog doesn't make them. Rare Parts services the bushings but the cost is rediculious.
If you do a search in the Forum for "track bar bushings" and "phanard bar bushings" you will find several less costly solutions. This is also well worth the effort while you have everthing out. ww
For anyone who remembers, my collection, including my FE powered truck, was stolen on july 30th, by the local township cop. No court order, there was supposedly an ex parte hearing held against me, would have been nice to know. I would be more than happy to go and defend myself. I can see my stuff in the local impound yards, the hood is up on my Crown Vic and the battery was removed, and the 351W, the 351C, and the 302 in the back of my pickup are no longer visible. My van and my '88 truck seem unmolested.
You do have to be careful if you speak up at town hall meetings. It wasn't until my wife & I questioned the need for spending 1.5 million in our current crappy economy to build a bike path most citzens don't want that they really started targeting us. The local gubmint seemed downright irritated that I didn't want to give them 27 extra feet of my front yard to build said path.
So back to court we go......get to argue ex post facto, bill of attainder, unreasonable seizure, property rights and that fun stuff. Wish me luck please.
But the important bit here is to be vigilant- your rights are disappearing. You wouldn't think that you can have stuff stolen, by uniformed 'peace officers,' without a complaint, a trail, a chance to speak up in your own defense, but you can. I just happen to be the schmuck they went after this time. Next time they might be after you. LSG/Cal
states or cities where property is seized without good cause so the gov't can get some cash. It's then up to you to jump through the hoops to get your stuff back. Total crap that this can be done. I cannot even imagine how upset I would be in this situation. I hope that you prevail and that you get all of your items back.
Why don't you tell the full story? Police don't just take property without court orders, probable cause etc. You say there was the an Ex Parte hearing. What was this in referance to? Tell the entire story, town/city name, Chief of Police name, judges name who signed the ex parte, case number etc.
Just don't come on here and tell your tale of injustice without all the facts of the story. There has to be more to it than you are telling so go ahead and tell it.
He must be careful about posting any information. It will come back to bite him later as..
November 24 2009, 6:02 AM
...an admission. Remember the case recently where some animal lover on this forum sent the cops to a forum member's house, just for posting something on this forum about catching a cat? But I agree, it would be nice to know all the facts.
1954 Ford Customline 2-dr. sedan 390 4-speed
1955 Ford Fairlane Victoria 2-dr. hdtp, 292
1962 Ford Galaxie 500, 4-dr. sedan, 292
1968 Ford LTD 2-dr hdtp, 390 auto. (rough but driveable)
1970 F-100 360 auto (owned since 1985)
Yes, I understand that, but anything he posts here risks appearing as Exhibit A in a ...
November 24 2009, 7:06 AM
...courtroom. And the Township's attorney will make sure anything posted on this forum is twisted to serve the Township's need.
Make no mistake, I agree, we don't have nearly the whole story. And who knows, we may even be able to help him if we had the whole story. All I'm saying is that he needs to be careful about posting on a forum that is available to the public, especially when it is still tied up in the legal system.
1954 Ford Customline 2-dr. sedan 390 4-speed
1955 Ford Fairlane Victoria 2-dr. hdtp, 292
1962 Ford Galaxie 500, 4-dr. sedan, 292
1968 Ford LTD 2-dr hdtp, 390 auto. (rough but driveable)
1970 F-100 360 auto (owned since 1985)
Re: Yes, I understand that, but anything he posts here risks appearing as Exhibit A in a ...
November 24 2009, 7:14 AM
Plus, never show your hand in a poker game. From what I remember of the previous post on this incedent.
This is a more a case of stare down than one of clear cut right or wrong on either side. the agency didn't follow through correctly and got contested by the poster. These are the kind of things a judge "should" be involved in deciding.
Don't be so sure about the court order being required,
November 24 2009, 8:34 AM
only "probable cause" is needed, and the police are good at BS'ing something. Anyway, once they've taken your stuff, you're the one that has to jump through all the hoops if you want it back.
In some cases where cash has been seized, the police have used this cash in the proceedings against the person it was seized from! Some states also have very specific periods of time and procedures to follow, and if you mess up you might not be able to get your stuff back. This cuts both ways though, as some have gotten stuff back after the police missed a filing date or something. Either way, though, you're gonna be out the attorney fees.
Bring your tape recorders, more than 1, and keep them hidden. use them only after the transcript is produced for appeal and key arguement is ommited. It has happened to me more than once. even court reporters will lie for the judge, paycheck, and retirement.
Your chance of winning is little, the deck is stacked.
Not much of a conspiracy theorist, but he is right to fight for his rights!
November 24 2009, 6:58 AM
I've been living in the same neighborhood for going on 20 years. About every 5 years or so, someone from the Code enforcement klan comes around to tell me that "someone" has a complaint - which must be addressed. Generally I try to go-along to get-along with all my neighbors, but I do have a limit.
