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YAY! I made my first Delrin bolt tonight!!

by

Boy it feels good to make something cool yourself


Here's the Spyder bolt I made:






Not bad for my first bolt, made without the benefit of a lathe, mill, or even drill press! I made this bad boy with only a drill, a vise, a file, and a dremel.

I found out there is a plastics supply store across the street from the industrial park where I work. I started with 3/4" diameter bar of Acetal (Delrin) stock. I jury-rigged a way to chuck it into the drill, and I used a rag on my leg and a file... I spun the rod while pushing down on it with the file against the rag to stabilize it.

This way, I turned down the diameter of the back small enough to fit loosely. Then I did the front of the bolt more carefully, checking to see if it would fit often. When it fit in the breech without binding but without any extra space, I stopped.

The rest I free-handed with the drill and a dremel. The air transfer hole is at a 45 degree angle. You can see where I marked the air inlet area with a Sharpie. A set loc-tited screw holds the link pin in, and the slot for the detent is dremeled.

It took me about 2 hours to make. Now for the best part: The performance! The whole reason I made this bolt is because the breech is larger than usual in this Spyder, and every bolt I have tried fits too loosely. A stock Spyder bolt with o-rings has so much blow-by up the feed tube that it would shoot the next ball about 6 feet up in the air. With this bolt, when I fire, the next ball BARELY jumps up about 1/4 inch! It doesn't even hop up enough to jump out of the feed neck! I'm very pleased!

I shot a hopper of paint and didn't get any breaks with this new bolt, so I'm thinking that the problem just might be solved! So what do you guys think of my ghetto-rigged bolt? Why is it that I can make a better bolt without the right machines than Kingman made with their fancy equipment?

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 7:44 PM

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Very nice, Hellbore! How'd you chuck it up, though?

by

Good job, Hellbore. Outsmarted yourself. How did you chuck it up? I've got a drill press with a 5/8" chuck and some 3/4" delrin and nylon stock that needs some turning. Drop me a line, man. Beat the system. lol. Hellrazor out.

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 8:02 PM

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Here's how I chucked it up (please try not to laugh)

by

The chuck on my drill is less than 1/2 inch

This is how I chucked it up:
I have Kapp dropzone econo tank adapter:

Into one end I screwed a 2 inch brass 1/8 NPT thread pipe. Then I chucked the brass pipe into the drill.
Then, I took one end of the acetal rod and wrapped it with a few layers of aluminum tape, until it was a little too big to fit into the ASA. Then I force-threaded it into the ASA, so that the ASA threads cut into the metal tape.

Not it was pretty snug in there, so I reinforced it by wrapping duct tape on where the ASA and rod go together. Then I proceeded to turn down the back end of the bolt until it fit well.

Then I just took all the tape off and repeated the process on the other side of the bolt.

I think the key to making it work is not putting lateral stress on the part as it spins. This is why I layed it on my leg on a terry cloth. When I would push down on the spinning rod with the file, it would press against the rag on my leg, so I was never really putting lateral pressure on it against the drill, the drill was only spinning the part, not having to stabilize it laterally.

It's not the right way to do it but it worked great so who cares?

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 8:15 PM

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I did laugh, but that's quite ingenious, kudos! NT

by Canuck

nt

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 9:01 PM

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One thought on why normal Spyder bolts are so loose

by The Inflicted

The Syder is the one paintball gun I've known that will actually jam. If the bolt ever does cut a ball, the Spyder's detent is designed in such a way that bits of shell often lodge themselves between the nubin tray and the bolt and lock the bolt in there, jamming the gun until massive force is applied in the staging area to dislodge the bolt. This is with the older-style wire-nubbin spyders, mind you, not with the newer ones with the ball detent design stolen from PMI's Piranha. Could be that using a slightler smaller OD bolt was Kingman's attempt to combat that problem, but after switching to the new sryle detens nad less-blowback forgiving vertical feeds that most Spyders come with these days, they kept the bolt the way it is.

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 9:09 PM

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It's not the only one...

by Canuck

The Zap Electro'll do it too.

Amazingly frustrtating.

I really need a new bolt for this beast.

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 9:14 PM

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Cockers will also

by

I have a DYE cocker here ive been working on the bolt jamed and he used a screwdriver and hammer to unstick it. Ive see people treat BE better than this was treated. Frigin makes me sick to see a markers treated like this. Also he also tried to pry the back block free.

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 9:39 PM

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Spyder nubbins

by

The Spyder has run the rubber nubbin since day one. PMI took the spyder and attempted to cure the problems with the original and succeeded pretty well.

PMI copied Kingman, not the other way round.

Have a great Day!





E-mail Punisher


Posted on Jan 9, 2003, 12:25 AM

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Not always true...

by

My wife has a spyder (I tried to convince her to get a pmi) and she got a ball break in there once that was an absolute mess, paint and shell bits everywhere. I think it happened when she was shooting a long string of paint, she said she was shooting and had a couple of good shots, had a break and thought it was a barrel break so she kept shooting and a shot or two latter it froze up on her.

She came off the field and I took a look, there was a huge sliver of shell visible between the bolt and the inside of the body. I literally had to have one person grab the de-gassed gun and pull while I held onto the bolt, and I almost fell on my ass when it popped out!

I had thought there was not enough play in the breech as the bolt has scratches all over it, but obviously there is plenty of space in there.

Schmitti

Posted on Jan 9, 2003, 4:46 AM

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spyders never had wire detents...

by paul

always had the rubber nubbin thing since the beginning... they do jam like crazy though. when i had one it jammed twice on me (i only had it for half a year)

Posted on Jan 9, 2003, 10:34 AM

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Luckily...

by

...they don't jam if you don't break paint My LP spyder hasn't broken a ball yet since its overhaul a few cases ago...

Posted on Jan 9, 2003, 10:38 AM

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Perhaps

by

I've experienced the jamming myself, only a couple times in more than 5 years (I have an older spyder) and I've seen it a couple times in newer spyders that belong to other people. But it didn't always seem to be stuck by the detent. Sometimes I could see the offending shell by looking into the feed tube. Personally I think its just poor engineering.

Posted on Jan 9, 2003, 12:19 PM

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RPS Paintballs and DYE boomsticks

by

Just wondered if anyone has noticed. Does it seem like RPS painballs are getting smaller? I havent shot RPS last year but started shooting it again and now my boomstick's bore is too big and the balls rollout.
Well it looks like its time for a Evil pipe or freak system.

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 7:41 PM

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maybe it's just getting colder

by Maus

It's funny how Big Ball is one of the smallest RPS paints

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 8:37 PM

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team colors is doing the same thing

by kevin

team colors was like a 682 seems like alot of paint is being really incosistant with there size
ive been using blaze in my bigshot for awhile with alot of success

Posted on Jan 9, 2003, 9:24 AM

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SPACEMAN!!! can you email me?

by

I havea few SMC questions, and I havebeen raking my brain trying to figure them all out. Prowler sugested I ask you, somethign about you being an expert with SMC valves.

Any ways, if you could drop me an email, and I will get iintouch with you that way. No need to cluter the board with stuff you have explained 1000 times.

Thanks

Bartman
Team I have no idea
www.ihni.org


Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 6:39 PM

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expert?

by Spaceman!

I know two things... jack and schitt, and Jack just left town.

email incoming

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 7:34 PM

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question for angel lovers....

by tom

ive basically been looking in to getting one seriously now and notice they hvae a thermometer. digital of course any one know where the sensor is? im just kind of curious.

