Has anyone else tried the Pilkguns Trigger Mod for the Daisy Avanti 853? I put a set of modified parts in one of my 853s with mixed results. The trigger travel is definitely shorter, but the trigger weight feels much the same.
You can see the trigger moving rearward as the screw is twisted in. Even at the very edge of the break, it takes considerable force to move the trigger the final .001".
If you have done this mod and have a 1.5lb trigger, let me know if you followed the instructions exactly or if you made some other changes along the way. I am thinking that I may need to hone the edges of my cuts.
I did much the same mod to my 753 but instead of using the screw, I just made a shim and epoxied it in to reduce the sear engagement. Not adjustable like the mod, but it works well. My sear/hammer surfaces were nasty rough, too. Polished everything that met. To get the pull weight down, the springs needed to be changed and, if I remember right, I even left one out(trigger return). Springs were cannibalized from ball point pens. Pull is now 22oz. with just a hint of creep.
Rob, I had read a much older post of yours this morning and have emailed you with a question but it may be easier for you to address right here. I like the idea of the shim rather than the trigger adjustment screw as it eliminates a lot of other mechanical modifications. While it might be quite obvious to me when I have my 753 it has not arrived yet and I would like to get the modification clear in my head so that I can take care of it immediately.
I have not seen a picture or a sketch of WHERE you epoxied in the shim. I have assumed that it is on the top edge of the sear where the sear rests on the large, rear rim of the striker but I would appreciate some confirmation on the details of the shim.
If you have pictures of the modified striker I would appreciate seeing them as I am sure others would as well.
It has been several years since I last modified a batch or two of these for our local JROTC teams, but I would have to say that merely drilling and tapping that threaded hole in the rear of the trigger guard, and inserting the adjustment screw is far from enough ! Unfortunately I can no longer locate all my notes and photos of the actual mods I used. The pics on my own and Scotts' site of the added screw, and the modified sear/trigger contours do provide a good starting point though.
If you have completely dismantled the action of any of the 753, 853, 888, and 887 units you will find them to be of rather low quality components, by comparison with most of the air rifles we discuss on this Forum. There is extensive usage of pot-metal die castings, simple sheet metal stampings that have not been de-burred, plastic mouldings and sheet-metal screws. This is not to say that the overall combination does not work somewhat effectively ... BUT it can be improved.
Initially - concentrate on lightly de-burring the sheet metal parts and remove flashings from the mouldings and die castings. Polish the cylindrical surfaces of the hammer block. Then assemble the action, leaving one face open so that you can observe the action in operation during a cocking and firing cycle. Note which surfaces are in contact and how they interact ... lightly stone and re-contour them as necessary to get that crisp break. Thes triggers can be made to to break cleanly at 1-1/2# ... but in general it is not recommended that you go below 2# if used in formal competition ... they tend to fail the bump test if you do !
Above all be very careful when removing and re-inserting all the sheet metal screws ... it's very easy to strip out the pot metal castings !
Thanks for the reply. Did you look at the procedure? In addition to the adjustment screw, portions of the trigger and safety lock are removed to shorten up the sear engagement. I am wondering if I left too many ripples along the cuts. Will investigate further.
I've done the Pilkington mod on a 953, 753, and even a smoothbore 850, and I've had really good luck each time. While it'll never be a true match trigger, it can be made quite nice. It'll always have a pretty stiff pull by match grade, maybe around 1.5 - 2 lb, but it'll break very cleanly and predictably, with very limited overtravel. For me, that's easier to shoot accurately than a lighter trigger with less predictability.
As far as smoothing tool marks from plastic parts, sandpaper works well. Sand wet, and work your way up to 600 or so. Wet sanding helps keep the plastic from getting gummy.
Keep in mind that these are mass-produced guns built to a price point, so there's only so much you can get out of them. BTW, my Daisy 753 will outshoot my FWB300S at 10M in my hands. Your milage may vary.
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