Seems there are several families who have decided the street is their personal parking lot. Most of the houses in the subdivision have 2 car garages and room for 2 cars to park on the drive way, as well as a space or two, curbside, in front for - visitors. Apparently thats not enough for some folks, cause they have called code enforcment on me for parking in front of my own house.
The last time, they came out I was not in the mood to play the game ... "start the car, drive it around the block. Sir you need to move the car at least 1/4 mile every 72 hours". as nicely I could ... told them to KMA. got a bunch of threatening letters. About a year later had to attend a hearing about fines and "other" inducments" they would levy to insure compliance.
Short story, turned long - the Judge looked at the pictures, the house and the letters I brought from other long term neighbors; then told them to quit bothering me. That was in 2007.
Funny thing; A couple of weeks ago, got a phone call about this same hearing, at least I think it was. The voice on the phone said I owed money, but couldn't tell me anything about it the case - just that it was from City of - Code enforcement dept. Seems the money grubbing Code folks, "lost" the record of the judgement in my favor, sent the case to a private collection. Spent 4 hours on the phone being told we don't handle that, go to or call this department. They sent me back tot he first who then sent me to another. Finally someone, who asked not to be named - told me that I should call the Finance department. The gave me the magic words, so I called the collection folks back; called them on charges, now they want me to produce the letter of judgement, proof of disposition of the case. ... like I have unlimited time and unlimited space to store records which, as a goventment agency, they are required to keep.
Told them, "Nope, you have people that are paid to keep records and should have researched this case before sending me a bill."
Now I'm waiting for the other shoe to drop.
As you guys have said, it don't pay to tease the bear, but every once in a while, we all have a bad day - they have me P.Oed and I'm just about ready to carry this fracus to the endgame.
If you are right - then fight'em, legally for every damn penny! Every inch of ground. 'cause the next person may give in, pay up and shut up - and that only encourages them.
This message has been edited by beoweolf on Nov 24, 2009 7:09 AM
If I remember right you live in the state of Michigan...
November 24 2009, 8:48 AM
the courts are stacked against you.
I have one friend who went through the BS you are into now. In the end his own lawyers royally screwed him.
Another acquaintance has been in court off and on for years fighting code violations. It only takes one anonymous neighbor to get the ball rolling, and the more he fought it - and won it some cases - the more the city targeted him for revenge. That would be the fine asshole city of Livonia Michigan. He has never had a lawyer that in the end didn't screw him also. As he has been sitting in the courtroom waiting for his cases to come up he listens to the other poor slubs getting their short end of the law from uncaring and incompetent judges and lawyers.
Michigan is a tax and spend state with most of the money going into the hole of Detroit.
Here's a link to the 4th admendment, notice the part about Curtilage. Its being violated on an hourly basis now in Michigan as local townships measure and snoop around houses looking to reassess properties to raise taxes.
Wes Adams FORD428CJ
Built Ford Tuff With Good Ford Stuff
03 F-250 Crew Cab 4x4 6.0 and 35's
64 Falcon 428FE
55 FORD Truck 4-link Rides on air with 428FE
2000 Yamaha V-MAX VMOA#4277
2000 Yamaha 700 Mountain Max
2001 Polaris 600 Edge X
2001 Polaris 500 SP
After Wes's Check This..Grab a container of Vaseline and smuggle it into the court
November 24 2009, 4:58 PM
and when no ones looking, swap it for that container of Valve Grinding Compound they keep by the judges bench. At least that way it won't hurt as bad.....
I know (not funny) but it's a stacked deck your walking in to.
The oil filler tube for my '63 T'Bird 390 4V is located in the front of the intake manifold on the passenger side.
I am getting ready to replace it with a Performer 390 which does NOT have a provision for the filler tube (the Performer RPM DOES have a provision, but NOT the Performer 390). I would prefer to NOT modify the original T'Bird valve covers to add a filler tube.
Does anyone know if there is a way to modify the Performer 390 manifold to accept an oil filler tube?
I did just that to my old Holley Street Dominator. It entailed drilling holes in between the back of the water crossover and the front (#1) runner and then welding up a round wall to retain the tube. You could even use a smaller diameter tube as i had to make mine sit above the water crossover as there wasn't 1 1/2" of space between it.
I also adapted a road draft tube to the back, the thing with it is the Street Dom doesn't have a round boss to use the 63-64 style wire strainer so i ran a tube from the back to near the front underneath to prevent siphoning the oil from the valley. The stock 58-61(?) tube location at the rear edge of the intake wasn't doable on the Street Dom so i went out the top and made a 90 degree adapter.
if I DO decide to add the filler (also serves as a breather) cap/tube to the Valve Covers, is there a recommended location (front or rear) on the VC? Any particular advantages or disadvantages (other than easy of access) to either location?
