So, we just rebuilt our first carburetor and now we are having a few lingering issues. It is a Motorcraft 2 barrel, either a 2100 or 2150, noone seems to know for sure which. When I start it up, there is a high pitched whine that doesn't stop, but cuts down for a second when you rev the engine.
I also have a vacume port on the top of the carb just behind the choke, that I can't seem to find the hose that was attached to it. I have an image showing a hose on it, but haven't gotten to the point of uploading. I checked to see if the whine stopped when I covered that port and it made no difference. So, the two don't seem to be related.
Just to add to it, the timing seems to be off a little, but the distributor seems to be frozen. I removed the pressure screw and plate, but it wouldn't move. Is there something else I need to be loosining? If it is frozen, how do I break it free?

Every time I've had a whine or whistle like that at idle (many times) and it goes away with some throttle, it is a base vacuum leak. Due to the "open" casting on the 2100 and 4100, the gasket and spacer and intake have to match up just right so no air can leak in. If it is a bad leak, it won't even idle. But just a little leak, it will whistle like that.

The hole at the back, does it lead to vacuum or into the air horn? It could be a fresh air pickup for the fresh air tube that goes to the choke stove?

Stuck distrib, wow I don't know. Soak in pen. oil, using a hammer is scary because if you break the distrib then you are really stuck. What bout running it with the bolt and clamp loose (or out?) The engine vibrations might help loosen it up over time? Worst that can happen, it will start to spin the distrib and retard it. That happened to me once at the strip when I left the bolt loose (duh!) But, the car chugged back to the pits ok.

You can often find a vacuun leak by using an UN-lit propane torch...crack open the valve and point it all around the base of carb at idle.