Mitsubishi build thier own turbo's so your local dealer shoud have them. There is always the states if you don't mind the wait for shipping etc. Oscar will be able to help you and DON'T believe the stuff about him running off with your cash. I've bought loads of stuff from Oscar and it's good stuff and he's an honest bloke who has given me much advice for free to boot. His e-mail is
oscardortega@yahoo.com or oscar-the-grouch@sbcglobal.net As i said, he's trust worthy it's a change in the USA's shipping costs thats caused all the rumors.
Thanks Brendan....
I appreciate the support and kind words YOU and the others here that have backed up my trade/sale ethics on this forum. I know its hard to trust someone overseas you've never met but I think I have done pretty good in the past few years.
Hello Rob
Mate a turbo swap is not a big deal. If you are swaping an original for an original just because its bad then its an EASY job. NO special tools are needed and only TWO metal gasgets are needed ONLY if you need to change the exhaust side of the turbo if NOT then NO gasgets are needed.
1- Remove the water and oil lines from the center section.
2- Disconnect all hoses and intake pipes from the turbo's inlet side
3- Remove the "C" clamp that holds the center of the turbo to the exhaust side. (Use a hammer to TAP the compressor side off to remove it as it WILL be stuck a bit from the heat) You DONT need to remove the exhaust side if its in good nick. This step will save you the need to replace the exhaust side gasgets and about 20 minutes of work. AGAIN this is ONLY if you DO NOT have an exhaust side leak or if the exhaust housing is in good nick ONLY. If you HAVE to replace the exhaust side of the turbo then this step will make the nuts on the manifold easier to reach and remove.
4- Replace the Oil FEED line with a NEW ONE or clean your old one VERY VERY VERY good, run solvent through it, run a small brush through it JUST MAKE sure its clean and free from ANY foreing object before you re install it IF you are reusing the old one and IF its in good nick also with no leaks. Its NOT recomended to use the OLD line BUT if you MUST just MAKE SURE its CLEAN INSIDE CANT stress this enough !
5- Re-install all things you took off earlier. Start with the "C" clamp, make sure the cartridge is aligned properly and as you tighten the "C" clamp it will self align the rest of the way.
6- BEFORE you start the car, you MUST prime the oil pump and make sure the turbo has oil BEFORE the motor starts. Do as follows... Disconnect either the Injectors or the fuel pump so NO fuel will go in the motor, thus preventing it from starting. Crank the motor 3 or 4 times and aprox. 5 seconds each time. This will PUMP oil throught the turbo without starting the engine and without spining the turbo. Reconnect the fuel inj or the pump and start motor and check for leaks.
You may get some oil burning for the first day or so as its NORMAL with ANY turbo swap, BUT if you still burn or smell burning oil after a week check for leaks AGAIN.
Let us know if you have any problems.
Cheers and GOOD luck
Oscar
Hi Rob,
If all you need is the metal gasket that fits between the turbo & the exhaust manifold then simply try your local turbo repair specialist. I have 1 here in nottingham who usually keeps them in stock http://www.midlandturbo.com
Regards
mark
i dont know why people dont try them more often.i rebuilt a 2.0 widebody last year and they supplied every part i asked for,including some very obscure bits.at worst you have a wait of 10 days or so from japan
give them a bit more credit.admittadly they probably wont have heard of a starion but with a bit of persistance you can get the help you need.