I did just that on my Performer RPM, drilled the pad and used a filler there. The regular Performer doesn't have a flat pad...
... so you would need to make a hole on the rearward slope and and flange that bolts down with an angled tube to stick upwards and use a push on breather.
stations?? Any experience with TAG system or PerformAire? I've heard they work pretty well once a data base of runs has been entered. I'll be needing an ET predictor soon and probably will buy one or the other.
I have been using the hand held PerformAire for 2 years now. You need to get about 20 runs in and don't put any bad runs in,it will really be inaccurate. Always write everything down in your log book as well for reference. Follow the instructions and it works well. I have only used this unit and not tried any others. Works well for me. Good Luck, Dan
If you want your vehicles on our web site. Now is a good time to email me with your photos and some information about your ride. Check out our site by copy and pasting on the link at the bottom of this post into your browser. Also, If you guys that are already on there have updates, let me know. I haven't worked on the site in a long time, but since I have a broken foot I guess it's a good time to catch up. Send photos and info to spookytruck@yahoo.com.
Wes Adams FORD428CJ
Built Ford Tuff With Good Ford Stuff
03 F-250 Crew Cab 4x4 6.0 and 35's
64 Falcon 428FE
55 FORD Truck 4-link Rides on air with 428FE
2000 Yamaha V-MAX VMOA#4277
2000 Yamaha 700 Mountain Max
2001 Polaris 600 Edge X
2001 Polaris 500 SP
Hello all,I have been lurking here for quite a while but this is my first post,any input from this wealth of knowledge will be greatly appreciated.I am building a 428 and just got my heads back from the machine shop yesterday.I am running the smaller Crane hydraulic roller cam and I am going to go with the Erson roller rockers.The cam is a 222/228 @.050 and the lift is 590/607.I gave the machine shop the cam card and told them to order bare castings and separate springs/valves.They ordered complete heads and did a valve job/set spring pressures.My question,everyone I have talked to said the Edelbrock spings/valves are no good including the Edelbock specs.I called Edelbrock and the guy said that the springs are within spec but maxed out and he would not RECOMMEND using this setup but,it would work.Any thoughts or experiences?What could go wrong?What should I do?The motor is stock displacement,10.5-1 comp.Holley 750 carb,Performer RPM manifold going into a 75 F250 4x4 for a street/strip use.I poured a ton of money into the engine and I am going to show it NO MERCY!Sorry for the long post.
The Springs that come on the Eld Heads are fine for a RV cam or small Hyd , but not enough for ANY Roller, Most Rollers start out at 160+ lbs on the seat ( Hyd Rollers ) and 500+ over the nose, if your machine shop said they were ok , find another one, Valvetrain falures easaly take out an entire engine!! Nuff said
You could get by with just changing the intake valve springs, since the exhaust valves are 20 percent smaller diameter and therefore lighter. Maybe just adding a damper to the intakes would give you enough closed pressure.
1912 Model T Ford touring Salmon (ugh!)
1913 Model T Ford Touring original Black paint
1915 Model T Ford Roadster Black
1915 Model T Ford touring Black of course!
1967 Cougar GT 390 Cardinal Red / Black
1968 Cougar GTE 427 Augusta Green / Saddle
http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/15029/50071-2
I ran them for 25000 miles and they still tested @ 120 pounds closed / 330 pounds @ .600". Plenty for a 282S, not enough for a roller cam which has heavier lifters, thus more inertia, requiring stiffer springs. Also the Edelbrock springs will coil bind at maybe .620" so you don't want to go much over .570" lift.
1912 Model T Ford touring Salmon (ugh!)
1913 Model T Ford Touring original Black paint
1915 Model T Ford Roadster Black
1915 Model T Ford touring Black of course!
1967 Cougar GT 390 Cardinal Red / Black
1968 Cougar GTE 427 Augusta Green / Saddle
http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/15029/50071-2
If you told them specifically to order bare heads so you could get better parts (like springs) and they got complete assembled heads and then dinged you for a valve job, without talking to you about it, that's enough reason to change shops
Adrian I have been runnng the same camshaft for 3 years. I am a big fan of Beehive springs. and lighter valve trains. I also have Erson rockers are very happy with them. My specs for pressure is 132 seat and 385 open. This is with titanium top parts. I autocross and road race the car. The only down side I have is a dip in the rpms at 5,800. The cam used to go to 6,200 with stock rockers(adjustables) It does push through this spot to max of 6,200. I run the BBC 26120# spring from comp. PAC sells a strong spring at I am looking at next. Another 40# of open pressure. This should remove the float issue in the motor.Have to remember that the hydro lifters and ersdon rockers are heavier that stock parts. I also run only a .015" plunger depth to help lifter pump up kept to a min and protect the valve/piston clearance. I do recomend that you run a HVHP oil pump with an #80 spring in it and have 30 psi at idle and 60-75 and 2,500 rpms for safe numbers if you are going to abuse this motor. Rick L.