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 6:35 PM

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wild guess :)

by Tom Sparkman

On the board inside the grip.

Tom

Posted on Jan 9, 2003, 8:02 AM

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It is great ! you can see if you are running a fever :) <NT>

by Odder

LOL

Posted on Jan 9, 2003, 12:59 PM

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question on the original splat master

by

how does it actually work, i heard you push a button on the back to load, andd then i heard you pull back on the bolt. In short i have no idea how one works so explain it to me.


aut

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 5:21 PM

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Alright! I can finally answer something!

by

First, here is an animation made for me by Meph.



Second, if you still need more information, go over to my web site, The Splatmaster Owners Group.

www.splatmaster.s5.com

Good Luck!

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 5:36 PM

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Oops, the above link doesn't work.

by

First, here is an animation made for me by Meph.

www.angelfire.com/80s/splatmaster/splat_animation.gif

Second, if you still need more information, go over to my web site, The Splatmaster Owners Group.

www.splatmaster.s5.com

Good Luck!

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 5:37 PM

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Re: Oops, the above link doesn't work.

by Anonymous

thanks for the info, it really helped alot.


aut

Posted on Jan 9, 2003, 4:00 PM

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Recovering a Guild post...

by Otter Bob

Anyone have the link to the thread about the artillery silencer?

Thanks,
Otter

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 4:17 PM

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OT, ..DV8 Bushy for sale in the clasifieds,,

by

http://www.network54.com/Hide/Forum/message?forumid=73032&messageid=1042069646

thanks for looking

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 3:02 PM

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Rippering question

by Jim

Well just a question about the rt mags and emags. Ill post a picture with a ripper concept. Never holding a emag and just working off automags.org posted files. Can the back be open as much as I made it? dont know where the airsupplies are and where the seals are. Can you basicaly have it all open behind the first 36 degree call out on their prints?

www.cnc-machining.com/emag1.jpg
www.cnc-machining.com/emag2.jpg

Jim Eaton

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 2:39 PM

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Well...

by Conqueror

That front hole might not work, as it might intrude into the space wherein the bolt rides back and forth (a bad thing). Take a look at the new X-Mags for an idea of how far forward you can cut.

CQ

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 3:19 PM

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The E-mag:

by

Well, actually all 'Mags have a self-contained airsystem. It's all in the AIR valve/regulator assembly. All you have to watch out for is that you don't want to poke through up where the bolt travels, otherwise significant amounts of as-shot air will be vented and lost each time it fires.

Those look okay, but which is the front and what's the back? It needs to "taper" towards whichever end is the front, more noticibly.

Doc.

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 3:19 PM

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At last! A Ripper Emag.

by JanSolo

I've been waiting for ages for some cool Ripper milling for the new Alu-Mags.

I think Ripper milling is the best!

Posted on Jan 9, 2003, 2:12 AM

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Very nice! But...

by

I like it!

From the looks of it, if you are working from the slug body file, the front hole will break open into the body area.

You don't want to cut through the body any further forward than 36.3mm forward from the back edge, as that's where the valve ends and the bolt cavity starts.

It's one of the things people criticised on the C&C. They don't want any access into where the bolt is. (there isn't on the C&C but they thought there was a few mm gap due to the front of the valve being chamfered).

It looks like it would work without that hole though.

If you make the slug yourself you can make it longer and have cut outs all down the back along the valve as per the long cut through down the side of the C&C.

Are you going to be cutting it on a 4 axis mill?

The one thing I don't like about the current slug bodies is that they do not cover the back of the valve. Apparently the next batch will.

Can't wait to see it cut. Now what are you going to do the rail to complement the body?

manike

Posted on Jan 9, 2003, 2:39 AM

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well

by

I like the idea, but as manike said, you can pretty much cut away everything BUT the bolt tube. that has to stay. I like the design though

Oh, and manike, is there a reason the CnC XMags have the alum on the top of the valve...ill see if i can get a pic soon and edit it to show you what im talking about...but its hte aluminum on top of the XValve...i dont see why its needed

Posted on Jan 9, 2003, 4:35 AM

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The reason that aluminium is there....

by

Is because it looks cool

At least I thought so...

There are some other ones possibly in the future that won't have it. But at the time I designed the C&C the SFL was out and it was cut away on that one.

I try very hard NOT to repeat what others have done. It's why I did something very different to the SFL and it's why I wouldn't copy the ripper even though I got numerous requests.

I'm really glad a ripper is coming out... although I would rather it were on the X-mag body than the slug one.... (more body to use and more opportunities to cut into the tube design as per the Angel Ripper in mhy opinion) I e-mailed you about doing that Jim a long time back but got no reply? oh well it's cool to see this one on it's way

manike

Posted on Jan 9, 2003, 4:41 AM

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Re: The reason that aluminium is there....

by Anonymous

"I try very hard NOT to repeat what others have done. "

This has to be the hardest part in creating any guns look.

"I'm really glad a ripper is coming out... although I would rather it were on the X-mag body than the slug one.... "

Wel only reason i started working on the slug, Was someone emailed me about the dwg files on air gun sight. I knew nothing about it. So i started to fiddle with a computer render. I dont follow up on auto mags so I thought i would give it a try.


"I e-mailed you about doing that Jim a long time back but got no reply? "

How long ago? I did have a serious email problem. Virus sneaking pass the protection and destroying my drive. I usualy try to respond to everyone. Even though I bet my emails that are incoming could rival docs 8)

Jim


Posted on Jan 9, 2003, 6:06 AM

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Absolutely!

by

I agree, it's actually very hard to define a guns 'look'.

Some of the ones I have done have been hated (aztec etc. hehehe)

I e-mailed you about it months and months ago after I posted some pics of my manik-e-mag and you said you liked it

If you look at a later image of the manik-e-mag..



You can see where with the X-mag body you could mill into the inner 'barrel tube' like with the Angel body AND have cut throughs to the valve at the back like the Timmy Ripper (love it BTW! I'm thinking about getting one or an Ironman...)

I'm over at AGDE to hopefully finish off my gun this weekend, and we could discuss it again. Maybe if you want to e-mail me a phone number we could drop you a line?

It would be a gorgeous gun to do it on, and think the ripper look would work well on the extreme because you can mill all of the body height (you don't have to worry about the bottom tubes as per the angel) and because you could have cut outs to the inner valve/tube also

manike

Posted on Jan 9, 2003, 6:18 AM

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Re: Absolutely!

by Anonymous

Heh you ever play bridge builder game?

http://www.bridgebuilder-game.com/

I am thinking with your structural ribbing we will be able to get a freight train over it 8)

Jim

p.s. Manike just drop me another email. that way I can give you my home number.





Posted on Jan 9, 2003, 6:56 AM

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Yeah I love bridgebuilder...

by

That's not all that's removed from the body, there is even more from the top and front now! You can't believe how light it is, and hopefully still strong! As I said I'm hoping to finish it this weekend.

I would e-mail you if you posted it up ... mine is under my nick. I'll go see if I can find your site somewhere to grab it...

manike

Posted on Jan 9, 2003, 6:59 AM

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email

by jim

thought everyone and their mom had my email, seems like it with the 300 a day emails practicaly 8) (we1l at its peak 300 normaly 100 a day)

Jim@cnc-machining.com



Posted on Jan 9, 2003, 7:28 AM

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e-mails sent (nt)

by



Posted on Jan 9, 2003, 4:46 PM

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Is it just me...

by CRySyS

or is that rear end assymetrical?

