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What would cause a new Crosman 2240 to leak CO2?

April 12 2009 at 11:41 AM

  (Login canblaster)
YF

I just bought the gun brand new and was on about the fifth or sixth powerlet. Then after loading a powerlet-plus-dab-of-Pellgunoil, after one shot it started spitting and "snowing" CO2 gas out the breech. Same symptom with several more powerlets--no leak upon installation of CO2 canister--perfectly normal and quiet--then after cocking and firing one shot, very fast leaking of CO2 begins and won't stop until all exhausted. The first time it happened, I had just switched from heavy Kodiak pellets to a lighter Crosman Premier hollow point. Now the symptom is here to stay with any kind of ammo.

I kinda bought this 2440 with the idea in mind of playing around with customizing it, so before taking it back for an exchange, I'm wondering if there is some simple adjustment I could make myself? Can anyone help me diagnose the problem and suggest a do-it-yourself fix (in the process of which I might possibly be able the learn a bit about the inner workings of this CO2 pistol)? --Thanks in advance for any advice. A source for a parts/blowup diagram of the 2240 would be helpful also.

 
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robert
(Login gubb33ps)
YF

Sounds like... (edit)

April 12 2009, 11:47 AM 

..a blown valve stem seal. Crosman is a simple system, and the most likely casue of the leak you describe is from that valve stem seal.

Not uncommon, the parts are cheap, and you can fix it yourself. Perrsonally, if possibe, I'll keep at least one spare entire valve assembly on hand ($15? $17?)...when I have a problem, will swap out the whole valve and fix the troubled one later on.

but if you can exchange it, then go right ahead...that's the easiset way to fix it.

Will try to hunt up at least a parts list for you.

Here you go. the part i suspect is leaking is marked 2250-016. Crosman responds to phone calls, but you may as well order a few more things to get some value from their shipping/packing charge.
http://www.crosman.com/pdf/manuals/crosman/2240/C2240-EVP.pdf


    
This message has been edited by gubb33ps on Apr 12, 2009 11:52 AM


 
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(Login canblaster)
YF

Thanks, Robert ... but ...

April 12 2009, 4:07 PM 

While I am eager get a new valve plus maybe a spare also, I was looking the gun over, and besides removing the grips, I don't know how to open up the gun to even look at the valve, let alone replace or fix it. I would continue this plea for help via email, but I figure if you're willing hold my hand thru this problem any further, there must be other guys who would benefit from your expertise. How's about it? Any way you could offer another pointer or two to help me do that R/R procedure on the valve?

 
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fa
(Login Fidel_in_PR)

check out this link, all you need is there

April 12 2009, 5:48 PM 

http://www.eddiecolwell.tzo.com/2240.html

"if there's a will, you will always find a way"

Fidel
Carolina,Puerto Rico
algarin@hotmail.com

 
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Pete
(Login PlinkerPete)
YC

Crosman disassembly and more

April 12 2009, 5:20 PM 

Type crosmancover into your MSN Search and you'll see americanhunter.com/crosmancover.html. I think you'll find all the Info you're looking for there. Good luck with the project.

 
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(Login gubb33ps)
YF

Good sites...

April 12 2009, 7:04 PM 

You'll get use to taking 2240's apart if you plan to do any mods...it's only confusing the first time, after that can get them apart and together in no time.

 
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(Login canblaster)
YF

Thanks to all you guys - you're what makes this site great!

April 12 2009, 7:20 PM 

.. and keeps our hobby goin' and growin' ... Thanks to you, I now have what I really lacked in the first place: Confidence that I can do something like this--at my age (67) priceless. happy.gif


    
This message has been edited by canblaster on Apr 12, 2009 8:08 PM


 
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(Login gubb33ps)
YF

Just a few place...

April 12 2009, 8:22 PM 

..that might need a little extra care.

Once you have the grip frame off, there is a little spring and ball bearing that powers the safety...people are always losing those (and usually can manage to find the spring, but not the tiny ball bearing). Be careful, and when reassembling, those two parts seem to work just as well coated with a nice glob of thick grease (and the grease will keep them from falling out so easily when you put it back together).

There is a dinky little allen screw that holds the breech on...buy a really well fitting allen key and do NOT get ham-handed with it. Helps if the rear screw of the breech is loosened first.

Once the barrel/breech lifts off, be careful not to lose the little transfer port and the gasket that goes under it.

When you get down to the valve, the two sections of that are usually very tightly assembled. tight enough that I'll put one half in a padded vice (usually padded with sheet lead, but some semi-hard plastics or heavy leather will work) and grab onto the other half with a pair of padded vice grips (same type of padding as the vice).
------
What normally kills a valve stem seal is dirt. Even a little bit of grit, sande, or general "funk" blwon though the valve under co2 pressure will cut the seal. Sometimes you get lucky and there is just a hair or other stray bit of crap that fouled the valve stem and the seal isn't cut....but you won't know until you get inside, and it's beter to have the spare parts at hand to do the repair.


 
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(Login canblaster)
YF

Thanks again, Robert! Appreciate the advice. - NT

April 15 2009, 9:43 AM 


 
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