From the exhaust manifolds back would be custom fitted 3 inch pipes (w/X-over) to some Magnaflow muffs and 2.5 inch to the bumper. Workable or no??? I have heard that Sanderson makes a nice shorty set of block huggers for the low port heads??? Not sure which to persue. Guess it will boil down to price... as both should flow well. Max RPM 6000 burts on this 390. Maybe 410 hp 450 tq at the flywheel.
I had a 1968 XL with a 428. I used the Hooker Super Comps. Very tight fit against the Power steering hoses.
You either install the motor with the headers in the frame or you jack the front end of the car up several feet to get the clearance to put them in. Did both.
Never did get them to seal well, bolts are a pain etc.
on the dyno were 469.9 @ 5500 rpm's. Torque was 437. At 3400, torque showed 499.9. I'm really pleased with how the 445 Prison Break turned out. This should make the Gal a little spunky huh. I'll post some cam specs when I get them. Going to pick it up on Wed. Don
1912 Model T Ford touring Salmon (ugh!)
1913 Model T Ford Touring original Black paint
1915 Model T Ford Roadster Black
1915 Model T Ford touring Black of course!
1967 Cougar GT 390 Cardinal Red / Black
1968 Cougar GTE 427 Augusta Green / Saddle
http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/15029/50071-2
Wes Adams FORD428CJ
Built Ford Tuff With Good Ford Stuff
03 F-250 Crew Cab 4x4 6.0 and 35's
64 Falcon 428FE
55 FORD Truck 4-link Rides on air with 428FE
2000 Yamaha V-MAX VMOA#4277
2000 Yamaha 700 Mountain Max
2001 Polaris 600 Edge X
2001 Polaris 500 SP
Driving up the hill on the way home to see this from the other side...
I know I live in a tinderbox but it's still a little nerve wracking all the same. I'm just glad there was no structural damage to ours or the neighbors. I believe it was started by the construction on the street below us.
Long story short, I was coming home from a quick run to Target saw plumes of smoke coming from my neighbor hood. Hurried home to find that it started at the next door neighbor's and went the other way, missed the property line by 20 feet or so. Like I said, no damage but scary non the less. Especially for the hospice/retirement home next door!
Just had to share the fun.
SLT
`67 F100 Custom Cab
Off to AZ to tear apart a `73 for discs and throw the 360 & T18 in.
Anyone want to help build a 390 or a 410 from a couple of blocks worth of random parts?
We do call our little plot Sanford and Sons On The Hill for a reason!
Actually, it's kinda hilarious. The city I'm in is kinda confused on whether or not it's going to the yuppies or staying stodgy (which I'm all for). It's still funny to see the looks on people's faces when we tell them about the deer, the coyotes, the raccoons, and the occasional bobcat. All that within 20 minutes of LA downtown and Anaheim. There really is a reason I put up with "The Tinderbox Effect".
SLT
`67 F100 Custom Cab
Off to AZ to tear apart a `73 for discs and throw the 360 & T18 in.
Anyone want to help build a 390 or a 410 from a couple of blocks worth of random parts?
I need a set of rockers to put my Mach 1 back to a stock hydraulic set up, I have a like brand new set from an FT, they look the same to me but is there anything I'm unaware of before I put them on?
I just don't want the hassle, other than a little bit of a cam the engine is a stock GT 390. I don't really see any advantage , it's a show quality car I don't want to be laying on the fenders trying to adjust something that I could avoid.
I was about to throw away , you can have thm for the shipping,but before you change the adjustables were worth a 10th in the 1/4 on my mustang , way back when I ran it in near stock condition and I adjusted them once about every 5 years ( they don't move unless there is a cam problem ) I als read your post below, I would be glad to help get your valves adjusted , its easy , but to each his own the offers stands
This message has been edited by Faron on Nov 23, 2009 9:48 PM This message has been edited by Faron on Nov 23, 2009 9:19 PM
OK........getting ready for the Turkey Run. I would like to know if there are any Edelbrock heads that would fit a 352. Hopefully I can find a deal. I don't want to pull the motor so notching the cylinders isn't in my plans. I'm just planning on redoing the top end.
Can anyone give me some feedback on how dependable a standard 390 is with a .030 (possibly .040) bore? Would it still be reliable and able to handle some street abuse?
Also, the crank shaft is already 10-10 and I'm being told it will need another .010 to make it a 20-20. How reliable would this be as well?
Everything I have read indicates that a standard 4.050 bore 390 block can go to .030 over. I personally would try to go the lowest over bore possible to maintain strength. I went .030 over on my 390, and haven't had any problems. Others on here can probably be more specific.
