HW55 Tune...May 19 2017 at 5:35 PM
|ggronke (Login ggronke)|
I have a small number of different lubes for tuning my HW55 (1961-ish model), including: Dry Moly powder. Beeman Metal-to-Metal. Macarri Moly Paste. Macarri Clear Tar. Beeman White Lube Paste. Feinwerkbau thin, white Metal grease in the skinny tube. Now, I also have a small amount of Vortek Syn grease for their tune kit which is going in, and I just purchased that unreasonably expensive Superlube from Amazon(is that stuff made of gold or something?).
I have been very carefully de-burring & prepping everything. I even used the YouTube video for taking apart & cleaning the Rekord trigger unit. Interesting...those little springs can really piss you off %$*@! (after the video I calmed down). I noticed the older Rekord in this 55 has a small pin across the top, which blocks the long end of the big sear lever from protruding when the whole trigger module is removed. The newer Rekord units DO protrude when removed. Is this just because it's old, or do all 55's Rekords have this pin going across? (I suppose it's not that important?)
Anyway - I was curious about using the magical Superlube. The Vortek HW55-PG2-L tuning kit will be used with its' own syn-lube for the power plant. Since Superlube does not burn, I'm thinking of trying this in the comp chamber, outside of piston, whole interior of receiver tube. Because it STAYS PUT and should be super-slick, I'm thinking all trigger sear parts, including the highest pressure points under mainspring tension. Mistake?
One thing I tried in the past after deburring, is I lightly buffed some powdered Moly on the interior of the receiver tube(EVERYTHING inside the tube), and rubbed up the outside of the piston & seal, then put a very thin coating of Moly paste on all those same areas(That is one smooth shooting R7 .20 cal!)
Would a thin layer of Superlube in place of the Moly paste, be as good or better after the buffing, or skip those Moly steps in the receiver tube altogether, and just clean and use Superlube? Hmmm...
Another thing about installing the Vortek PG2 tune kit - This tune kit is supposed to act like a rotational bearing to eliminate that spring torque & smooth out the shot cycle. Is this suppose to mean free rotation at both ends of the spring? If so, I believe the performance for the PG2 kit would be compromised some if each end is not flat. I noticed where the spring top hat seats inside the piston, there's a fair sized burr on the surface. It doesn't look like it's sharp, more like a tiny ridge of bumps on one side, about halfway between the spring rod and the inside piston wall, and I can't get to it. I noticed a mark starting on the top hat just from putting a hand pressure load on it while rotating. I know there is only so much room to shim something like this, otherwise the gun won't cock. I was wondering where I can get a very thin washer of the same material(or softer) as the plastic used in the PG2 kit(Home Depot?Lowes?). That way, the burr can dig its' way into the plastic washer, the opposite side would then be flat, to be lubed & give the top hat something it can rotate on. Steel isn't going to lay flat on that bump, but I'm thinking the right plastic can. Anyone have a similar experience with this issue?
All comments welcome...
|This message has been edited by ggronke on May 19, 2017 5:35 PM|