Posted on Jan 10, 2003, 8:01 AM

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Very well spotted :) You win a cookie...

by

Yes, at one side the struts can be in place but on the other side it is strutted differently to allow for the air fitting on the valve to slide into place, otherwise there would be a clash condition.

So yes it is assymetric at the rear

Good spot.

manike

p.s. Jim I e-mailed you. No reply as yet...

Posted on Jan 10, 2003, 8:06 AM

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4th axis yes

by Jim

"Are you going to be cutting it on a 4 axis mill?"

Yea have 3 horizontals now, so always need to keep the little piggies fed 8)

Guess someday i should update my main site.

Jim

Posted on Jan 9, 2003, 7:08 AM

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Quick Question

by

Jim do you use mastercam to do your models and rip your code or something else?


Posted on Jan 9, 2003, 11:44 AM

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Docs satco 700 article, wheres it at? (nt)

by

supercalifragileisticexpialodocious.....

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 1:30 PM

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http://www.docsmachine.com/tech/satco700.html nt

by paul

http://www.docsmachine.com/tech/satco700.html

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 3:15 PM

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thanks..........(nt)

by



Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 4:21 PM

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Changing the threads on a barrel

by Canuck

I'm having a decidedly difficult time finding a barrel that fits my marker.

So, if I were to have another barrel machined that it would fit in my marker, what kind of barrel would I pick up that would have enough 'meat' to have the threads put in?

It's threads have basically the same specs as Spyder barrels, but the thread is different (I don't recall the pitch/tpi at this time, but they're the same as on a Tigershark) The thread is the same OD as Spyder barrels, and the sleeve before the threading is the same length.

If you're wondering, it's a Zap electro. (Yes, I'm fully aware of the medicore-ness of this marker, which is why I'm doing what I'm doing.)



Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 11:54 AM

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OT: Chemistry/Physics

by Ratfink

Why does a glass thermometer reading drop slightly before rising when you, lets say put it in hot water?

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 11:52 AM

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Just a guess... :)

by

I'm probably wrong, but my guess is the heat causes minute expansion of the glass, which allows more room for the mercury, making the reading drop. Then, as the heat transfers through to the mercury, the mercury expands and the reading goes back up.



Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 11:59 AM

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Damn, I must've been reading your mind, HB...

by

Our reasoning is the same, and we even ended identically with "Am I right?"

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 12:01 PM

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Strange...

by

HB is Have Blue, but also could be HellBore... LOL
Are you sure we aren't the same person? How can you really be sure?

In all seriousness, you're much more knowledgeable than I am, so the fact that we guessed the same idea makes me feel smart LOL...

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 12:05 PM

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That, and we're both named Mike...

by

Maybe we were separated at birth

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 12:17 PM

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have you ever seen them in the same room???

by

I havent.

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 2:19 PM

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so, who's Devito and who's Schwartzenegger?

by sergi

hmmm. ?

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 6:57 PM

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My guess...

by

The hot water causes the glass to expand slightly before the heat reaches the mercury within. This expansion means a larger internal volume, and hence the mercury won't reach up as far as in a 'cold' glass.

Am I right?

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 11:59 AM

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without reading any other responses...

by Tom Sparkman

It's because the glass expands first.

Tom

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 2:27 PM

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Late as usual.... :) (nt)

by Tom Sparkman

Tom

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 2:29 PM

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A Spyder idea

by

Ok I have this crazy idea...

My theory is that there are 2 reasons Bushmasters and similar open-bolt markers don't blow air up the feed tube. One, the obvious reason, because the bolt fits better. Two, I think that the bolt is kept forward longer than on a Spyder.

With the short dwell on a stock, high-pressure spyder, and with the sudden high-pressure burst blowback gasses, I have a feeling that the breech stays closed a VERY short amount of time on a Spyder. I would think that the bolt and hammer kick back VERY quickly as soon as the valve is opened. I think that as a result, the bolt opens while there is still air pressure behind the ball and in the breech.

One reason I think this is because I took a bolt with o-rings and put it in this vert-feed Spyder, then put tape around the head of the bolt until the head of the bolt fit in the body tube without extra space for air to blow past. I observed no noticable decrease in gas blow up the feed tube... It looked to be just as bad as with the loose-fitting bolt and no tape.

This would lead me to believe that even with a tighter-fitting bolt, air still will blow up the feed neck because the bolt is opening too soon.

My crazy idea is shortening the valve pin. I could be wrong, but I don't think the valve opens all the way on a high-pressure Spyder, I would guess it opens a very little bit. If this is the case, there should be room to make the valve pin a bit shorter, allowing the bolt and hammer to be farther forward at the point where the valve is popped open. So, the breech would not open quite as soon, giving perhaps however many more milliseconds for the pressure to equalize in the breech before we open it to the feed neck.

I don't know if it would give enough results to be worthwhile, though. I'll have to try it. As part of the experiment, I will also enlarge the bolt's air transfer hole, because the bolt is going to be farther forward than usual when we open the vale, so the hole needs to still line up.

Any thoughts? Unless you guys are sure it won't help, I'll probably try it tonight when I get home from work.

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 11:39 AM

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Hmmm...

by

I have an old blowback Patriot, and its valve pin is half as short as the ones from my Rebel, Avenger, and Spyder.

And here's the best part: it doesn't have the problems you speak of, whereas the other Spyder clones do. Coincidence? I think not!

Shorten the pin, but remember: the shorter you go, the more you'll have to shorten or replace the spring.

My opinion- Splatty14

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 5:53 PM

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Also,

by goat


Keep in mind that if you are shortening the valve pin in theory you are allowing less time for the valve to be open and recock the hammer,might have to lengthen the main spring to if you remove a large enough chunk.
sounds like a good idea though keep me posted I still shoot a spyder and would like to know your results.
goat

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 6:26 PM

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Hey PbJosh, what's the status on the Mutant bolt?

by

Do you make them for Spyder yet? What sizes do they / will they come in? If you haven't started production yet, I think you should know that Spyder Compact 2000 and Spyder Sport markers have friggin oversized upper tubes and most bolts don't fit well at all...

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 10:09 AM

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Did you try a thicker o-ring? nt

by PistolPete

nt

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 10:20 AM

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Looking for a Mag twist lock to AutoCocker threads barrel adapter

by

Doc, I've seen your stainless steel Mag twist lock to autococker barrel adapters and I'm interested in one due to the fact that alot of the new barrel manufacturers seem to have no interest in making barrels for the Mag twist lock body. If you would be so kind as to email me with pricing info. I know many others on the Automags.org forum are also interested.

Thanks!

-Evil Bob

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 9:59 AM

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I would as well

by

id like an adapter as well mag to cocker
throw me a quote ffcocker@yahoo.com

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 10:02 AM

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Just read Doc's reply at Automags.Org....

by

Doc has a limited run setup with a CNC shop, the adpaters will be SS and fit on all left, right, and center feeds. Included is a built in ball detent (no more nubbins). Send him email with with the phrase "Automag barrel adapter" in the subject line if you are interested.

Here's the thread: http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=62916

-Evil Bob

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 10:27 AM

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OT, I have a laptop for sale in the classifiedds,,

by

please check out http://www.network54.com/Hide/Forum/message?forumid=73032&messageid=1042050090
for specs and info.

