Tag C6AF F ( it is a 1.08 venturi carb)

Foot 6AF California emissions carb ??



Front jets 48F Rear jets 67F.( the span between front and rear seems large to me )



Is this correct ??



I have a 1966 body and air horn off of a 289 Mustang, no insides.

I dont suppose I could use the 6AF insides in the bare body succesfully ???











1966 4100 1.12 off of a 352 Galaxie

Tag C6AF L

Foot 6AL



What are the correct jet size's ??



Also, this carb will be going on a .040 over 9.5 to 1 390 FE engine with a 464 lift-- 206 duration @.050 cam.



Will I need to modify the carb ???





Oh, I forgot...who sells jets for 4100 carbs..1965 and up
models.

The earlier 4100 carbs have Holley threads...yes ???




Regards and thanks for all the help you guys give !!!





Richard.

First C6AF-F is indeed a 66 Galxie california emissions carburetor and YES those are the correct jet sizes 48 primary 67 secondary, and that along with the jet sizes of the other carb you asked about should give you an answer to your next question. OF course the cute answer and I know I will have people write me back and tell me so... is of course you can use that body since EVERYTHING will fit in it. But if course the real answer is no, that body is set up for those particular boosters and work in conjunction with that jetting and the passages that are cut into that particular body that act as the air bleeds and limiting bleeds along with the fuel passages. It all works together to form the complete package for a particular body/transmission and emission style and if you change anything you really have no idea how it will work better or worse, and quite honestly niether can anybody else (myself included) since there is no data available as to the rest of the package, There really is no data even available as to the flow rates or specifications of the boosters other than a part number for some models. Trust me I have been looking for this and it would be the holy grail of autolite carburetors. And no, today I am not even going to comment on people or persons who claim to have this information. Think of matching and combining carburetor parts and Frankenstiening and you will have a clear picture, You can easily get them to all fit together and you might even be able to get it to start and run (What specs are you going to use to bench-set it), but it might be scary and you might cause some significant problems by turning it loose (Just the thought of a lean condition on an engine is enough to give me the goose bumps). And the real worse part is you have no idea what is coming or what you are creating. I obviously don't recommend it but not for the above reasons (if thats not enough) these days a completed 4100, brings some good coin (as evidenced from E-bay) even if its just a california emissions carb.

Secondly A C6AF-L is a 66 galaxie carburetor for a 390/428 and the jetting is 48 for the primary and 55 for the secondary, big difference from the california emission carb, because of course it is calibrate to flow and act completely differently.

Since carburetors CFM is really based on the amount of air an engine can pump at a given volemetric efficiency and rpm, that then comes into play. You are changing the pump size by overboring it 0.040 and you are making it more efficient with your upped compression ratio and larger cam. But you are probably not changing the operating RPM significantly (I am still assuming it is intended for the street/mild race). So I am still assuming it will not be seeing 6000 grand very much and when it does, only for a bit. Personally I think the 600 CFM carb will be just perfect for an FE engine up through 428 operating within 600 grand and spending most of its life cruising at 1500 to 3500, maybe (and that has more to do with your head/valve combination and exhaust system) you will be sacrificing a bit on the top end, but your off idle throttle response will be very snappy, rather than slushy. Which personally is the way I like to build those FE engines but then again I play in the galaxie, truck and t-bird arena and like to get that 2 tons of steel moving, I like to see them launch off the line rather than play catch-up down the street. Different strokes for different folks.

As far as the jets, up to 63 they were all holley style, after 64 they were all Motorcraft/Autolite Style. Any carb shop should be able to get them, I frequently see them on E-bay (although like all E-bay items these days I feel they are overpriced at around 10.00 for a pair). You still might be able to find them at your FORD dealership although they have been discontinued for awhile and any remaining supply is likely to be very limited.

Whew, Did I get them all answered.

Hope that helped,

Good luck.

Let me know if you do the frankencarb :o)

Bill White
White Automotive

Hi Bill, yes..you answered all of my questions...as usual !!

You are a wealth of info, is there anything I can do to help you out ???


The Emissions carb I bought for parts, the idle screw boss is broken off.
It has the bosses for auto choke but it has a manual choke lever with a swivel and screw for holding a choke cable wire.
It is good shape other than that.

?t=1233260103



?t=1233260118


On the .040 over 390, yes it will be mild street.

Comp Cams Hi Energy 252 hydraulic
468 lift..... 206 dur. at .050..... 800 to 4800 RPM.

I have log exhaust and a set of 1 3/4" tube headers also.
Edelbrock Performer 390 intake.

D2 heads with bowl work, stock valves.

1965 short wheelbase F-100, 3 on the column, 3.25/3.00/3.275 9" rear, 29" tall tire on rear.

Truck weighs 3780 with the cast iron intake.

It should run mice on the street.

Regards and thanks Bill !!!

Thanks for the site ED !!


Richard.

Its good competition for those "mouse" motors (chev small blocks are commonly called "mouse" motors in deference to the "rat" motors which are the big blocks chevs.

Yea that 66 carb has obviously been tweaked at one time or another......it didn't come that way thats for sure.

My very first "car" at 14 was a 65 full bed truck, when I was done with it 4 years later it was running a full race 427, on friday nights I would change it out, at the service station I worked at, to tunnel port heads with dual quads so I could hit the high school drags on Saturday nights, and then back again on Sundays to the single four with medium riser CJ heads, of course on Fridays when I was off work, I would go looking for unsuspecting "Mice". Use to put it consistently into the low 11's. It would hook solid. (hehehe my therapist tell me thats what started my addiction........)

I have been looking for a short wheel flare side 65/66 for a special project. Been toying with something for the last 2 years and just biding my time for the right body to pass me by.

You should have no problems with that carb!!! I ran a 1.12 during the week on mine and it still caught more than a few "mice" unaware even with the single mousetrap.

Bill White
White Automotive

http://fordtruk.com/forums/index.php?sid=a313e0ea834e21e28a2d478c8dc52e04

We have a lot of members in the US and Canada.

If you ever need help with parts we will help you out.

That sounded like a nice first "Car" you had.

You have me thinking....I am going to need a second truck for a stroker engine...


Regards.


Richard.

Just spent a few hours looking and reminiscing, I did mine bak in the late 70's when we had no resources like this. I might have to try to find an old picture of it.

I am looking for a 65/66 cab and bed (preferably a step side short box) but, definetely could use a bare cab for my upcoming project. Would also consider a 64 cab as well. Can be any shape but would prefer uncut and clean.

Keep your ears and eyes out for one preferably in the pacific NW.

Bill White
White Automotive