Haven't started the Cyclone for a couple weeks, got a great day yesterday, so why not take it out. It turned over, no problem but just refused to fire. Pulled the #1 plug wire, grounded it to the block and got a spark, but pretty weak? Gave the front carb shot of carb cleaner and it fired right up? I am running the original distributor, fresh points at 12mm (?), new autolite plugs set at .35, good plug wires, 12* initial.
The additional voltage from the jumper may have started the car but if you tried to start the car first with a week battery that was your problem.......joe
is the 12 volt start wire on your solenoid? maybe it fell off? if it is connected and still won't start run a wire from the + on your battery to the + on the coil, try to start the motor. if it starts replace the solenoid. disconnect the wire quickly so you do not burn your points.
The points are at .016, brain fart! I did not jump the car to start, but did notice the starter wasn't turning over the engine quite as fast as usual. Battery sounds logical place to start, will check it today!
I just started my 390 for inital break in and the push rod jumped out from under one of my rockers within the first minute. these are the stock adjustable ones ford used on solid tappet style engines. I'm sure I didn't put it together like that so what might cause it? I set them up with no slack on TDC then 3/4 of a turn more. I'm running a new 270 Isky with hydraulic lifters.
I don't like the angle the push rod comes into the rocker at but I don't see where there's anything you can do about it. maybe I should just put the original stock hydraulic ones back on and forget it?
Are you sure you are using the shorter one for dog bone type and not the longer ones for the deep shell type?I can't see how it would matter as far as angle if they are the correct shorter ones.
If you have those spring spacers on the rockershafts I would replace them with solid spacers. I usually adjust the preload in the firing order of the engine starting with number 1 cylinder
That would be close but you shod do them like a solid lifter cam.Adjust the intake as the exhaust starts to open and the exhaust as the intake starts to close.Crane cams gives this and I have done it for a day or two.
I was in a Pantera years ago after a engine rebuild
November 23 2009, 3:07 PM
and the poles looked like a picket fence at 150mph when I thought the car in front of me on the freeway was stopped,got on the brakes quick when I glanced at the speedo.My friend with me almost messed his pants.
This message has been edited by x4rdtech on Nov 23, 2009 3:10 PM
I thought in the Rocket Engine Test it'd blow the sand away
November 23 2009, 2:28 PM
and scoop out a trench ....just smoked the ground from heat. Never thought a rocket blast would be so tight, perhaps out of camera view it moved ground
This message has been edited by qikbbstang on Nov 23, 2009 2:29 PM
Graham, they have a new place other than Black Rock
November 23 2009, 4:56 PM
Graham
Black Rock has gottin so bad with no flooding over the last four years.There now going to run at Eureka County about 225 miles east of Reno Diamond Valley is a 15-mile-long playa relatively pristine. NAE plans are to make the record runs July 4th 2010
My Dad and Mom grew up with Criag Breedlove,my Dad help him with SOA Sonic I (before the tail fin went on) up tell I came along and Dad had to get a real job.
Dad tells stories about being huddled down in the shop during the Watts riots armed to the teeth....
Midnight runs in Craigs Mercury PU with the super charger.....
Going to AZ to pick up surplus jet engines...
Rebuilbing the same in the garage....
Scaring the hell out of the GE test cell operator when he noticed the bolts holding the engine hot section together where all wroung...
That is neat your Mom and Dad grew up with Craig amazing person. I met Crag Breedlove in 1994 through Dennis Craig and Pete Ogdon they both built the chassis for SOA Sonic Arrow. It was neat seeing the car built in Rio Vista over the years before the 96 crash than engine trouble in 97 the car is for sale at four Million dollars Peggy Fossett has full ownership of it now after Steve Fossett died
the input bearing and gear. It appears that whatever gets past the bearing just drains right back out of the drain hole below the bearing into the case anyway. Was I just lucky that I never had problems?
I just looked through my 1960-64 Autolite parts/accessories book and some models are shown with them and some without, even from the same manufacturer. No apparent reason.
Hollis Franks
Black 63 1/2 XL R Code
Gray 65 289 Falcon Ranchero
This message has been edited by hfranks on Nov 23, 2009 12:14 PM
lets talk about Ford transmissions : Your Ford built 3 spds thru apx. 1956 did not have a seal in thr front bearing retainer...they used a maindrive slinger & the inside of the retainer tube had a coarse looking thread to help screw oil back to the drain hole @ the front bearing..1957 the Ford & Borg Warner front retainers had maindrive input seals...but they still used the oil slingers & no screw threads inside the retainers.Borg warner continued this practice thru the super T10 . Ford Toploader 3 & 4 spds no oil slingers just a maindrive seal.......Now if the maindrive was designed for a oilslinger you must use it ...First the slinger then bearing is pressed on it needs that thickness so the snap ring & or snap ring retainer washer in the stack are a tight fit...Never use sealed ball bearings in a stick transmission...let the oil flow in & out..............
