The first one, tested at the lowest possible setting.
The rifle handle will not close when I turn the power wheel further down, so this is the lowest possible setting that it will cock. Test done with Kodiacs, and starting at 190 BAR or 2750 psi.
Magazine 1; 1010-1007-1003-991-984-981-986-979 for an average of 992 and 45 pounds
Magazine 2; 962-959-953-955-934-924-948-939 for an average of 946 and 41 pounds
1. How can I get the handle to cock when turning the power wheel further down? Do you know what could be binding?
2. Are there some bright guy's that can explain how to open up this rifle to correct this situation. I Have the drawing but not the disassembly instructions.
PS; I have a second one> Bad luck; it was delivered at 190 bar, did not have the problem above, and I shot 4 magazines with it, and then tried to pump it up. No luck; the lower cylinder has a leak and it will start sissing at 1600 psi. The seals have set and now; no way to fill it up anymore. Is it easy to replace the front seals ? Again a request for the disassembly instructions please.
! ! ! ! , I bought 2, and they both seem to have a defect.
Thanks for reading, Tony
when the gun is first charged, you are supposed to cock it first or supposedly there will be too much pressure on the valve. I think you are going to have to empty the air some how and cock it then fill it. I have the career 300 and that was a very important part to my first charge. Call the place you bought it from and ask how to empty the gun. Or if it shoots, just keep dry firing it until it is empty. Good luck. Dont get too frustrated. These careers are awesome in power and accuracy. I love mine.BTW dry firing will not hurt this rifle.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/message/1104597527/Well+whatever+you+call+it.... http://www.chambersgunmakers.co.uk/Career/Career%20707%20Mk11%20plan.htm The thing is about Career's is they are not meant to be shooting light ammo. The are made specificly to shoot heavy Eunjin pellets. The Korean bore is over size compaired to a normal .22 and the .25's are actually .29 caliber. Getting the reciever off isn't too hard and once you get the forward and rear screws out you need to rock it a bit using the stock for leverage to get it loose. After that it's pretty straight forward and you can do alot using the diagrams I posted and the written instructions should help. There can be just a little dirt jammed in the seals which might keep the gun from pumping up. Cocking the gun before pumping is the way to pump them from empty. I have had my Career tore down nearly completely and it wasn't very hard to work on. I had to locktite the stem seal because it came unscrewed and I had to replace the breech seals. It's hard to say exactly what your problem might be without visual inspection.
are you certain it's the o-ring under the barrel bands?
June 5 2006, 12:49 PM
The fill port is a lot more likely. And exactly which model "707"? We have a rws 707 II .25, nine years and never a leak . Stick it in the tub (yiles not me yet, but it is a good test) or spray with soap and see exactly where the leak is. Call the dealer/person you got them from and see if they want to deal with it? And yes (if like ours) it is easy to replace the front o-rings, drain a l l air, remove thread protecter/fill post/two spanner nuts/maybe a screw on the front site(?) and use mallet to knock off barrel band around airtubes/baller.
Pyrymid may have the o-rings but no matter what the nice lady on the phone says, you need to speak with a "technition" if you order parts.
Yep, very sure it is the lower tube that is leaking at 5 o'clock.
I can not believe no-one has disassembly instructions on the net somewhere.
First rifle, I noticed the cocking problem immediately.
Second rifle could not be filled at the first try. It holds about 1200 psi, but will not go higher.
Once you get that reciever off and if you have a spanner wrench for the front spanner nuts it's very obvious how to get one apart.
The screws holding the valve in and the rest of the reciever together are very tight and they are easy to figure out. They don't have alot of parts to them but getting the valve out could be a chore because it's very tightly snugged in the bore. Most likely you won't have to tear it down to the valve to fix the problems that you describe.
You can make a spanner wrench for the front spanner "roundnuts" out of a copper fitting with a half circle cut out of it and a hole for an allen wrench. This is described in detail on the A-Teams webpage. I have looked before and not found detailed tear down instructions either so I feel your pain but I did it myself and it wasn't very difficult. The problems I fixed were simple ones and I only needed some new breech seals and locktite for the stem seal "which is brass with a tiny o-ring inside".
1st, the lever issue: my last 707 needed the power wheel up 1 click to cycle, not sure why yet, but it is not a problem--yours could be. You could also cock the gun, then lower the power to minimum and see if that clears it up.
2nd, there were some (not sure how many) 707's sent out with a slightly too thin o-ring up front (there are 4 sealing the end tubes under the endcaps) The factory got some that were slightly out of spec and notified me, but a few made it into guns before they discovered the problem.
I have the tools and parts to fix these, including all the o-rings. Who ever you bought it from should be able to repair under warranty, I know Pyramyd has all the stuff too. The job for the front seals is about a 10 minute job with a spanner wrench all you need to remove the front tube cover (sight housing). The wrench hooks into any hole in the 2 collars securing the tube cover onto the end of the air tubes and the 2 collars unscrew. The whole cover just pulls off and forward. Inspect the o-rings, remove them and replace them with new lubed ones.
MAC1 can fix that power wheel where it will turn down so low that no air comes out.
June 5 2006, 8:59 PM
And the gun will still cock. I don't know if he did mine, but he does them. Mine will go so low all you hear is the hammer spring, and it's not enough to move the knock open valve off it's seat. You still get the max highs like you have, but tons more low end adjustment.
The O-rings are easy to fix yourself if you can get the right size (metric and difficult to find) and right material, but if Eric can do it and get it covered under warranty I would sure let him have at it.
The power adjuster engages another part on the valve called the power wheel, which it moves either out or in on large course threads that are part of the valve itself. That exposes the valve stem more or less to the hammer "allows the hammer to push the valve open more or less depending on the adjustment".
You could put a thicker rubber bumper inside the power wheel and that would decrease the amount the hammer pushes in the valve stem causing a reduction in power but that would limit the power potential. That would work if you only wanted to shoot lighter pellets. But if you wanted to go back to shooting heavies then you would have too put the old hammer bumper back in.
Thanks for all the nice info.
Hey, those where new rifles, out of the box.
Ok, so I said; do it yourself or return. New rifles = waranty. So I returned them to the store.
There stood another Career 707, in .25 this time>
So I checked the cocking and guess what? It does not want to cock on low power either !!!
3 New Careers, I am stunned.
PS ; and my second one (the one with the air leak) cocks so beautifull, high, to low, back to high, back to low, briljant. But ther is no way it will hold air. LOL - NO LOL
I'm waiting what the Belgian importer is going to answer.
I'v got a Gamo shadowmatic at 14 pounds, a Gamo CFX at 16 pounds, a Diana 48 at 19 pounds, all with more then 4000 shots on them ( the matic is close to 7000)never had a problem, but I felt the springs getting weaker, so I wanted to upgrade.
Well, the rest is history, and hopefully future.
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