So here goes:
Lets clear up the last post, You did not replace your needle and seat when you rebuilt your carb?? Is the "seat" what you are calling the "fuel inlet"?? REPLACE IT NOW, and make sure it is the "window" type, problem solved and now you do not have to drill it. (you did use a motorcraft kit right???)
Next, LOCKWIRE, embrace it, use it!!!! More deaths have been caused in racing from carb linkage coming off or breaking than from anything else happening. This often overlooked area, gets so much abuse and wear. Imagine you come out of the corner, mash the throttle and scream down the back stretch, passing 4 cars ahead of you, you lift only to find the accelerator is still bottomed out to the floor. DO YOU MAKE THE CORNER, OR DO YOU CRASH FULL SPEED INTO THE WALL AND DIE!!! LOCKWIRE, EMBRACE IT, USE IT!!!!!! IF YOU CAN'T RACE SAFELY......THEN DON'T RACE!!!!!!
You got lucky, your guardian angel gave you a mulligan, others have not been as lucky as you. Go buy a lottery ticket TODAY, Donate a large sum of money to your favorite charity AND LOCKWIRE YOUR *&^&*%) THROTTLE CABLE....TODAY!!!!!!!!!
(Oh and along the same lines, don't use a carb stud (no way to lockwire one half of it) use a heim joint fitting and a solid mounting point which can then be lockwired on both sides. (Yes its more expensive but re-read this paragraph again)
VACUUM GAUGE, embrace it, use it!!!! If you are not using a vacuum gauge to set your idle mixture screws, well,...your not setting your idle mixture screws. (You don't race with blinders on do you? Just wondering............)
Power valve? All I am going to say is: "What is your basis for replacing it????" If you don't know why or have a way to measure the results then you are shooting in the dark at shadows. This is (believe it or not) advanced stuff (shouldn't be, but in my racing experience have only seen a very small amount of people doing this type of testing)so you need to know where you are headed and what direction you want to go.
We run the duraspark as well (stock ignition), but yes for the bigger track we change many things, including timing. Its the difference between wanting to run efficiently at 4000-5600 and running at 5000-7600. The bigger track makes a huge difference in how we tune and set-up versus the track we always run at. We carry much more speed through the bigger corners, and that changes what we do one the straights.
AGAIN KNOW WHERE YOU ARE GOING AND WHAT YOU WANT TO DO AND THAT WILL DICTATE THE CHANGE(S) YOU NEED TO MAKE. KEEP A LOG AND DOCUMENT ALL CHANGES. MAKE SURE ALL CHANGES YOU DO TO YOUR CAR ARE BASED ON PROPER TESTING AND MORE INPORTANTLY, RESULTS.
NEVER MAKE A PERMANENT CHANGE FOR A RACE WITHOUT TESTING, SEEING AND DOCUMENTING THE RESULT.
Now go lockwire that throttle cable.......
Bill White
White Automotive
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HAVE A NICE DAY!!!!