Mike
PS : the GM Muncies never used a front seal !!!! they never learned !!!
Do 428 service blocks have the 428 in the bottom of the water Jackets? I have seen two that had the ribs on the side of the block and were supposed to be service blocks but no 428 in the water jackets and no C on the back. Any one? Thanks Jerry
Jerry....I've had several 428CJ "service" blocks. Some with ribs others without. Some had the sand scratch C,CX,CI,I,CXX on the back others didn't but all had the 428 somewhere in the water jacket. I currently have one out in the shop with no C on the back but has the 428 behind the center frost plug dated with a '74 casting. Mine still has 352 ont he front corner but i have heard of others that have 105 on the front but i have never owned one to see if those have 428 in the water jacket. It's not always behind the center frost plug hole either in my experience, it has also been in the ends looking through the "long" coolant passage in the deck of the block......John
I second those statements. I have had over 70 of them in the past 4 years and all that were legitimate 428s had the 428 cast in the center water jackets. Some had 427 side oiler casting bosses, some had external ribs, some had the same C,CX,CI, and other sand scratches. I did have a couple of reverse 105 390 blocks that had 428 thick cylinder walls but did not have 428 cast in the water jackets. All had webbed mains and 1UB crankshafts. None were ever 428s without the 428 cast inside the water jackets. FWIW...
Here is a copy of an email I sent to a customer looking for info on this subject. Hope the Forum finds it interesting.
After doing this for a LONG time, I've seen quite a few of these Blocks. Here is what I have found.
"I saw there was a little snippet about this on the FE Forum.
The Block that that provided the base for the ShortBlock build we are talking about is an 'A' Block. Has an 'A' sandscratch into the back. Means it was either a 65-67 T-Bird, Police Interceptor or, in some cases, 67 Shelby GT 500 Block.
CJ 'Production' Blocks normally have a 'C' sandscratch in them, BUT NOT ALWAYS.
Production refers to engines being built to install in a car on the CJ production line(68-70). All other 428 Blocks are known as 'Service Blocks', and were supplied thru Ford's Parts division for over the counter and warranty use. Some of these are cast from 68-70, but most were done from 70-74 to supply the Parts Division, as well as warranty, remanufacture division, and Industrial division.
Most have Ribs, all have 3 finger Main Bearing supports, some have 'C', CI' or 'CX' sandscratch's, BUT NOT ALL, and most have 428 cast SOMEWHERE in the cylinder water jacket casting, BUT NOT ALL. Some of the 428 water jacket casting marks are so low, or in such bad position you can't really make them out.
Any block that is questionable should be sonic checked to be sure. I figure if a Block that is unmarked, from 1970 something, that has been run at std 428 size, doesn't have the Large Truck Distributor Bushing Hole, and has .160" + left in the Cylinder Walls is a 428 Block, regardless of markings.
Love all the stroker FE stuff, but it got me thinking, who's got/seen potent 390 builds running on pump gas and what was the combination?
I've heard of some potent 390 stock class cars running in NHRA. Of course, those are not pump gas, but would think toned down to pump gas specs would make a strong street car.
I don't know how potent you are talking about but my 69 Torino fastback runs the quarter mile in 11.83 @115+ on pump gas. It is driven on the street and to the track and back which is milan which is a 100 mile round trip for me. basically I am running edelbrock heads and intake and a comp cams solid lifter cam. I am running 26" by 8.5 inch wide slicks with a 3.70 rear end gear through a c-6 trans whos only modificatio is shift kit. some may not think so but I think this is pretty good
while not near as fast as Rich's , it would run 12.50 in a 63 fairlane at 108 mph , the car weighed 3389 and I was 240 at the time (195 now )for a total of roughly 3650 pounds ....
10 to 1 compression with C1AE heads , home port job 2.10 intake and 1.65 exhaust , factory tri-power , Lunati cam with 559/572 lift and 237/247 at .050 solid lifter , C-6 with Coan 3500rpm 10 inch converter , 4.56 gear and Crites headers ..... with a 4500 converter , Comp 306S cam and Edelbrock RPM manifold woulda/shoulda/coulda been low 12.0's maybe
When I first got the Fairmont running, in 1988, I ran it with a .030" over 390 that I have previously used in my steet/strip 64 Falcon. It had Speed Pro pistons, a "tooo big" Comp Cams solid flat tappet cam, stock iron C8OE-N CJ heads, a ported Streetmaster with a Holley 780 vac sec carb, a Mallory YL dual point dist, and A C6, with a 4200 RPM convertor. Weighing 3200 lbs, with 4.5 gears, it ran a best of 11.42@119 mph, I later added a NOS 175HP nitrous kit, which knocked the numbers down to a best of 10.28@131 MPH, but all the main webbing on the "105" 390 block eventually tore out, breaking the crank in 5 pieces. After that, I gave up on nitrous, & built a 428, pretty much identical to the same engine currently in the car.
