It's not the right way to go, just keep shooting the rifle, sooner or later it will calm down when the spring gets a bend in it....really should send it out and have the right work done on it for the best result sooner
is that the spring tar (or grease)doesn't just go onto the mainspring. Some invariably gets onto the outside of the piston; and depending on the grease- that's not desirable.
Let's get right to the heart of the matter: your desire to quell spring twang. A little grease applied unevenly on basically only about half the spring won't make much difference. The fact is that packing grease around the spring- even if you had the gun completely apart- wouldn't have the full desired effect. This is because springs vibrate because the factory guides fit the spring too loosely. The only way to stop it is to physically control the springs oscillations with a precisely fitted spring guide. The idea of controlling vibration with lubes only isn't only wrong headed.. it's darn near impossible! The result would be too much grease inside the piston, which slows the gun down AND makes the shot to shot consistency even more erratic.. which in turn can affect accuracy.
I've had customers come to me with their own home tunes complaining of the gun slowing down and their groups have opened up. The usual culprit is overlubing, so a tear down and grease removal is the first order of business.
Ultimately, there are no short cuts to getting good results. The best option is to do tune right and be done with it. Hope this helps. Russ
"The Universe is comprised mainly of two things.. hydrogen and ignorance."
Inventor, astronomer and metaphysical thinker.
You can perform a "slot" lube, but if your gun has the TO5 trigger -
March 3 2011, 6:32 PM
then it really isn't that hard to tear down. Remove the forend screws, then the rear trigger guard screw, and the action will come out of the stock. It is probably best to have a spring compressor, but if you use some common sense it's not absoloutley necessary. Remove the rear tube cover from the trigger block. Have a scratch awl or punch pin handy. Place the rear of the trigger block on the edge of a work bench or a wooden plank, apply downward pressure from the barrel just above the breech block, and on my 34, it was easy to push out one of the two drift pins. Now repeat, but very carefully as you will be all that's holding the gun together. I think most 34's do not have a great deal of pre-load from the factory, but there will be some. Now hopefully you will have some Maccari lubes on hand, or better yet, just drop in a Vortek kit.
If you tear it down, yourself, BUILD A SPRING COMPRESSOR!!!
March 3 2011, 7:35 PM
That spring is packed in there and contains a lot of energy. If it comes loose, it could cause serious damage and injury.
If you do try the infamous "slot tune", get some flat plastic packing tape - the kind that comes around large boxes and is waffle imprinted, maybe 3/8" wide. Cut a one foot strip and use it to judiciously push the tar around. It will wrap itself around the spring. Lets you apply only a little, which goes a long way.
The guys are right. Lube, alone, won't eliminate twang but even just lubing a spring will have benefits and tame it a bit. Especially Diana air guns which have been coming pretty dry these days. I would use JM heavy tar.
Don, there is no way around it. The spring twang you are describing will not go away. My sons 34 went through thousands of pellets without any improvement. I ended up going with a JM kit from Air Rifle Headquaters. Once installed (using a spring compressor of course) all the twang and vibration is gone and it is a pleasure to shoot. The factory springs these days on ALL springers suck no matter who the manufacturer is. My TX200, R1, and HW97 all needed home tune ups to be acceptable. Do what is necessary and install a quality spring.
After reading all the post and looking at the link that shows a breakdown using the woodworkers clamps I am sure I can do this. I am a little concerned when some say there is just a little pressure and others say there is a lot but it is objective and I realise different brand guns will not be the same.
JM sells the tar so I was thinking of getting a kit from them, it seems that both kits get very good reviews, any advantage one over the other. I dont think any tar comes with the kit so it would be easier to buy from JM.
The tar comes with the kit so no need to buy any. Just pick up a small tub of moly paste from JM for the backside of the piston seal. You should lightly lube this area. Vortek is also another good kit but they dont offer the moly for the back side of the piston seal.
You know, if you just want to calm the buzz down some, the slot tune isn't the worst thing you could do. Not nearly as good as a proper tube, but for a fresh factory (dry!!!) stock gun, it certainly won't hurt to make it a little more tolerable shooter for initial break in. Just go easy with the tar. Like moly, a little goes along way. Later on after you get a little more at ease with the rifle, and some research with the search function, you'll be ready to tackle the tune yourself. It aint rocket science either. There are some great aftermarket kits available so study up and learn your rifle. Have fun too!!! Build a spring compressor for a third hand, and make a set of drift pins. They both make the job a lot easier.
If you do decide to open up your gun, and want a low cost effective method.....
March 4 2011, 12:25 PM
of getting rid of spring noise, do a "shrink tune" on the spring guide, and lube things properly. Guys on this forum have been using this method for years and years, but for some reason it is virtually never mentioned when a question such as yours is posted.
Some of my shrink tuned guns have shot cycles that are almost as smooth as my guns that have been professionally tuned. A couple of hundred guns could be shrink tuned for the price of one pro tune.
Do a search for "+shrink+tune", and you will find lots of posts on how to do it.
BTW, except for a hand full of gun models, I highly suggest using a spring compressor.
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