Hello, I am new to PCP and have got an Evanix .22 Renegade. After using the hand pump for a few times, I decided that it's too tiring for me so I am looking into the possiblity of getting a small electric pump that can do about 150 bars. May I have some recommendation pls ? thanks in advance.
Because its not like a conventional 125 psi garage compressor. And there's certianly sticker shock. You're gonna need about $3000.00 give or take 500. And just so you know its not a typing mistake, that's three thousand dollars.
This why I consider PCP technology to still be in its infancy. Hand pumps are expensive and have a bad track record for long term durability, powered compressors are priced in the stratosphere, and the scuba tank route just sounds...exhausting, between hydros and refills.
I don't understand why someone can't come up with a compressor that's smaller, 110v compatable, slower running (via gear reduction...thus more torque), and liquid cooled that could say, fill a 180cc gun like a Marauder in 10 minutes. Have models available with an (exchangeable) cutoff switch for 220bar, 200bar, and 150bar.
If a hand pump was more reliable, I think I could have a 110v mechanical rig built (by your average bubbas at a machine shop) to cycle the pump with an electric motor for less than $3000. Say, maybe 1 stroke every 10 seconds.
This message has been edited by LexingtonGreg on Jun 29, 2010 12:00 PM This message has been edited by LexingtonGreg on Jun 29, 2010 11:44 AM
"I'd like to know the historical reason why electrical service is not a worldwide standard"
At the start there were no standards (in fact Edison's power distribution was DC....). Safety concerns set the US at 110 Volts and the Japanese at 100 (indeed a 'lifesaver' in practice). Economy plays a part as well, higher voltages allow smaller wires (cheaper) in Europe and higher frequency (60 Hz) favors slightly smaller, lighter (and cheaper) transformers and motors.
Same sort of reasons we've had 6, 12 and 24 volt cars and trucks.
In the states, 110 volts (at 15 or 20 amps) is the standard. Dozens of outlets (on several circuits) 'everywhere'. Some garages (but very very few appartments) have a single 220 volt outlet (for a dryer) in the garage or service porch. Since natural gas is a much cheaper source of heat here, most dryers aren't electric.
This limits you to one HP or so. Guys might like more, but there's just no place to plug it in. A '220 Volt only' uint would loose sales.
I work for an electrical utility supplying power to houses, businesses, industries, irrigation pumps, etc. 120/240v 60hz is the standard household voltage. As previously mentioned, higher voltages transmit over distance better (less voltage loss) and can use thinner wires. They also require more insulation and are more dangerous. Generally the larger the load is the higher voltage is required. A home/small business is usually 120/240v, an irrigation pump is usually 240v or 480v, an industrial customer can be served with primary voltage (4160v to 34,500v).
A 120v motor on a 10A circuit could draw 1200 watts before the circuit breaker/fuse should interrupt it. At 746 watts/hp that would be 1.6hp motor output.
I would LOVE a compressor in the $300-$500 range that would pump to 3000psi+.
This is hardly a new idea (as it usually happens). FX made such a unit, several 'garage shops' have also made them or kits. Generally they are slow and don't last. Note AoA no longer has 'em 'cuz FX stopped:
I have an Airhogs 88CF Carbon Fiber tank, My Mrod gets about 50 fills from a tank of 4500PSI down to 2800 PSI. It costs $5.00 to fill the CF tank at my local dive shop and that happens once every other month for me. Hydro is good until April of 2015.
IMHO it is well worth it to get a tank if there is a place that can fill to 4500 PSI within a reasonable distance.
I have never looked back to my pump once. I shoot SO MUCH more now.
Nice video in that its possible to see how the compressor works. I'll bet the cylinder gets super hot though. I'd like to see some focus on active cooling, like a cylinder with substantial fins (read that as an integrared heat sink) and a fan blowing on it, or a liquid cooled cylinder.
Maybe someone makes bolt-on heat sinks of the right diameter, something like this...
And a good high volume directional fan like this small squirrel cage type...
This message has been edited by LexingtonGreg on Jun 29, 2010 12:32 PM
I will be one of the Beta testers for the Mini Compressor
June 29 2010, 3:00 PM
or Shoebox Compressor that Tom Kaye will release soon.
IMO ideally suited to a shooter with a bottle gun, HPA setup or a decent sized reservoir gun.
The idea being to allow it some time to top up the air pressure when finished shooting. It will take up to 4 hours to refill a 68 cubic inch 4500psi HPA tank.
I was a detractor as I could not believe it would be possible. Now Tom has entrusted me to critique it and prove its functionality for airgunners. (was developed for paintballers)
Will it be recommended to provide one's own water sep?
June 29 2010, 7:01 PM
I have a conventional compressor and this time of year it takes very little run time to accumulate water in the traps. Aside from the corrosion arguments we've seen here before, do you see any harm coming from running a compressor directly to a gun (as normal procedure)without a water trap? Obviously, if a water separator is required, that would have to be added to the cost for a complete set-up. I look forward to your test.
The shoebox runs slow enough to not build excessive heat. An inline moisture filter between the compressors should remove a large portion of moisture before high compression. A twin pack of filters from Grainger is
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