428 powered Fairmont drag car, Best ET:10.03@132.11MPH, best 60 ft: 1.29
59 Meteor 2 dr. sedan 332, Ford O Matic
74 F350 ramp truck 390 4speed
While not as potent as some of the responses, I have been running a modified 390 GT in a 67 Mustang fastback as I built it 32 years ago. In short: Short block has forged flat top pistons and Police Interceptor rods, big oil pump and a windage tray. Heads are mildly ported with emphasis on the pocket area. Stainless valves and double springs. Old Lunati solid 280/290 Duration and .528 lift, adjustable rockers and solid spacers. Sidewinder intake and old 780 Vacuum secondary carb. Recurved stock distributor, pertronix ignitor. It runs fine on 93 octane at 36 degree total timing, and has run mid 12's crippled by a close ratio top loader, with 3.91 gears in the rear. The only thing I did over the years is adjust the valves (rarely) and play with the carb jetting and such. It has never been apart. Recently I did add an MSD Digital 6 box. I estimate 425 HP, real gutsy mid range.
For what its worth there was a magazine build a few years ago, I think it was a Hot Rod/Gessford machine build. They built a basic 390 that (by my recollection) really was only a basic build with Edel. heads and manifold and a modest hydraulic roller that made 500 hp on pump gas. I recall thinking a set of roller tipped rockers would have been a good addition due to the lift range they were in, otherwise a pretty nice street and strip combination.
Sitting above it all its so mild you ( and reliable ) its almost funny , It Origonally had 428cj heads that, , but in 2002 I put Elds on , Crane Soplid Cam 238/248 @.050 on 114 , CJ oil pump , stock Rods , Crank , and its a garden variaty Block ( no good webbing ) it has main and head studs , Good machine work , the most expensive parts were the pistons and pins ( Venolia that I cant say enough good things about ) although the guy I orderd them from was a Idiot ( sent me 428 stroke pin location instead of the 3.78 390 and my Comp is way lower than I wanted , still it has run a bunch of 10.90 passes @ 127 MPH in my 68 @ 3650+ pounds, Thats 500-600 hp , on 92 octane ( when I race and loves 87 on the street ) except for the Blower the Engine could be built for less than 4000 in todays money!
Who makes the best direct bolt in Radiator for the 63 Galaxie. I want a direct fit so I can use the original Fan shroud. I will be at 650 HP so do I need 1 1/4 dual tube or 1 1/2 tube
Thanks
I thought I read here that a date code with 2 dots under the first digit would indicate a 'second decade' casting. For example a CA8E 9430 A exhaust manifold with a date code 2J14 with two dots under the '2' would mean a 1972 casting date. Am I just confused? or did the dots have something to do with which shift cast the part? It's hell having CRS !
I know it's been mentioned in the past but I have a friend that right now "Up to his Ass in Gators" by accidentally overfilling a block.
Muratic Acid soak did nothing to it.
Re: Been There Done That? Has anyone successfully removed Hard Block?
November 23 2009, 9:01 AM
I've had some success removing epoxy filler, but not sure what hard block is made of. If it's epoxy based, your buddy can order some epoxy stripper from Miller-Stephenson (they're on the net; can find them with a Google search) and that should work.
FYI - I've gone through almost three gallons of the epoxy stripper ($65/gallon?) and I'm still not done removing the "tall fill" from my 427.
Good luck,
Scott
67 Fairlane 500 hdtp, C4, 9", 800 hp 514
66 Fairlane GT convt, toploader, 9", built 428
The only thing I have heard of that works was an article I read where a machine shop used sonic waves to break it up.Sounded expensive because of the necessary equipment used.
to visit this site for a while. Broke my ankle and lacerated a kidney. My 2001 Victory V92C has about $4,500 damage, but will be repaired. It has not been a good year for Cecile and me. Mom passed away on October 9th, my first wife passed away September 5th, two of my best friends passed away since August and now this. A yellow VW Jetta driver on his cell phone coming toward me crossed the center line while I was in a downhill left hand curve and I quickly ran out of road. Yep! He never stopped. Next year has to be better.
Been riding since I was 16. This was my first time down with injuries.
November 23 2009, 7:58 AM
Bike insurance doesn't cover personal injury. At 63 years of age, I've seen many hurt worse playing football with all kinds of pads and they aren't traveling 40mph. I always wear a helmet and leathers.
