HAY Mr.W,
Permit me to introduce myself, I am JC Allison. Mr. Kultulz recommended that I get in touch with you. You come highly regarded.

I have a 1964 Ford Galaxie 500, Four-Door, Hard-Top, Fast-Back, Police Interceptor, that I have named: "Ms.American 3.14159". This vehicle has been my daily driver since June 6, 1986.

For JPGs of this vehicle, click here:
http://www.livingston.net/allison1/galaxie.htm

For JPGs of some of the work done on it, click here:
http://www.livingston.net/allison1/galaxre.htm

For JPGs of the Parts, Engineering, and Date Code Numbers, click here:
http://www.livingston.net/allison1/galaxpa.htm

AND for work done on an Autolite 4100 1.12, C4AF DG, click here:
http://www.livingston.net/allison1/galaxca.htm

With the help of the fine netizens at Ford Muscle Forum, this vehicle, which has nearly 300,000 miles on it, is getting put back into original condition.

Mr.K has ascertained that the original carburetor for a 1964 390 FE "P" Code engine was the Autolite 4100 1.12, C3AF BY or BU.

I traded the original unit in to an auto parts store before I knew how rare it was for a Holly-Rebuilt Autolite 4100 1.12, C5SF A when the original unit began to malfunction.

When I rebuilt the engine in 1989, I put a Holley 4150 w/ VS on it, and stored the C5SF A.

Then recently (just before last Christmas) began the "virgin-izing" (if that is really a word) of Ms.American 3.14159, and traded the C5SF A for a C4AF DG, that I had located. It isn't the EXACT "proper&correct" unit, but it is closer than the C5SF A.

I'm in the process of rebuilding it using a MOTORCRAFT Renew Kit: C2SZ*9A586*D which I obtained from the Gabriel Jordan Ford dealership in Livingston, TX, who got it from the Main Ford Parts Depot in Dearborn, MI.

With that background information, I'd like to know if you can supply the information that would make it possible to set up the C4AF DG to have the C3AF BY or BU calibration?

I want to put everything back the way it was when the car was originally purchased by my father in 1964 from the Fontana Ford dealership in Fontana, CA.

Any information that you might provide would be greatly appreciated.

Hope this finds you doing well, and thanks in advance.

Regards,

JC Allison

Those 64 gals are pretty cool cars, sounds like yours means a lot to you as well since its been in your family.

So you bring up and interesting dilema,
First of all the numbers I have for those unique Police interceptor carbs are C3AF-BY for the manual tranny and C3AF-BZ for the Automatic. That is according to the 1964 Factory manual from FORD along with the first printing from SEPTEMBER 1963 of the 1964 service specifications that were given out to all FORD MECHANICS. They also list the BU and the BV coded carbs for the 300 horsepower Z coded 390
HOWEVER, the third print of the specifications guide no longer listed the 1963 carbs but had replaced them with 1964 carbs coded DF, DG, DH, and DJ. Of which you have.

Despite many rumors out there the only difference between the 300 horsepower Z coded 390 and the 330 horsepower Police interceptor P coded 390 should be the mechanical camshaft and the higher oil pressure. Everything else on these engines were identical including the carbs.

You did good by trading that T-bird carb for the 64 galaxie carb, I would TOTALLY go with that carb.
Since your car was made in the middle of March, it would be totally consistant with a 64 dated carburetor. I know as a former galaxie judge I would not discount any points for that carb.

What you ask about making the C4-DG carb into a C3 carb is really not feasible, although one could install the other venturis, all you would really be doing is messing up the carb since the venturis act in conjunction with the transfer slots, openings and vacuum passages that are unique to that individual carburetor.

SO my advice to you now that you have the correct carburetor for your dated car is to build that C4.

Bill White
White Automotive

Mr. Kultulz told me to check with YOU, as you would have the information regarding the questions to which we've been seeking answers.

That you confirm that the DG is the "Proper/Correct" carburetor for the 3.14 is just FANTASTIC news. Wait'll Mr.K and the rest of the fine netizens at FordMuscle Forum hear about this.

Haven't as yet opened the MOTORCRAFT C2SZ 9A586 D Rettor Tune Up kit for the C4AZ DG, and haven't as yet looked at any of the parts other than seeing them through the cellophane, BUT all of the parts of the DG that could be cleaned have been meticulously dealt with, and are pristine as far as condition. It doesn't have a "PonyCarb" appearance, but is rather really industrial looking.

Once the rebuild is done, there is going to have to be some serious work related to the DG done.

As you know, the Choke Mechanism on a 64 "P" Code involves a tube coming from the passenger side Exhaust Manifold to the Choke Housing.

Also, the method of maintaining the heat on the Choke Cap Spring is done by having a hose between the Water Pump (more on this a bit further on) and the Heater Core, held next to the Choke Cap by a bracket, which is present with the DG that is on hand.

On the 3.14, the Heater Core is a leaker, and needs to be fixed, or replaced, and at present is out of the loop as far as heating the carburetor is concerned. The Holley 4150 that is on the vehicle has an electric choke heater. All of this will be eventually straightened out and be done right as time, funding, and physical energy permit.

So the problem that we are now having is finding the little "Brillo pad" type insert that goes into the Exhaust Manifold, and the keeper that holds it in place.

There is apparently also another piece called a Choke Heat Chamber Assembly C3AZ 9890A that goes into the top(?) of the Exhaust Manifold to which the insulated (insulated with C1AE 9865A) tube fits. I've never personally seen any of this equipment.

The question is: Could this possibly be the Brillo Pad thing that we seek?

Greg Donahue has it for $49.00, plus the insulation for the tube for another $8.00, which seems to me to be quite pricey for aught but a fitting.

About the Water Pump: This is the original unit that was on the engine when it was rebuilt in 1989. Am in the process of completely cleaning it back to the original casting, and plan to obtain a rebuild kit for it, and doing the rebuild myself. It will entail having a machine shop do the pressing "out" and "in" of the bearing, and impeller, but that is preferable to risking the sending it off to somewhere.

Am also doing a complete cleaning of the original (upsidedown) A (rightsideup) AA Solid Lifter Cam, though it will not be reinstalled, but will rather be more of a display item. I'll be sure to supply YOU with a JPG of the finished display.

Anyway, thank you so very much for taking the time to look this up for us, and for your VERY welcome information.

Will be in touch.

Regards,

JCAllison