I got this one Friday. CT airguns had a couple re-manufactured Marauders. This one is .25cal. I intended to convert it to left handed operation and I think there is a little confusion on this subject. In doing a little research, I found a couple responses on this and other forums that alluded to the fact the receiver just needed to be notched on the opposite side to make this work. This couldn't be farther from the truth. It is, in reality, a lot more involved than that. So having just done it, I thought I might throw up a how to and help out another southpaw somewhere. Still, This isn't a beginner project, I needed a Bridgeport mill and a tig welder to get this done. So first the finished project:
The first step was to indeed, notch the receiver. I set the head of the Mill way over till I could match the angle of the original bolt inlet with the receiver in the mill vice. Once I had the angle right, I turned the receiver around 180, lined up on the previous cut, and cut it to the same depth. Turned out real well in my case. I was left with a mirror image cut on the right side.
From there, I took the receiver, slid the bolt in and screwed the bolt latch in from the opposite side and was presented with what the real problem with this is. The screw hole for the bolt latch is at a bit of a weird angle to the bolt handle so just flipping the bolt left handed will not work! The bolt does not time correctly, so that the bolt will not close and latch the same before the bolt hits the rear end cap. The fully open bolt position is also way low with this setup. I spent a good hour trying to forge and shape the bolt handle up so it would time properly before it hit the endcap and the reality is it cannot be done. It cannot be bent and shaped enough to make up the difference. So the only thing left to do, (and where I should have started out with) is just cutting the bolt handle off and welding on a new one in the proper position. The new position is probably 25 degrees different. This is the only way to get the bolt to operate exactly the same, but in mirror image as the original righty setup. I welded a talley bolt handle on mine which I really like. I've used a bunch of them and for the price they're great. I cut the old handle off, stuck the bolt in the receiver, fully closed it to the left side, drew out some lines where I wanted the bolt to go and removed the bolt for welding. Here it is being prepared below. I elected to set up the bolt with some sweep for my preference. Then the bolt is shaped and polished.
The next step after welding the bolt on, was to notch the tube on the opposite side so the bolt latch would operate properly. It will not clear the tube other wise. The picture is illustrative here. The slot in the tube is show in the picture. The original configuration the slot was a backwards "p" I milled the same notch to the configuration shown and fit and welded a piece of steel in the old notch(I highlighted where the original notch was with sharpie) so the bolt only opens to the proper place. If you didn't fill it in, the bolt latch could open too far and catch in the old notch. You would have to open the bolt just far enough or it would've gotten stuck.
The next step was to weld up the nose of the bolt and re-cut the channel in it. This is another reason just flipping the bolt will not work. If you just insert the bolt in another position, the recess in the bolt face will actually not be towards the transfer port and the bolt will block the transfer port. My solution was to weld it up and re-cut it in the the new, proper position. Also in the same picture you can see the flat that had to be milled across the threaded hole for the bolt latch. If you don't do this, the bolt latch screw will sit too far down and not clear the face of the hammer.
Then the dimple had to be located and cut for the detent that holds the bolt closed to work. In the picture you can see the old one and the new one. If you didn't do this your bolt would just flop around closed. I should also point out my bolt was hardened good and hard and HSS tooling wouldn't touch it. Carbide tooling is required.
The last step for me was to hot salt blue the bolt and put it all together. Works exactly like it should in true mirror. I'm very pleased with how this turned out even though it turned out to be kind of involved. I really enjoy making things more left handed friendly. I did an rws 850 also if anyone is interestedhttp://www.network54.com/Forum/583200/thread/1215401243/Lefty+850
I though I would post this on yellow for general interest, but mods move it over to the the cros/benji forum if needed. Feel free to contact me if you do this for yourself and have questions. I have zero desire to do this for other people, so please don't e-mail me and ask me to do this for you. Enjoy.