As a fellow rider I'm glad you were all geared up. Yeah those texting, cell phone-jabbing cagers are everywhere. The 140dB air horn on my bike comes in handy more times than I'd like.
Here in Southern California we have epic mountain roads. I've learned that you have to stay away on the weekends. The idiots come out in droves to show off. I've been greeted at blind corners by oncoming cars racing two-abreast and ricky racer sport bikers dragging knees going wide into my lane. It's so much better on a quiet weekday morning!
Get back on that horse quickly. Wishing you another few decades of safe riding!
Could have been much worse, you sound like a guy who will be back on it asap!!
I got my first bike, a 1978 Honda 750CBFF at 17 and have been down at least once on all of mine. Almost always due to this very type of scenario. I remember the words of the Pawn Shop owner when paying for the 750CB "Kid your going to go down on this bike, everybody goes down sooner or later. If you don't die, YOU AINT GOING TO DIE ON A BIKE. Stand it up and get back on the MF", Enjoy it!!
that really sux to hear about this. I rode my 1100 Shadow yesterday for the last time this year. Weather isn't going to hold out much more, so I'm done.
I've had a few close calls in the last couple years, but luckily the ONLY bad news was when this happened:
[IMG][/IMG]
If the weather hadn't been dreary, I would have been on the bike!! Things would have turned out a lot worse.
LarryK
1964 Galaxie 2dr 390/6-71/4spd
1964 Country Sedan Wagon 428/5spd
1969 F100 428/4spd
1967 F100 352/now a 4 spd!
1959 B Model Mack
Re: O/T Wrecked my motorcycle, so I guess I'll have time
November 23 2009, 10:45 AM
Hey Berry, you should be xcoverd under your uninsured motorist coverage since it was caused by a "phantom motorist". Check with someone other than you insurance agent !
heal fast,
Byron
This message has been edited by bwrinkle on Nov 23, 2009 10:46 AM
May 31st 2005. After 47 Years of Riding, I Went Down when a DD made a
November 23 2009, 10:48 AM
u turn from the shoulder of the road as I was passing doing 45 mph in a 50 mph zone. I was blind sided and was launched 125' opposite shoulder. Said he never saw me.
Feel blessed that you are still alive to tell the story!
I spent a year in Moss McGee REHAB and the sccident has left me disabled. Seeing the courage that other people had that were worse off than me really motivated me to bounce back. I can no longer ride but wish I could.
Listen to your doctors and take REHAB seriously.
Here is what I lost that hurt me the most:
1967 Cougar 12.0 Street Car (fun car)
1967 Mustang S Code FB(22 year restoration)
1968 Mustang GT 350 (next to restore)
1964 Comet AFX 427 (progress halted)
1966 Comet 428 Drag Car (dialing in)
That was one pretty Harley. My favorite color scheme.
November 23 2009, 1:10 PM
Sorry for your pain and loss. I'll be alright and should be back in the saddle soon after Christmas. Darn! It's been 47 years for me too. 1962-2009. Strange.
It's six to one and a half pound to the other. sic.
November 23 2009, 1:24 PM
Depends on how heavily they are baffled. On a V-twin there seems to be more bottom end torque with separate pipes, but on a multi cylinder motorcycle it usually works better with the pipes joined three into one, four into two, or six into two, or three.
Sorry to hear about the accident. I wish you a speedy recovery! Maybe some local camera's picked up the car? Sucks getting hurt, but you're lucky you weren't killed.
rural area in the hills of PA. No cameras around. Just after noon. About 12:15 PM. The ironic part was I was working overtime to make extra money to get Spooky back on the street. By the time I get back to work, the overtime will be over. Life sux sometimes, but I will get through it.
Barry,
Hope you heal or mend soon. It isn't always the car drivers that are at fault. In 1999 I was at a National Cushman scooter meet in Springfield, Mo. Went on a ride on Route 66 and was rear ended by another scooter rider. I went down going less than 30 mph. Glad I had the helmet on but sliding down the pavement counting the layer of skin peeling off aren't fun. I ride a Harley Super Glide today and all of the gear, helmet, jacket and gloves.
Ride safe,
that went with me back then.He laid down his 50th anniversary Sportster,broke almost every bone in his body two months ago.Wondered why I hadn't heard from him.His fault he says as he went around a turn too fast and locked up the front wheel.Went to Stanford to get put back together and is now in a rehab center.So you are real lucky compared to him but still hope you get better soon.Wow you bikers,I just don't get it.
soon. I've been riding since 66' and been down a few times. You just can't ever take the cagers actions for granted. There is no denying it's dangerous out there on a bike, but to me it's always been worth the risk. Mike
QMD has a nice photo gallery Thursday through Sunday lots of Fords doing battle for the big money. Anyone have friends racing in this event? I hope good friend Bret Williamson did good with the Jordon Bros. built engine in the Folsom Flash
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