Thanks for looking


Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 9:27 AM

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Anybody know how to get in touch with Curt at KM2?

by

I've had no luck getting him via email, and somebody told me they left voice messages for him that never got returned. If anybody knows how to reach him, or if he and KM2 are still around, let me know. Thanks

-Styles

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 8:38 AM

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He'll respond here in time...

by

Of that I have little doubt. He is one of the regulars here. Strange e-mail has always worked for me with him though I know he is often very busy.

manike


Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 8:48 AM

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Vaccume caps needed

by

I'm looking for a supplier that would have rubber/elastic vaccume caps. I need them in about 1.25" to 1.50" ID, I have no idea where to find something like this. The automotive/hardware stores don't carry anything this large.

Any suggestions? Anything online?

Thanks
-Brad

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 7:24 AM

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how about egg cups?

by Pneuman


like you see on egg trasfer machines. accordion style that picks up one egg. made from rubber.

Posted on Jan 9, 2003, 1:33 PM

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Hmmm...

by BRacing

I have no idea what you're talking about, but i guess it could work. It has to be able to handle about 20" vacumme and 25psi.

Thanks
-Brad

Posted on Jan 9, 2003, 2:10 PM

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This one won't break 'em :o)

by

Go pump with that Spyder, this one seemed to shoot better after conversion:



Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 11:30 PM

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oops, that was for the Spyder thread, sorry (nt)

by

mama dropped me

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 11:32 PM

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does someone sell that kit?

by

That's really cool!

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 11:44 AM

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Not yet....

by

All you need is a spyder vertical adapter, sniper II pump kit, and a rear cocking bolt that has some meat on the back. Mill the hammer out so it catches the bolt pin going backwards only, and there ya go. The rod on it is from a KP, but it wouldn't be hard to fabricate one or use something else.

-styles

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 6:47 PM

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Yuu're forgetting the most important part.

by Canuck

You'd need a new valve pin, to stop the blowback action... actually, if anyone knows where I could find one of these, I'd be much obliged.

I was thinking of a different method.
Instead of having the cocking rod attached to the bolt, have it as a simple, straight rod. Leave the bolt attached to the hammer, and extend a flat panel out the side of the bolt. Now when the marker is pumped, the cocking rod pushes on the bolt's plate, cocking the marker, but leaving the bolt in an open position.

Voila, open-bolt pump. Give it a horizontal feed, and rock-and-cock is significantly easier, because you can cock it and THEN rock it, because the bolt stays open.

Only 2 other markers would be open bolt pumps, and that's the Splatmaster and the pump Automag.

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 9:12 PM

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A polar bear chiroprachtor?

by

"This won't hurt. Too much."

***CRUNCH***

"Gee, that feels better! Say, do you have a church key or a sardine can opener so I can undo my legs and walk to my car?"

"Oh, that's ok Sir. One more treatment and yu'll be aerodynamic enough for me to throw like a frisbee."

**shudder**

I've got a chiro. appointment tomorrow too, come to think of it...

-Tyger (Old man and the CO2...)

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 11:15 PM

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Gee Doc, I've got this really bad kink in my spine....

by

Heh heh heh.



-Badger-

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 11:54 PM

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Gee 'Badge, I seem to have a really big mallet here...

by

... Just lay on that table there while I get the pine tar and some good earplugs.



Doc.

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 12:58 AM

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Gee Doc, I didn't know you cared....

by

*said in a sarcastic voice..*

But t'is all in fun of course.


-Badger-

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 4:51 AM

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All fun...

by Dayne

...untill someone brings out the mallet

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 1:50 PM

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Hey Doc

by Tom Sparkman

If your tired of airsmithing, I've got a friend on the National Chiro board - A little something here and a little something there and we'll get you a sheepskin.

Always good to have another skill - too bad you don't have a retail store, you could practice on the customers.

Tom

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 7:59 AM

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Yeah, I can see it now- mallet rolfing!

by Ironbadger

Who needs swedish massage- Doc'll give 'em Alaska massage by gently tenderizing them with his gian mallet.....


-Badger-

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 9:08 AM

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I won't ask about "Shiatzu" style then...

by

**shiver**

I didn't think that the massage table was supposed to be a big wooden block....

-Tyger

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 9:11 AM

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my idea of a top gun with technology modifiers LONG

by Richter

I'll probably post this on a few other message boards to see what people think let me know: good idea or bad?
would yu play it?

Top gun with handicap modifiers

When people play top gun I usually think that people win partly on skill and more on luck especially with all the small fields that top guns are usually played on. So I thought what could make it a little more fair especially for the person with the mechanical blowback, pump players, stock class, or even the person with sidearms like the pt extreme. So I thoughtof a top gun for everyone's taste of technology/style could play. It is call right now as the top gun with handicap technology modifier.

The idea here a person can play with their electronic tourney marker with a pods but a person that wins with stock class PGP would get more points because it subjectively takes more skill to win with a stock class gun.

Technology/equipment accumulative modifier system

For each equipment modifier a person gets, that person gets to take his score and multiply it by .x modifier and then add this to his score.
Example:
A person receives a .1 modifier to his score; if he max his game which is 100 points he would then figure out he score by taking 100 x .1 = 10 and then add 10 to the score of 100 which equals 110:

100 score
x
0.1 modifier
----
10

100 + 10 = 110 total score with modifier

I have thought of 5 modifier that are possibly accumulative; meaning one can be add to another

Current modifier
1. .1 200 rounds/loader or less
2. .1 non-tournament marker/mechanical blowback
3. .1 horizontal feed
4. .1 pump marker
5. .1 stock class

Definitions of modifiers
200 rounds/loader or less
To receive this modifier you need a loader full of paint or 200 rounds. If loader doesn't hold 200 rounds then a person can bring the rest onto the field. If a loader holds more than 200 rounds then that loader is allowed. (example 240 dominator and the old VL3000) A warped feed is considered an extension of a loader. No non factory loaders or modified loaders to hold extra rounds; exception is the addition of a JT speed collar or loaders fitted for warpedfeed.

Non-tourney marker/mechanical blowback
To receive this modifier you need a non-tournament marker or a mechanical blowback. A tournament marker is defined as any marker that has an electronic trigger, any mechanical closed bolt marker (i.e. cocker or typhoon), or any mechanical blowforward marker (i.e. automag, desert fox) (others can be added) All electronic blowbacks are considered tournament markers

Horizontal feed
To receive this modifier needs to have a horizontal tube parallel to the barrel for feeding paintballs. The feed tube can hold any number of paintballs.( maybe need a stipulation) A horizontal feed can be a stick feed hook to a direct feed marker. Horizontal feed can have a spring loading device or can use gravity (rock to feed) this modifier is negated if said marker has a laoder some how attached(such as a custom horizontal feed maker with a warp feed attached)

Pump marker
To receive this modifier the marker must be pump. Pump are defined as markers that need to pump or cocker manually to feed a paintball into the breach before firing. Pumps markers can have autotriggers. All pump markers are considered non-tournament marker and will automatically receive non-tournament modifier unless the pump use pneumatic assisted pumping or cocking (i.e. super snipers and some other custom creations)

