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2150 Motorcraft carb stalls when I stop

July 9 2009 at 2:05 PM
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SPLUHAR  (Login SPLUHAR)
from IP address 74.176.202.236

 
Rough idle, also. I have the idle cranked up to 1500 in park, 900 in drive, trying to over come it, but hasn't helped. It does this in neutral and in drive, but not when slowing, only when the car comes to a full stop. It does not stall when I am just sitting there, w/ my foot on the brakes. It does not stall or sputter/surge on turns or accelerating. It started to do this all of a sudden about 2 weeks ago. There have been periods when it has ran similarly (rough idle/stalling). Idle drops from 650 to about 450 (irratic). It usually lasts several weeks, then goes away and runs great for 2-3 months. During those periods, I've rebuilt the carb, pulled all of the choke stuff off and plugged the holes. I haven't done anything with the trottle shaft, and the float is origional. Car is 1976 Ford Elite, 400m 2bbl auto. I'm trying to avoid large outlay of money because I will be swapping the motor w/ a '71 429 eventually.


    
This message has been edited by SPLUHAR from IP address 74.176.202.236 on Jul 9, 2009 2:11 PM


 
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24.23.235.202

Boosters or EGR valve

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July 10 2009, 10:31 AM 

Did you take the booster assy out of the carb, clean it in thinner or other, and blast away with compressed air?
Sounds like dirt in the booster idle circuits, a familiar problem and it can come-and-go as you say.

It's good to have a spare carb, just about any clean 2100 from the 1960s-1970s would "run" on there as a spare to check things out, they are not that pricey at swap meets.

Also, how about the EGR valve?
Of all the smog stuff I remember from the 1970s, that was the most troublesome. The vac hoses and Thermactor were fairly troublefree, and the Thermactor did not even draw significant power below 6000 anyway (the belt size is a hint). I always liked the 351m/400 Thermactor because it was internally plumbed so not cluttered, and it made the engine look like a Cobra Jet with the silver valve up front, LOL.

But the EGR gets all kind of crud in it and can either stop working (vacuum failure) or just stick open or stick open sometimes. See if you can get rid of the EGR valve or block it fully and see if the problem goes away. If you need to be "smog legal" you might need a new EGR valve, worth it to avoid that wild card.

 
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SPLUHAR
(Login SPLUHAR)
74.176.202.236

Re: Boosters or EGR valve

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July 10 2009, 1:45 PM 

Egr passage under carb is blocked off, no belt on the thermactor pump. Both are as I bought the car 2 1/2 years ago. I'll try cleaning the boosters this weekend and comment on Monday. Thanks.

 
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SPLUHAR
(Login SPLUHAR)
74.176.202.236

Re: Boosters or EGR valve

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July 13 2009, 10:14 AM 

I pulled the booster assembly on Saturday and found a split in one of the tubes on the bottom, running almost the entire length.

 
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