What is the correct measurements and balancer for this fairly common change. I want to do this to my new motor and want to do it in a way that is common and not just some kind of freak deal nobody else has done. I am also running a Danny Bee belt drive. Is the Boss type deal the correct way and if so what are the measurements , etc.
Thanks, Bret
PFC Engines 573-793-2177
DTS Dyno and SuperFlow SF600 equipped!
"Pullin For Christ"
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If you just put the balancer onto the Boss lenght snout it will be about the right length, maybe a little too long. Also, the timing numbers will be off about 100 degrees or so I think.... The reason I say I think is because I've always done a one off freaky sort of deal:^). Meaning I was working with a blower and that's always a one off freaky sort of deal. I was using a blower hub made for a small block and I ended up cutting it off some in the lathe just to make it as short as possible. You shouldn't have to do that so I would try just putting it on the crank and see how it looks. Hopefully it'll stick out just a little too far and you'll be able to cut it down some and make it line up perfectly, that's what I would do.
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If you check kaases website under hard core parts he list a ATI dampner (#917520) that fits 460 fords with the short snout bryant cranks,it does not require a spacer.
Hope this helps.
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With the Danny Bee you will need to use the 6 3/8 diameter dampener. The big block will hit the idler stud. On a stock timing cover you can use the big block 7 1/4 on the small block hub. If you have a Boss snout you can make a cupped washer to cover the extra length that protrudes through the hub.
On Bryant cranks sometines we chuck the crank up in a steady rest on a lathe and trim the Boss length so it is just below flush with the hub. You get into the first keyway slightly but it doesn't affect the woodruf key in any way. We use a peterson dry sump drive for a small block. It uses two 3/16 roll pins to engage the face of the hub. The ATI small block hub usually has two dimples to mark where the pins will go. You have to drill the hub with the drive flange clamped in place. It makes a real nice neat installation.
This message has been edited by GB3351 from IP address 67.130.59.43 on Dec 7, 2005 1:01 AM
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On the one monster truck engine that has a Bryant crank I also cut down the Boss snout similar to the way you're talking Gary. I did not do this on the Crower crank and with a small block blower hub I still could cut down the length of it's built in spacer because I wanted to make the hub as short as possible to keep the blower pulley in close to the front cover of the engine.
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