Stock class
To receive this modifier the marker must provide the following:
Pump action, as defined in the modifier above
Single 12 gram CO2 powerlet only; No check valves
Requires the removal (unscrewing) knob or housing to change the powerlet
(No lever changers.)
Horizontal feed as in above modifier but with a 20 round maximum if has vertical/direct feed, 10 round maximum. (Any configuration that allows more than one paintball to be stacked over the breech feed opening.)
must be manually tilted to insert the paintball ( rock and cock) no spring feed devices

Accumulative modifiers:
Markers receive accumulative modifiers if they meet the requirements of that modifier:
Marker examples:
Angel with a halo = .1 modifier (200 round/hopper modifier)
M3 Dragon with revolution = .1 modifier (200round/hopper modifier)
Spyder with a 3 pod pack = .1 modifier (non-tournament marker/mechanical blowback)
VM 68 with VL2000 = .2 modifier (non-tournament marker and 200 round)
PT extreme = .3 modifier (non-tournament marker, 200 round, horizontal feed)
SL68II 200 round loader on co2 = .3 modifier (non-tournament, 200 round, pump)
Automag sidearm = .2 (200round, horizontal feed)
Sniper 2 on constant air with a PVC stick feed attached = .4 modifier
(200round, non-tournament, horizontal feed, pump)
ts1 select fire (semi only) loader adapter clip, vl revolution = .2 (200 round, non-tournament)
tippmann 98 warped feed with vl 3000 .2 (200 round/loader, non-tournament)
PGP = .5 modifier (200round, non-tournament, horizontal feed, pump and stock class)

Points matrix

Normal points:
(it's center flag top gun)
40 flag hang
30 flag pull
20 elimination
10 live player

Modifier
.0 .1 .2 .3 .4 .5
------------------------------------------------------
40 44 48 52 56 60 flag hang
30 33 36 39 42 45 flag pull
20 22 24 26 28 30 elimination
10 11 12 13 14 15 live player
--------------------------------------------------
100 110 120 130 140 150 Totals possible points for each modifier

2 of these tables would be on each score sheet for each player; all you have to do is circle the modifier and then circle

what each player did in the game

penalty points:

Wiping:
Consider fraudulent activity and ejection from the tournament with possible ineligibility to other tournaments

Playing on unobvious:
Automatic flag hang for opposition: possibility of unsportsmanlike conduct penalty from minimum of 0 max of 100 points.

Playing on obvious:
Automatic flag hand for opposition: possibility of unsportsmanlike conduct penalty: min 20 unlimited max or ejection with possible ineligibility to other tournaments

Playing on blatantly obvious:
Automatic max for opposition: possibility of unsportsmanlike conduct penalty: min 50 unlimited max or ejection with possible ineligibility to other tournaments


extra ideas:

you don't need to use the same marker for every game; each game the modifier is figure out
maybe run each game twice in case of the lucky shot: kinda what challege cup does


Then use standard rules for the rest



Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 9:42 PM

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This won't work because...

by ph0b

...tournaments are cleverly disguised advertisements.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 10:59 PM

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Its still clever though...

by Jinxed

I like the idea, but I prefer the idea of individual classes we already have. ie stock,pump,semi,open,200-round, etc. Granted, some need more emphasis then others.

Your right about the 'tournaments disguised as advertisements', but sometimes you can have great 'factory' classes like 'stock spyder' class, or 'stock blade' class, etc. These kinds are really fun.

The big problem I see with the point-system is this "tournament-marker" notion. That should be dumped, since its to easy to make loopholes.
Ie, fast firing guns like the Vector, MegaZ, AT85, and RT-98s would be 'non-tournament'. Others like Cocker, Phoon, Sov can be easily converted to open-bolt. The Rainmaker can be converted to non-electro, so they would be "non-tournament" also. You could even convert an angel to non-electro, with a lightening fast pneumatic trigger. That would be a huge loophole.

One way where the idea of 'handicap' points are utilizes now is tournaments, like the APL, where teams are "weighted". Beating certain teams are worth more then other teams. I think this is a great idea, especially in tournaments where amatuer and pros play each other, even though they are in separate classes.

Nick Brassard


Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 4:25 AM

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Re: Its still clever though...

by Anonymous

then i guess you could make it all non reactive blowbacks; i understand there would be loop holes but at the promoters desgression what is and what isn't a tourney level marker. OR maybe put in a loophole clause. It not meantfor natinal tourneys it meant more for local tourneys or clubs. i was thinking of putting on a club and having a "Mr Paintball" award at the end of the year. With the club members having the say on loopholes.

I see my father tournament bass fishing club having there own local tournaments that are just within the club and i thought why not for paintball?

I know most "series" don't exactly work in my part of the country but maybe this could.

thanks for your thoughts
shane



Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 8:03 AM

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It may not be for the "mainstream"

by

but I see no reason that it wouldn't be fun to do on a local level. I'd love to take out my sl68 or vm and play with some of the kids with their hot rods!



Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 5:44 AM

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wow, Paintball... the RPG.

by sergi

...player weilds blow of death to oponent, roll to hit x dammage, -2 for ported barrel, + 5 for closed bolt, + 10 for black magic cocker vodoo .

jeze louize, It's complicated, I just like to play.

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 11:40 AM

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Re: wow, Paintball... the RPG.

by Richter

i think it is simple when it is on a score sheet. circle the modifier and look down that row. Just like Making any rules they seem complicated look at the standard rule book now. When playing they are simpler

the meat and potatoes of it is the table:
Normal points:
(it’s center flag top gun)
40 flag hang
30 flag pull
20 elimination
10 live player

Modifier
0 .1 .2 .3 .4 .5
40 44 48 52 56 60 flag hang
30 33 36 39 42 45 flag pull
20 22 24 26 28 30 elimination
10 11 12 13 14 15 live player
--------------------------------------------------
100 110 120 130 140 150 Totals

Sure it takes a little more accounting than usual tournament play but that is the burden of the promoter
maybe i should of put it in an actual html table

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 4:40 PM

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I have an idea why our Spyders are breaking paint!

by

I was shooting my Spyder that is set up to run at about 350 PSI next to a Spyder Sport with no regulator (~800 PSI).

One glaring difference was what happens to the next ball in the stack... First of all, the Spyder Sport is vertical feed. When I dry fire the sucker WITHOUT air, and with two balls in the feed neck, the bolt coming forward whaps the next ball hard enough to make it hop out of the feed neck!

Now, you should see when I fire it with air! HOLY CRAP. The next ball in the ball stack shoots straight up hard enough to break on the cieling!

Turns out the Sport has a larger ID where the bolt goes, for one thing. It looks to me like a whole heck of a lot of gas is blowing by the bolt and up the feed neck. When I place my hand over the feed neck and fire, the ball shoots up hard enough to sting my hand.

I also would think that at higher pressure, the bolt would slam back more quickly from the blowback gasses, opening the breech sooner and letting more air escape up the feed neck. What do you guys think?

And how can I remedy this problem? All I can think of is getting a bolt that fits tighter in the breech... Any ideas?

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 7:05 PM

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ah, the old bolt too loose in the bore problem...

by paul

it was a major problem with the old (gen 1-2) bushmasters. my gun was horrible about that

i'd say find a good bolt with lots of o-rings or get someone to machine you a better fitting bolt

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 7:08 PM

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You are familiar with this problem?

by

Did the loose bolt cause ball breakage in your experience?

