How to apply waterlox to a gunstock
Waterlox is in my opinion the best of the oil finishes. It is easy to apply, waterproof, good looking and easy to repair. It is a tung oil/phenic resin mix that gives you the traditional oil look with superb water resistance that oils such as linseed oil, basic tung oil, RLO, and most other oils do not. It is even being used on the floors of the UAE Embassy in Washington, DC.
After prep sanding your stock (also can be applied over other oil finishes) brush on the Waterlox keeping the wood moist so that it soaks into the wood (Waterlox had the deepest penetration off all the wiping finishes as tested by Fine Woodworking). After about 5 min. wipe the oil off of the wood with a no lint cotton cloth wiping with the grain. On the first coat keep an eye out for "bleed out" which is when finish that was absorbed into the wood pores bleeds back out leaving little fisheyes around each pore. One reason for this can be putting the stock in sunlight or heat which expands air trapped in the wood and forces undried finish back out in front of it. It is also not recommended to "force" dry finishes by adding heat, UV light etc. If you do get some bleed out wipe them off with a cotton cloth dampened with some Waterlox oil. Let sit over night.
Next day you will find that it has dried and is ready for a little prep work
1. if there is fisheye bleed out steel wool them off with some 0000 steelwool.
2. give the entire piece a light steelwooling to get rid of any dust nibs or surface oddities
3. wipe it with a no lint cotton rag to get rid of any dust
Second coat can be applied the same as the first with a brush, let it sit on the stock for about 5 min. (moisten any dry spots that are drawing in finish) and then wipe off with a moistened (with Waterlox) cotton cloth. Let sit over night.
Prep if needed taking off any dust nibs with some steel wool.
For the 3rd coat you can wet sand with some 600grt. or better if you want during the application of the coat of oil and skim wipe it just as you would with other oils to fill the pores but in this write up it will not be covered/only the basic coating will.
Continue with other coats but instead of brushing it on, just wipe it on with a moistened cloth (moistened with Waterlox) till it has a "SHINE" look. This way a thin layer will be evenly applied without leaving lap marks. Say every 3 coats give a light steelwooling if needed.
I like to use the gloss even when a satin finish is wanted. to get the satin finish on a gloss steelwool (after waiting 7 days for full hardness) the stock with the grain with some good 0000 steelwool. I do not like the synthetic pads which are impregnated with grit and give a diff. look. If you want a semi satin finish rub the steelwool pad in some Kiwi Shoe wax of matching color to the stock and then rub out. The wax lubes the steelwood and reduces it's cutting action giving a semi satin finish.
It is an easy finish that gives great results. Here is there web site and a few pictures of some harsh uses of waterlox.
https://www.waterlox.com/default.aspx
