Okay, I'm going to repair this monitor now but it will be a slow process due to the fact that I need a refresher on some basics. Lucky for me, I saved all my books from the computer repair course and now can go back over them.

At first, I thought it should not be a problem. After all, I reached in my back pocket and had my A+ Cert card still shinny. I asked my self if this is enough. I even answered by saying, "It is enough...not". It may be a nice background for what I am attempting to learn but that's about it.

Good for me I luckily stumbled upon the "Notes on the troubleshooting and repair of computers and monitors" on the WEB. It helped me to decide that I needed to start again at the introduction to electronics. Also, the safety thing. I guess I could be ALL RIGHT as long as I left my left hand in one of my pockets. The need to not work alone may not be possible for me but I can leave my garage door up so that passersby could possibly see me lying on the garage floor with my hand in my pocket.

I got hold of the repair manual for my model and it has a trouble shooting guide in it as well as the schematics and pictures of how to dis assemble the monster. It is 19" and almost takes two men to carry it for a short distance. I bought it new off the WEB and in six months it went snap, crackle and pop. There were days of snaps and some days of pops, but finally I think it was a pop that got it. A tell tell smell of ozone in the air led me to believe it was finished and I carted it out to my garage and let it be for almost two years now.

I have a DMM that is good and will be purchasing a Voltmeter to determine if any volts are present. I am still blurry on how to discharge the fatal current from where and with what. I like the idea of the resistor of 2A but how to hold it and how to do it is not clear. I have insulated needle nose pliers but I'm sure when I get the nerve to do this, I will have to know in my own mind that I am doing it all right. I may wear rubber gladiator gloves, stand on a rubber shower curtain, and have the resistor on a nine foot pole when I do it, but I plan to be as safe as possible the first time at least.

I have joined this forum for an exchange of ideas and to help me in my efforts to do this right the first time. I hope I don't have to stop and smell the ozone along the way. Also, I enjoy helping others and perhaps my project can help someone else at the same time.

Jerry

"If All Else Fails....Read The Directions"

Hi chances are that you have a failed FBT.

Rich

Thanks for the information. The information I have is the flyback is T701 on the Block and has a boosted voltage of about 26kV appears at the secondary of the FBT then is supplied to the annode of the CDT. It mentions another output voltage called dynamic focus voltage.

I used the magnifying power of PDF to see what the beast looks like and its archtecture so I can identify it when I do observe it through heavy field lenses. Sorry about my dry sense of humor.

It looks like it is close to Start where the fuse is and the power enters the monitor and goes to the transformer. I have a lot of studying to do before I go near the ready killowatts. Hopefully none of the other units had to sacrifice themselves in order to save the FBT. But with all that poping and cracking and probably some arching, I'll have to do a good exam of the other parts to see if they look all tuckered out.

Jerry

"If All Else Fails....Read The Directions"

The most of repairer is concentrate by the book troubleshooting. But the actual problem are difference. Your must use your consideration by self in your action. Safety and quality is the main that to protect your equipment and person.Think carefully before your do the job. We have the course Trouble shooting and repairing course but all note in Malay medium.

You have left it for 2 years you dont need it. It will be the flyback as stated and probably other things as well, none of which will show up with your glasses however large. Needle nosed pliers to short charged capacitors etc are fine provided you like their noses blown off. Rubber mats and insulated pliers may have a 1KV insulation factor, frig around, and if it generates EHT you may have 28KV, quite enough to breech your protection.

Yes Rob, I don't need it after two years in the garage. But I thought I could use it to learn on. It was only six months old when it went out.

In addition to the FBT problem could be other things, I don't know about but can learn from.

I'm not sure if Electrolytic capacitors are used in monitors or not. They can be very troublesome for techs because they deteriorate, particullary if not used. I think they can only be used in dc or pulsating dc circuits.

They say you should not store them for longer than six months and then put a small voltage across the capacitor and gradually increase it until it exceeds the rated voltage. They say they can even deteriorate as they are used. The moisture escapes over time and the capacitor decreases. So these if in my monitor would not be a good thing. I know how to solder and de solder but like you say, coupled with the original problem and others that are not apparent to me now, perhaps this 55 lb clunk should be taken to the dump and pay them to dispose of it for me.

I saw an Ad on Buy dot com for a princeton monitor LCD, 19" for $239.

They are coming down now and makes repair of monitors less appealing.

For now, I will stay away from monitor repair due to the hazards involved and just read about how to do it for curiosity sake.

Thanks every one for your advice.

Jerry

"If All Else Fails....Read The Directions"

Hi Jerry

Did you check if this monitor is still under warranty? You said it failed after 6 months. Normally LG monitors have 3 years warranty. Even if you don't have the proof of purchase look on the back for the manufacturing date near the serial number. Usually this is acceptable for LG repair centers.

Regards
Gilles