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 7:26 PM

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we had it alot less than a spyder but yes sometimes.nt

by orangejulius

asd

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 7:43 PM

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yes it's terrible

by paul

i had ball breaks in my bushy all of the time, well, i still do... the blowback gasses make me shoot about 8bps max otherwise it's chop city, which sucks.

i need to get me a vapor bolt already... or convince my shop teacher to let me make paintball parts

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 7:45 PM

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Does anyone make larger-diameter Spyder bolts?

by

I can't spend much, the marker isn't worth much itself :\ hehe

Any ideas ? Every Spyder bolt I have (I have four of them) is too small.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 8:26 PM

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do any of them have o-rings?

by paul

if they do and still don't fit, maybe you can find fatter ones somewhere

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 8:33 PM

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They all have o-rings, but...

by

They all have o-rings but they fit so loosely I really don't think the o-rings are sealing. VERY loose. Also, there are only o-rings on each side of where the valve is, there's no o-ring to seal the barrel area off from the feed neck.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 9:18 PM

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that's the problem probably

by paul

one of kingman's famous problems: poor design

you need the ring on the tip of the bolt otherwise the gas'll just blow back past the tip and into the feed tube...

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 9:22 PM

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Actually their new gun have been pretty nice....

by CRySyS

I'm constantly being surprised by how well Spyders shoot out of the box now. When we sell a gun we set it up and chrono it and we have been selling a lot of the electronic variety. There still is no o-ring on the front of the bolt but it fits well in most bodies and seals just fine on the guns I've shot.

Now we don't carry the Sport or that plastic bodied Spyder. But the new guns are impressive, for the money you spend.

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 5:38 AM

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Could this be why spyders originally had PF's? NT

by JaKaL



Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 9:00 PM

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yeah, serious

by paul

they add the vf to look cool, but the pf's actually did something: allowed the blowback gasses to blast past the ball instead of blowing it back up into the hopper. if you ever see a pf spyder, fire the gun with your hand over the slot in the feed and you'll feel what's wrong...

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 9:19 PM

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I checked this out with a powerfeed spyder I have...

by

I watch the feed neck area of the vert veed Spyder. Two balls in the feed neck. I fire, one ball shoots out the barrel, the other ball shoots high into the air from the vert feed.

Then I watch the feed neck of a powerfeed Spyder. Two balls in the feed neck. I fire, one ball shoots out the barrel, the next ball doesn't appear to even MOVE until the bolt opens, and it drops into the breech.

It would appear to me that power feed on a Spyder is important and should have never been replaced by vert feed. Only a marker that can prevent blow-by should have vert feed in my opinion...

For example, my BKO. It has a vert feed but the bolt fits nice in the breech. Even with no O-rings on the bolt, there is almost NO blowing up the feed neck. Not enough to make a ball jump out, not enough to make a business card jump off the feed neck even.

Anyway, does anyone make Spyder bolts that have an oring on the tip? Didn't older ones have this or something? I know my nephew's PG1 Pro has a bolt like this but it's not entirely Spyder compatible.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 11:13 PM

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Other options that DO WORK...

by Jinxed

I tried a PF on my old VM, but it seemed to feed worse. Instead, I had the feedblock machined so that it was wide open so exhaust could vent. Just barely enough metal left over to support the loader.
Seemed to work like a charm.

Another option is a delayed-blowback system like the MegaZ. Have-Blue showed that it worked without paint. I think it would work with paint if the bolt was heavier.
The MegaZ was inline, but I once rigged up a version for my stacked-tube VM, so its possible.
It was just a proof-of-concept, and had some bugs.
It worked something like this:




I tried to adjust the delay via friction by using different sized orings, but these seamed problematic. It later occured to me to use a heavier bolt to slow the delay... just like in a firearm, but I never figured an easy way to add lead... not to mention make it adjustable.

Anyway, this seems like the way to go for ultrafast, non-chop firing... (like the MegaZ).

Nick


Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 6:08 AM

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Back "in the day", some people made them....

by MadDog

I remember a lot of talk about adding one or two more rings to a stock Spyder bolt at one of the Spyder web sites - maybe SOG. I am talking 6 years ago.... The goal was to alleviate vertical movement of the front and rear of the bolt to get rid of the classic Spyder-bolt gouge marks. I do not know if anyone ever produced one for sale.

Posted on Jan 9, 2003, 9:46 AM

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Sounds like a job for one of PBJosh's multi-headed bolts

by

Didn't Bob Long used to have a multi-headed bolt called the Hydra? It had a venturi face, an open face, and one other I believe...

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 9:38 AM

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is it just me?

by paul

or does every "cool" gun now only come in those god-awful ugly matte finishes?

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 5:56 PM

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Whadda ya mean?

by Vampyr

I like the matte black markers, especially the '99 Autococker with the good shroud....

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 6:01 PM

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yeah...

by tom

i prefer the glossyness (sp) of my sto cocker. maybe the manufactures were haveing crow problems at feild due to excessive shinyness(sp)

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 6:20 PM

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true...

by paul

i have a matte black apex elite also, but the $2500 super electroblasters are supposed to be shiny

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 6:38 PM

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What gets me...

by

Is the custom shops charge more for the "dust" finishes.

Mill gun, wave bead-blaster over it, anno. Viola`, a "dust" finish.

Mill gun, sand smooth, buff, polish, anno, then polish anno. Voila`, a PK-worthy finish.

So the shops can charge more, and do less work, with the dust anno. Ain't that a gimmick?

Doc.

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 1:02 AM

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If they do it right it should cost more...

by

Then dust finishes should cost more.

The dust finished from WDP and AGDE has the gun polished first and THEN dusted, so that all the curves are nice and smooth and clean with few tooling marks before the dust finish is blasted on. It makes the finish look SOOO much better. They tried doing dust finished at AGDE without polishing them first and decided against it IIRC.

Often when you take short cuts and just blast a gun you can still see the tooling marks and it's 'sharp' and nasty. I do see a lot of dust finishes that were done in the USA were they didn't polish it first though.

manike

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 1:38 AM

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exactly what i was thinking... nt

by paul

sadfasdf

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 2:40 PM

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I say black matte is dead sexy nt

by

asdf

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 6:56 PM

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Just another case of the industry coming full circle...

by

I hear next year they're coming out with BRASS accessories!



Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 6:20 PM

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Whoah cool

by

finally some new technology;)

-Paul-

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 6:28 PM

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Drop Forward and Cradles...

by Jinxed

Wait-

We were using drop-forward and cradles in the 80s.

We called it "california style". Even big ugly valves seem to be popular again...

Nick


Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 6:40 PM

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I love

by

I love how remotes are "outta style" and just scream "newbie!!!". The reason they were deemed unfit by many players: got tangled in vines and branches. Problem anymore? Not on speedball! Oh well, i think theyre neat, but eh, oh well

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 6:48 PM

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Gets the weight off the gun too. N/T

by Vampyr

...

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 7:25 PM

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Fasion or no fasion, I like the tank on the marker...

by

I like the weight it adds to the marker and the balance. I especially like the way the marker shoulders with a Lapco drop-forward and a 20 ounce co2 tank I've tried playing with a remote and it felt strange to me.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 7:28 PM

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Oops, I mean fashion...

by

It was like 3 AM here I think when I posted that LOL...

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 10:53 AM

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Well...

by

I used to use a remote. The reason I don't now is because it adds even more weight to your pack, making it that much more prone to bouncing around.

