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Daisy Avanti 853 Trigger mod

January 17 2010 at 10:45 AM
  (Login Whiteleather)

Has anyone else tried the Pilkguns Trigger Mod for the Daisy Avanti 853?  I put a set of modified parts in one of my 853s with mixed results.  The trigger travel is definitely shorter, but the trigger weight feels much the same.

You can see the trigger moving rearward as the screw is twisted in.  Even at the very edge of the break, it takes considerable force to move the trigger the final .001". 

If you have done this mod and have a 1.5lb trigger, let me know if you followed the instructions exactly or if you made some other changes along the way.  I am thinking that I may need to hone the edges of my cuts.

Link to the PilkGun trigger mod page:  http://www.pilkguns.com/daisy853tm.shtml.

Kris in NY

This message has been edited by Whiteleather on Jan 17, 2010 11:40 AM

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Robert L. Kalb
(Login RecoilRob)

Re: Daisy Avanti 853 Trigger mod

January 17 2010, 11:08 AM 

I did much the same mod to my 753 but instead of using the screw, I just made a shim and epoxied it in to reduce the sear engagement. Not adjustable like the mod, but it works well. My sear/hammer surfaces were nasty rough, too. Polished everything that met. To get the pull weight down, the springs needed to be changed and, if I remember right, I even left one out(trigger return). Springs were cannibalized from ball point pens. Pull is now 22oz. with just a hint of creep.

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(Login Whiteleather)


January 17 2010, 11:56 AM 


Thanks for the reply.  Hmmm...that Pilkgun procedure doesn't mention springs but DOES say trigger weight will be reduced with the cuts outlined. 

Ahh well.  Time to open her up again and poke around.  Having a hard time "polishing" the plastic.  Every tool seems to leave marks...maybe I could tumble it in my case polisher.

Kris in NY

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(Login RecoilRob)

I took a pic

February 7 2010, 5:49 PM 

Simple plastic shim made from the clip of a Bic pen. .085"thick which leaves .030" sear engagement. Also removed the trigger spring and just use the hammer spring to reset the sear. [linked image]

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(Login k9jri)

More info on the shim

February 5 2010, 2:20 PM 

Rob, I had read a much older post of yours this morning and have emailed you with a question but it may be easier for you to address right here. I like the idea of the shim rather than the trigger adjustment screw as it eliminates a lot of other mechanical modifications. While it might be quite obvious to me when I have my 753 it has not arrived yet and I would like to get the modification clear in my head so that I can take care of it immediately.

I have not seen a picture or a sketch of WHERE you epoxied in the shim. I have assumed that it is on the top edge of the sear where the sear rests on the large, rear rim of the striker but I would appreciate some confirmation on the details of the shim.

If you have pictures of the modified striker I would appreciate seeing them as I am sure others would as well.

Thanks in advance - Mike

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(Login fuzzylimey)

Trigger Mods .... Daisy !

January 17 2010, 11:11 AM 

It has been several years since I last modified a batch or two of these for our local JROTC teams, but I would have to say that merely drilling and tapping that threaded hole in the rear of the trigger guard, and inserting the adjustment screw is far from enough ! Unfortunately I can no longer locate all my notes and photos of the actual mods I used. The pics on my own and Scotts' site of the added screw, and the modified sear/trigger contours do provide a good starting point though.

If you have completely dismantled the action of any of the 753, 853, 888, and 887 units you will find them to be of rather low quality components, by comparison with most of the air rifles we discuss on this Forum. There is extensive usage of pot-metal die castings, simple sheet metal stampings that have not been de-burred, plastic mouldings and sheet-metal screws. This is not to say that the overall combination does not work somewhat effectively ... BUT it can be improved.

Initially - concentrate on lightly de-burring the sheet metal parts and remove flashings from the mouldings and die castings. Polish the cylindrical surfaces of the hammer block. Then assemble the action, leaving one face open so that you can observe the action in operation during a cocking and firing cycle. Note which surfaces are in contact and how they interact ... lightly stone and re-contour them as necessary to get that crisp break. Thes triggers can be made to to break cleanly at 1-1/2# ... but in general it is not recommended that you go below 2# if used in formal competition ... they tend to fail the bump test if you do !

Above all be very careful when removing and re-inserting all the sheet metal screws ... it's very easy to strip out the pot metal castings !

Mick - The Fuzzy Limey

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(Login Whiteleather)

More goes on than just the screw.

January 17 2010, 11:53 AM 


Thanks for the reply.  Did you look at the procedure?  In addition to the adjustment screw, portions of the trigger and safety lock are removed to shorten up the sear engagement.  I am wondering if I left too many ripples along the cuts.  Will investigate further.

Kris in NY

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(Login 22MK1)

I didn't do it but I have a 953 with the mod

January 17 2010, 1:59 PM 

I have another with the now extinct Steve in NC sear in it that I like better. I bought both used off the classifieds and I think I bought one of them from Tony with 753 sight6s on it.

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(Login 144man)

I've done it on several Daisys

January 17 2010, 4:15 PM 

I've done the Pilkington mod on a 953, 753, and even a smoothbore 850, and I've had really good luck each time. While it'll never be a true match trigger, it can be made quite nice. It'll always have a pretty stiff pull by match grade, maybe around 1.5 - 2 lb, but it'll break very cleanly and predictably, with very limited overtravel. For me, that's easier to shoot accurately than a lighter trigger with less predictability.

As far as smoothing tool marks from plastic parts, sandpaper works well. Sand wet, and work your way up to 600 or so. Wet sanding helps keep the plastic from getting gummy.

Keep in mind that these are mass-produced guns built to a price point, so there's only so much you can get out of them. BTW, my Daisy 753 will outshoot my FWB300S at 10M in my hands. Your milage may vary.

I think we're all Bozos on this bus.

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(Login Chris__Colorado)

Here's what I did from the Airgun Reference Library

January 17 2010, 4:37 PM 

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A.O. Martinez
(Login aom22)

Daisy 753/853/953 Trigger Modification

January 17 2010, 7:52 PM 

I sent Pilkington Competition an email asking if they would modify/adjust the trigger on a Daisy 753.  They responded that they could and for a reasonable fee:

"We can do the modification to the trigger for $60 plus the return shipping to you."

This is a reasonable alternative if you wish to improve the quality of your trigger.  But,  are not willing to tackle the task yourself.

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