I have a 1964 Ford 4100, 1.12 bore, on my 1965 Mustang 289 with Hi-Po cam and Ford aluminum hi-rise manifold. I can't get the secondaries to open once the engine is started. They open fine when engine is stopped. I did notice that the ball check was missing but that should only make them open faster, if my thinking is right. My question is if I need the ball check where can I buy one and if not what is causing them not to open when engine is running?
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the secondary's operation while driving, or by blipping the throttle? They won't open under a low-load(low-vacuum) condition, as in revving the engine in neutral, so you might want to try Werby's suggestion as he(she?)...hopefully NOT he/she...outlined in a recent post. You can also disconnect the secondary actuating arm from either the diaphram lever or throttle plate. This will allow you to view the operation of the secondary diapram while leaning over the engine at idle and during decceleration(highest vacuum). At least you will find out where the problem is...diaphram, or throttle plate sticking.
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I have talked to a Ford carb "specalist" and he says all the guys who raced these carbs used mechanical linkage, that you could buy through Ford dealers. Does anybody know about these or know of where I can find one? I talked to Pony and they said that vacuum is the only way to go but that there will always be a slight delay on secondaries kicking in. The carb specalist did say the same thing that you would blow the engine before secondaries opened in your driveway, so thanks Lee.
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I would take the relatively easy steps to diagnose/correct the secondary problem and stick with the vacuum secondaries. The stock 289 HiPo used your same set-up, so why not get it dialed in? Racing doesn't require the same "driveability" as a road-going car, so forcing the secondaries open, whether the engine is ready or not, might give you less than pleasing street driveability, not to mention fuel economy. In fact, I'm not sure you really have a problem anyway since you haven't talked about the street manners of the carb. Are we sure the secondaries ARE malfunctioning? Have you tried removing the actuating arm as a test? Have you tried the "paper clip test" as Werbyford described it?
You can also take the top off the carb and then suck on the secondary vacuun port to verify proper operation. They should open with no problem just placing your mouth or a rubber hose over the port and sucking(after opening the primary throttle plate, of course).
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Well the tube trick worked and secondaries opened right up. I still don't have the ball check but they did close on there own. I am going to install back on car and give it a try. Lee, thanks again for responding. You saved me a ton of money.
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Hi You Guys, I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but for what it's worth; I learned on this site over and over again that 1.12 carbs seldom work on small blocks, even those that have been modified such as yours. Secondary problems are, in fact one of the most common complaints. From the guys who run this site I have learned a great deal about these carbs. For example, even the 1.12 Hi-Po carbs and the 1.12 Big Block carbs are configured differently as to interior passages etc. This is not to say they, 1.12's, can't be made to work on small blocks but I would bet you would be much more satisfied with a 1.08. Just a thought, and I wish you GOOD LUCK! Kind Regards, TOM
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By all means still try the paper clip test when you take the car out, that way you can tell for sure if they opened, and even how FAR they are opening.
A word of caution, once the secondaries open out there on the road, they do have to close again. The only thing that closes them is that 45-year old nylon pin sticking out on the choke side. These get brittle and snap off, leaving the secondaries stuck wide open on the road. Not a good thing. I always replace that pin with something made from a structural material like steel. I'd rather put up with a little wear than have that pin snap off at high speed.
As for the 1.12, if you have the hipo cam and hirise intake, especially with headers, you are likely near 300hp and definitely want at least the 1.12 carb - I'd even try a 550 or 600 Holley if you can borrow one some time for the strip, though for a daily driver I like the 4100 a lot better.
Our 289 only makes about 220-230hp and it turns its best Gtech times with the 1.12 carb of all the ones we've tried including the original 1.08.
PS Lee yes, WerbyFord is a he, but Werby's Wife also races now and then and knows how to get a choke plate unstuck too.
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But first to see if the secondary is opening, slip a paper clip onto the rod from the secondary housing to the throttle. Slip it on parallel to the float so it is up against the back of the float bowl. Then, as the secondary opens, the rod moves and the paper clip will either move or "turn" so it will be at an angle when you check it again after flooring it. If it's still parallel and against the float bowl, the secondaries didn't open.
You could try it manually with the engine off - open the secondary say half way, then let it close, note the position of the paper clip, etc. Then you can tell about how far it opened up when you floored it out on the road.
I always paper clip my vac sec Holleys and 4100s now, this is such a handy test.
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