Also, although it makes the gun lighter, you also have a tube running from the gun to the pack, so it can be a bit of an annoyance when getting into some of the strange positions one can find oneself in while playing modern speedball.

Thirdly, I'll have to agree with the point made regarding balance. Most guns shoulder and balance better with the tank on-gun.

Plus remotes make you look like a newb... :-P

JaKaL

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 8:57 PM

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remotes and my vm

by the underdog

i used a remote with my vm and it definately took some weight off an already heavy gun. but it seemed that it either hindered my lefthand shot or just was too uncomfortable to be an effective left hand shooter. and also my coiled line would sometimes kink/twist on itself and took a little attention and maintenance. i kinda like the worry free nature of the tank on gun. switch left to right no problem.

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 1:45 PM

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Tool to measure spring tension....

by killerbombo

Does anyone know where to get a device to measure spring tension on "marker sized" springs? I have a large version to check engine valve springs w/ a torque wrench, but I haven't run across something for this stuff. Thought about making one using a hinge with a stop to adjust compression lenght,and my old digital scale we used to use to weigh co2 fills. Atleast I could get compareson values. Any suggestions on where to buy, or designs on how to make one?
Regards, Mark

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 4:13 PM

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how about a fish scale?

by

since i think you would only want to compare springs that you already have it would be accurate enough.



Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 4:30 PM

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seems to work....

by killerbombo

10lb digital (fish) scale is what I was goint to use.
Just wondered,with all the gun techs that use this site,what they use. Can't believe all anyone uses is a chronograph to dial things in. Knowing the spring rates first seems like it would make the whole process a little moe fluid. Did a quick test with a long hinge with 2 spring cups,and the scale on the end. It gives a fairly easy way to compare one spring to another. Needs a adjustable stop or a grid. Also thinking about a center pull style (6 lbs of pull will really be 6 lbs of pull) as opposed to the lever effect of the hinge.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 6:13 PM

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center pull

by

centr pull a cup with a wire attached to go through the spring [----------o
a loop in the end to hang the scale on.

a stand with a hole o the top to put the wire through

and pull down on the scale/wire to measure directly.



Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 7:42 PM

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spy photos..the REAL reason doc is gone...

by Timberwolf



And I am guessing he had a hand in this (or maybe it had a hand in the above...):



Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 3:55 PM

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i dont think those guns are really neccessary

by

on a 4x4. :-D

maybe he thinks terrorists are in season? (evil grin)

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 4:11 PM

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Terrorists are always in season...

by

...but tailgaters are only legal May through July

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 4:52 PM

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lol...

by

300 flashbulbs, a chrome car, and 8 15" spikes...

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 5:26 PM

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Are you sure??

by Vampyr

I thought tailgaters were legal July through May...

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 5:55 PM

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didn't someone go to jail for a setup like that a few years ago? nt

by paul

sadfsdsfd

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 4:46 PM

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considering that can take out anything police can throw at you think you could

by orangejulius

those guns would rip through a cop car like a hot knife through butter

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 7:42 PM

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and oh yeah...

by paul

is it just me or are the barrels solid looking in the first pic?

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 7:47 PM

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I though 50 Cal barrels were solid? nt

by orangejulius

asd

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 7:58 PM

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SOLID? then how does the projectile get through the barrel??

by

ASDFQWERTY

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 9:49 PM

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The assumption here is...

by

... That the guns are DEWATS, disabled military surplus, or dummy/training/display units. I had a chance to get a very realistic Browning .30 cal air-cooled (had the hinged top, you could lock in a belt of ammo, had mostly actual .30 cal exterior hardware, etc, but was all assembled around a rough-cast solid aluminum "dummy" receiver body, meaning there were no internals at all) but the guy wanted to sell it, a belt of dummy ammo (not blanks, the ones with the crimped cases with holes drilled in 'em) and the Jeep-mount stand (authentic) and I just didn't have the cash for what was really just a wall-hangin' display thing.

Considering what even a semi-auto-only .50 M2 costs, I very seriously doubt those are real. And as mentioned alsewhere, that mount is way too flimsy- it probably wouldn't be too bad against one or two individual shots (the M2 has a lot of road-hugging weight) but both firing full-auto? Nope, that thing'd fold like yesterday's newspaper. It appears to be raised by an electric actuator, like the custom-car guys use for powered hoods and decklids. They're not bad, but I bet they're workin' damned hard just to raise and lower that thing.

Put it this way- Carlo Bertochini uses two heavily modified and overvolted linear actuators in his BattleBot "BioHazard". With the leverage they see and the length of the lifting arm, they can lift well over 220 lb (it's fighting weight class.)

That gun-mount's arm is longer, and one M2 without an ammo can weighs something like 110lb, as I recall- and it only has one actuator.

Nope. It's a dummy/display item. Can't imagine why, but hey, I don't know why somebody shot six reindeer either. Other than the fact they're really tasty.

Doc.

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 1:17 AM

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Are they having that "mad cow" like problem with reindeer?

by

In the midwest they've set up eradication zones where hunters can kill as many deer as they want. They're trying to eliminate herds infected with some mad cow like condition who's name I forget. Doesn't make sense to me, I thought mad cow was caused by people feeding cows to cows which mutates some protine. Who's feeding deer to deer? Or perhaps the symptoms are similar but the cause is not?

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 3:45 AM

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CWD:

by

It's called Chronic Wasting Disease. I don't think it's like BSE (Bovine spongiform encepholaphy, or something- it attacks the brain, makes spongelike holes) but I'm not precisely sure what it is. Hunters are allowed to shoot 'em, but I don't think they're allowed to eat 'em. Google it, I'm sure it'll tell you all about it.

I strongly doubt the reindeer shown had it- given the truck, and the fact they're all bulls (I think- do reindeer females have antlers like caribou?) makes me think they were all taken from a large game farm.

Maybe TW can enlighten us on the source of the photo.

Doc.

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 4:06 AM

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Colorado is watching it too...

by CRySyS

When hunting up there we checked my elk and my fathers muledeer brains when we butchered them.

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 5:47 AM

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It's spreading through Wisconsin now as well.

by

This last deer hunting season was the first time it was an issue in Wisconsin. The DNR was telling hunters they could eat the meat because there hasn't been any evidence that it effects humans. Hunting was still way down this year though. Can't say I blame people. It makes me a little nervous when I eat venison now. Time will tell I guess.

Chris
http://www.vm68.com

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 12:58 PM

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Not sure what the original source was...

by

...but the rest of the photos from this page are hilarious: http://www.lilligren.com/Redneck/

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 8:10 AM

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i can't stop laughing!!!!

by dingo

i'm glad you guys cann't see me,, i actualy fell out of my chair with tears when i saw redneck morning breath

OMG!!!

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 8:28 AM

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MI has been having TB breakouts... same as elsewhere?

by

they're trying to thin out the herds here, but I havn't heard much about it the last year or so... (unintentional pun...)

---Fred

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 1:18 PM

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yes to your question Doc

by boing

Yes reindeer females do have antlers like caribou and they keep them through the winter where the males shed theirs.

KMD

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 3:51 PM

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I sure hope he doesn't actually SHOOT those!

by

Can we say "recoil-induced vehicle destruction"? That mount would never hold up to .50 BMG shakin', much less a pair of them.

Neat looking, though, isn't it?

