disco issues, a bit above my skill setMarch 17 2017 at 9:57 PM
|N2T (Login N2T)|
So with the groups opening up, I removed the scope, tightened everything I could find down. And cleaned the bbl well. Then issues cropped up. The gun began to fire on closing the bolt, the bolt would not lock back, or shoot forward, close by itself and fire. I was getting weak shots that barely sent the pellet to the target etc. I removed nothing, just sprayed a bit of wd-40 down the barrel and did a half dozen passes with a brush then a few with oiled patch then wet patch. I put a drop of oil on the o-ring on the bolt probe as well. So current issues are bad groups, a bolt that closes and fires the gun by itself, "weak" shots, and the bolt not locking back. I'm a bit confused to say the least. I tightened the barrel band screws, scope rings, scope mounts, end cap, and the single screw that holds the barrel in place as well as the one that holds the breech down (single screw on top of breech), the flat head screw at the back of the breech was find and the stock screw was tightened at it had loosened as well. I'm unsure how any of this would cause such odd firing characteristics. Ideas?
Have you checked your trigger group?
|March 17 2017, 10:10 PM |
Gun firing by itself indicates a bad sear engagement. I'd check the trigger group and make sure you have good sear lockup.
"but I'll be needin' that gun, fer squirrels and such."
I have not
|March 17 2017, 10:28 PM |
I haven't messed with the trigger group, honestly that's what I'm wondering, if there is some issue with lockup and the sear is letting go/slipping.
Look in your bolt. Slot snd tell me if there's a small round pin sticking up from breech
|March 18 2017, 10:26 AM |
When you close the bolt. There's no resistance? Either your cocking pin broke, the spring broke, or the pin became disengaged. There are diagrams, schematics online for free. You're going to have to dissasemble. Actually there's only a very small .050 Allen screw UNDERNEATH the bolt that you can't see that holds front of breech/barrel flush with transfer port. Is there ANY gap between barrel assembly breech block and air transport trigger housing block? If you need more help send me pictires by text.. email me at firstname.lastname@example.org for number.
|This message has been edited by JamesDingle777 on Mar 18, 2017 10:28 AM|
|March 18 2017, 11:20 AM |
There is a small pin sticking up behind the breech. There is also a bit of a gap between the breech and tube. I get resistance cocking the bolt, but then it either fires on closing or shoots forward and fires itself. Not always but a fairly regular amount of times. I may just send it back to Roy and have it reworked. I'm worried I may cause more issues than I solve taking it apart, lol.
|March 18 2017, 11:29 AM |
I had a similar problem. Turned out to be the tension balance between the 4-48 breech screw and the rear breech bolt. I disassembled and clamped down the breech to the tube and reinstalled the screw and bolt making sure both were tight and no space in between the breech and tube. That worked just fine.
If you have no problem sending it back great, but
|March 18 2017, 12:07 PM |
if you can't afford it, and you pay shipping both ways, buy rebuild kit from Magnum Air Power (Bill Baldyga) have it all sent to me and I'll rebuild it completely for free and I can guarantee I'll get your rifle shooting at least 1/2" groups at 20 yards with at least 1 pellet as long as your scope isn't broken.
Your initial issue of bad groups. How bad? Call me if you would like the offer or anything needed. 57zero-97seven-11four9
|March 18 2017, 12:36 PM |
But this isn't a stock gun and the Roy at Mountain air does a great job. I think he'll take care of me on this issue. Previously this gun was shooting sub 1" groups at 80 yards, I figured it was just really dirty, I guess something else is to blame. How bad were my bad groups? Lol from sub 1" at 80 yards to sub 3" at 50 and barely able to hold under an inch at 20. Not normal for this gun. I would take you up on the offer if I it wasn't something I was sure Roy could handle.
Yes understood. If it was doing that well, Roy already
|March 18 2017, 1:18 PM |
did everything to it I can without machinery. What did you use to clean barrel and are you sure you didn't budger crown or bore? Also if you left some residue like Slick50One or GooGone in there it will change POI if not cleaned out thoroughly
. I think you tensioned the breech unequally for the trigger to not engage and firing so easily upon closing bolt when it does catch and you torqued the barrel band to the point that it has moved your barrels muzzle. Easy fixes for Roy. No worries.
|March 18 2017, 2:44 PM |
I don't think the accuracy change has to do with cleaning. I have cleaned the same way, wd-40 and nylon brush along with patches for several years on this gun. It's never been an issue in the past. Tensioning he breech unevenly is possible and I will see if I did that. But the trigger is engaging at all times it doesn't auto close/fire and I'm unsure that would cause the weak valve strikes. If it was just a poi shift I would think it could be the barrel bands..but it appears to be more than that.
Weak strikes. Your hammer is dragging or hanging up on cocking pin, disengagement sear
|March 18 2017, 5:38 PM |
Gubb means there are trigger group screws visible if you take it out of the stock, which safety has to be temoved to do. From what you've written, you only cleaned and tightened. Why its groups opened up in the first place I don't know. It's hard to figure out fir sure without seeing it. I guess you should send it to Roy if aren't aware of how it all works. He'll fix it right up as it can't be a big problem.
taken out of stock
|March 18 2017, 5:52 PM |
Took it out of the stock, safety is pretty easy, pull spring forward, remove safety, to replace, push spring forward from inside, catch with small allen key, replace safety. I found that the upper screw on the trigger housing had backed out causing my bolt issue, I put it back in about 1/4 turn and the bolt locks up just fine. All surfaces look smooth and burr free, don't see any wear or rust. So my bolt now locks back just fine, no cracks in housing. But I'm still getting light strikes. Something to do with the hammer spring maybe? Lol of course I emptied the gun to do all this, and pumping it back up the gauge on my pump stopped working.... It's going to be one of those weeks isn't it?
Put a small shot of Slick 50 One in bolt slot and work it back and forth a few times
|March 19 2017, 12:01 AM |
You don't need much at all. Even a little on a Q-tip applied will eliviate any drag from lack of lubricant.
Steve in NC
I know you said you haven't messed with the trigger group, but...
|March 18 2017, 11:42 AM |
...have you (or someone else) ever had the action out of the stock?
The reason I ask is because the symptoms you list can be caused by failing to correctly reinstall the safety button, and removing the button is a required part of taking the action out of the stock.
|March 18 2017, 12:38 PM |
Yes, I and Roy have had the action out of the stock, gun has worked for about 5 years after that however so I'm unsure the safety is the issue. The trigger was reworked at that time and a custom brass trigger installed, along with a trigger job. I just don't think that's part of the issue at it's taken thousands of rounds and 5 years to crop up.
Cracked plastic trigger housing?
|March 18 2017, 1:33 PM |
If the housing cracks (and it is plastic) then when you tighten the trigger housing screws, which can casue some serious ear engagment/sear drag issues.
|March 18 2017, 2:45 PM |
I don't even see screws by the trigger housing. I have the one stock screw on the bottom of the gun, but there's no screws near the trigger for me to have tightened.