HW55 Tune...May 19 2017 at 5:35 PM
|ggronke (Login ggronke)|
I have a small number of different lubes for tuning my HW55 (1961-ish model), including: Dry Moly powder. Beeman Metal-to-Metal. Macarri Moly Paste. Macarri Clear Tar. Beeman White Lube Paste. Feinwerkbau thin, white Metal grease in the skinny tube. Now, I also have a small amount of Vortek Syn grease for their tune kit which is going in, and I just purchased that unreasonably expensive Superlube from Amazon(is that stuff made of gold or something?).
I have been very carefully de-burring & prepping everything. I even used the YouTube video for taking apart & cleaning the Rekord trigger unit. Interesting...those little springs can really piss you off %$*@! (after the video I calmed down). I noticed the older Rekord in this 55 has a small pin across the top, which blocks the long end of the big sear lever from protruding when the whole trigger module is removed. The newer Rekord units DO protrude when removed. Is this just because it's old, or do all 55's Rekords have this pin going across? (I suppose it's not that important?)
Anyway - I was curious about using the magical Superlube. The Vortek HW55-PG2-L tuning kit will be used with its' own syn-lube for the power plant. Since Superlube does not burn, I'm thinking of trying this in the comp chamber, outside of piston, whole interior of receiver tube. Because it STAYS PUT and should be super-slick, I'm thinking all trigger sear parts, including the highest pressure points under mainspring tension. Mistake?
One thing I tried in the past after deburring, is I lightly buffed some powdered Moly on the interior of the receiver tube(EVERYTHING inside the tube), and rubbed up the outside of the piston & seal, then put a very thin coating of Moly paste on all those same areas(That is one smooth shooting R7 .20 cal!)
Would a thin layer of Superlube in place of the Moly paste, be as good or better after the buffing, or skip those Moly steps in the receiver tube altogether, and just clean and use Superlube? Hmmm...
Another thing about installing the Vortek PG2 tune kit - This tune kit is supposed to act like a rotational bearing to eliminate that spring torque & smooth out the shot cycle. Is this suppose to mean free rotation at both ends of the spring? If so, I believe the performance for the PG2 kit would be compromised some if each end is not flat. I noticed where the spring top hat seats inside the piston, there's a fair sized burr on the surface. It doesn't look like it's sharp, more like a tiny ridge of bumps on one side, about halfway between the spring rod and the inside piston wall, and I can't get to it. I noticed a mark starting on the top hat just from putting a hand pressure load on it while rotating. I know there is only so much room to shim something like this, otherwise the gun won't cock. I was wondering where I can get a very thin washer of the same material(or softer) as the plastic used in the PG2 kit(Home Depot?Lowes?). That way, the burr can dig its' way into the plastic washer, the opposite side would then be flat, to be lubed & give the top hat something it can rotate on. Steel isn't going to lay flat on that bump, but I'm thinking the right plastic can. Anyone have a similar experience with this issue?
All comments welcome...
|This message has been edited by ggronke on May 19, 2017 5:35 PM|
|May 20 2017, 7:38 AM |
Can't help you on the Vortek stuff, but the pin at the top is seen on all older Rekords, and is deleted on all newer ones, not just those in the HW 55.
The pin makes it easier to re-insert the trigger module, since you are not fighting the spring tension on the big sear lever when inserting the cross pins. But on newer triggers you can accomplish the same thing, by simply cocking the mechanism before you put it in (but don't forget to pull the trigger, before cocking the gun the first time after re-assembly).
The only physical differences in the HW 55's Rekord are a slightly lighter trigger tension spring, and a bit more attention to aligning and polishing the sear surfaces. Later examples added the locking collar for the adjustment spring--which was accompanied by a differently-shaped opening in the trigger guard, by the way.
Get creative. Take and old spring. Put a fat drill bit on drill add duct tape till it fits
|May 23 2017, 2:32 PM |
snug in the spring. Pour a bit of fine sand in the piston. Start drilling. That should polish that area very quick. I will probably get flack for my mickey mouse procedures but you said all comments welcome. If you really want it to slide add a washer after the polish job. Preferably a steel washer with thin lube on both sides. I bet theres room but if not take down the thickness of the top hat some or just go without the washer..