I have this rifle for sale. Consequently, a number of people e-mailed me, asking how I did this, so I thought I would post this up and maybe benefit someone else.
Here is what I did with my c1 trigger. It's worked out to have a much better feel than stock and be quite an improvement. To start out the c1 trigger is hardened pretty darn good. All machining was done with solid carbide endmills and drills. High speed steel will not even touch it, so save your self dulling you hss stuff if you attempt this and go straight to carbide.
The first picture shows the sear engagement screw. The trigger was set upside down in the vice of a full size bridgeport mill. And a drill bit was lined up next to the trigger to eyeball the line of the hole so it ended coming out in the proper surface of the trigger/sear engagement. Then an edgefinder was used to get a centerline and a 1/4 " solid carbide endmill was installed and plunge cut straight down into the back of the trigger lever.This gives the head of the screw clearance to fit flush and a flat surface to drill into. Without moving the mill the endmill was removed and replaced with a #31 carbide drill and the hole for the screw was drilled straight through. The hole was then tapped to 6-48 very carefully with plenty of tap magic. The hss taps would just barely cut into the trigger so I had to tap very carefully not to snap them off in the hole. Still I ended up dulling 3 taps in this project, but in the end they tapped perfectly, just go slow..
The next picture shows where the sear engagement adj. screw comes through and influences the sear. The overtravel screw is lined up to contact the bottom of the safety. It was drilled and tapped 6-48 also in the mill, but is much easier to line up correctly. Screws were then cut to length and installed. Springs were cut for the screws to keep tension on them to keep them from vibrating out under recoil.
The next picture shows the trigger in the gun and how the sear engagement screw keeps the sear from engaging so deeply with the trigger.
The last picture shows where I cut a hole in the trigger guard so the trigger can be adjusted while the gun is assembled. The overtravel screw will have to be adjusted with the stock off. I just fired it several times with the stock off into my trap till I got it right. The normal procedure is to screw it in till the gun will not fire, then back it off till it will, and then go another 1/8-1/4 turn more and test it. If there is not enough overtravel the gun will not cock. The last thing to do is to file clearance in the bottom of the safety for back the trigger. With the sear adjustment screw screwed in, it is like the trigger is already pulled a bit for you. Because of that, the back of the trigger is already risen up high enough to not allow the safety to be engaged. Some careful filing is required on the bottom of the safety to allow the safety to engage. Caution is needed here because if too much clearance is given the trigger can move enough to fire the gun with the safety on. Another consideration is that the trigger/safety relationship changes as the sear engagement is adjusted so I would suggest adjusting it to your liking first before attempting to modify the safety. Just one things you have to deal with adding features to a mechanism that was not originally designed for. Because of this, I opted not to modify the safety so I have more adjustment. But now the safety can not be engaged. Which is fine with me, I understand early c1's didn't come with one.
Finally, I realize this will be hard to accomplish if you do not have access to a milling machine and the proper tooling. I wouldn't attempt this myself in a drill press, but people have getting by with them for a long time. A word about safety. The trigger can now be adjusted to an unsafe level. Use some common sense when adjusting it and always keep control of the barrel, less you set it too light and the barrel flies during cocking. This is standard springer stuff. This post if for information only and I would hope anyone attempting this would first posses knowledge enough of the parts of this trigger and how it works to understand what the modifications do and why. Then have the honesty required to assess if you have skills required to do this correctly and more importantly, safely. If you try this and screw up your parts or put a hole in your wall, well, that's on you. I hope this was informative.
Nick F.