Ben Kohnen, Limited Pump Paintball
http://www.geocities.com/limitedpump/

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 8:28 PM

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Doc, please reply asap!

by

check your e-mails. I have e-mailed you multiple times asking for the details on my impulse having the genesis vision board installed. I have a local tournament series starting really soon and I would like to have my gun back before then. If you can't do that then could you atleast tell me that you still have my gun or something. thanks for your time.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 1:51 PM

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Re: Doc, please reply asap!

by Anonymous

http://www.network54.com/Hide/Forum/message?forumid=9013&messageid=1041898303

"I'll be offline, or at least really busy this week, so board visitation and/or 'mail replies will likely be delayed."

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 2:05 PM

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Imply-Gen-Viz-stuff:

by

Curt tells me you've contacted him- or he contacted you, or whatever. Apparently on top of the Holidays, one of his co-workers (who apparently does much of the board assembly) just had her first kid the other day, so there were things like that holding up progress.

Goin' as fast as I can with the hand I've been dealt.
Doc.

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 1:22 AM

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Hey, I got the Genesis Vision Too!

by Cacaman

The best upgrade that I have ever got for my Impulse...Also, your not just getting the Genesis board, which is an awesome product and every impulse should have it, but when you get your gun back you'll feel a great change in your trigger pull!!! the trigger rests on the micro switch...I've never shot a gun with this kind of pull!

Cacaman

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 2:38 PM

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slightly OT - team performance

by

I can't figure this out. I've been playing paintball for 16 years and I've played with a few different teams and recently I've gotten to thinking about tourney and scrimmage performances. It sems that we have the ability to win all day except for the very first game of the day. For some reason, we always lose the first game of the day. If we win it, then for I can expect that the rest of our performances will be spotty at best. So...

...if we win the first game of the day = definite inconsistent performance for the remainder -or- if we lose the first game = potential for a great day.

I discussed this with a teammate before Saturday's scrimmage so that he could witness the phenomenon. Sure enough, we got smoked on the first game... BAD. We won every consecutive game from then on.

I haven't told anyone else because I don't want to influence the karma but I think the smarter ones of the bunch are starting to suspect.

Anyone else recognize odd occurances among your teams?



Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 12:33 PM

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late night drinking and hangovers are bad

by

closing the bar at 4:00 am getting lost on the way to a rainy tourny.
we dont win very many games this way.

but it sure is fun.....

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 3:42 PM

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well everybody (almost) does that...

by bane22

my team had that problem for 2 yewars but what we did to finally solve the problem was we practiced more. The more we practiced the more consistent we were during the day and the better we did on our first game

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 3:37 AM

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video camera jinx....

by goat

Sometime we bring the video camera and my wife tapes a few game's during tourney's, WE ALWAY'S get stomped when that thing is on us, then she put's it down and decided's to read, go to the restroom, run to the store for drink's ect. and we start pulling stuff off that we wouldnt even do in practice but we are so far behind that its "all or nothing".
life is funny sometimes,
Goat

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 6:40 PM

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Rare Gray Spirit FS

by

I'm selling a Gray Spirit that was made with a short barrel, which ends at the end of the pump handle. The marker is in fantastic shape. In the two years that I've owned it, its had paint through it only a few times, and has been in storage ever since I last had it out last spring. I'll be happy to answer any questions!

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 11:19 AM

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First Question

by Tattoo

Why didn't you post this in the Classifieds?

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 11:55 AM

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I have a question...

by Painthappy

re: I'll be happy to answer any questions!

If batman got pulled over by the police, what license would he show them?

Would have have to pull out his Bruce Wayne license? Or does he have a special Batman License?


Eagerly waiting your answer!!!


LOL... Ok.. on a serious note.. do you have any pictures?


Painthappy

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 11:57 AM

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*feh*

by niteHawk

everyone knows that Batman is a vigalante... therefore he wouldn't be pulled over, he'd just use the turbo boost and jump over the blockade....
.
.
.
.
.
.
wait.. maybe that was KnightRider....

nH

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 12:21 PM

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This started my day off with a laugh,

by

Thanks. I meeded that.

Evan

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 2:30 PM

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Now wait a minute...

by

Years ago, before they "reinvented" Batman into the outlaw/vigilante/wanted man he is today, Bats worked side-by-side with the police.

He'd show up at the scene, some cop would be startled when Bats pops out of the shadows, and then says something like "Oh, it's you, Batman".

Hold the 'phone! He's wearing a mask! He could be anyone! He could be the murderer wearing a Batman costume and he's gonna walk away (or batarang-rope-swing) without having his ID checked?

I liked Spider-Man better. He'd always have some clever quip for the officer as he swung away, or he'd web the cop's gun into his holster.

Doc.

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 1:28 AM

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Thickness of a 1911/.45 frame?

by Hardwarz

I don't have one around me, but what's the thickness of a 1911/.45 frame?

Anyone own a .45 cast and can sell me blanks?

Hardwarz

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 10:05 AM

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According to the print I have...

by

It's 0.752"-.005"



Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 10:57 AM

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Doh!!!

by Vampyr

I've been searching for CAD of it, but all I really need is physical dimensions and angles of the grip area itself. You wouldn't happen to have a copy floating on airsoldier would you?

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 5:53 PM

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Maybe I do, and maybe I do....

by

Drop me an email, and I'll give you the secret URL.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 6:22 PM

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Thanks...

by Vampyr

Just what I was looking for. Oh and a question about a previous post. I thought a metric assload was a measurement of displacement...

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 4:08 PM

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According to the print I have...

by

It's 0.752"-.005"



Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 10:58 AM

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Doc, please check your email and reply ASAP.

by

.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 9:15 AM

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Checking... Whoa!

by

In reply:

A) No, a Tippmann M98 will not support the weight of a fully-loaded M1A1 Abrams.

B) Yes, but not while the cow was watching.

And C) You wouldn't like it. Harp seals are mostly fat, so it's like eating unfried pork rinds.

Doc.

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 1:33 AM

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Weird... Where did this post go?

by

I thought I posted to Timelords post on the WAS discussion below...

And even had a link for the post when I replied to myself with an addition and here it is...

http://www.network54.com/Forum/message?messageid=1041955745&forumid=9013

and then this one

http://www.network54.com/Forum/message?forumid=9013&messageid=1041955920

But for the life of me now I can't see it?

Did it get deleted? Or is my system screwing with me? or am I just blind to something that is right before my eyes? I have a suspicion that as soon as I post this I will be able to see it again

manike



Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 7:55 AM

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AARRGH toldya...

by

Now I see it... just below here... lmao.

I'm sure I didn't reply to that thread. Oh well must have done, unless network54 is being screwy. please excuse me

manike

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 7:57 AM

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Above is a result of too many headshots... :)....nt

by

jkhdsfh

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 8:03 AM

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I had trouble the other day...

by

I was replying to a thread and I hit "Post Reply" and it took me back to the main forum like it always does when you've posted but my post wasn't there.

I hit refresh a couple of times and even came back later to re-check. It wasn't a big deal, I just re-posted my reply, it just didn't have the original flavor that my first reply did, some of the humor never got put back in b/c it wasn't funny for me the second time I typed it.

So do you know what you call a boomarang that when you throw it it doesn't come back?

Scroll down......













A stick! Haha

Had to put something even slightly funny here.

Schmitti

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 8:32 AM

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OT Autoshow: The Tomahawk?

by

Now this is a bike!

Four wheels, 550HP, V-10... Probably beats leno's turbine-powered bike in power-to-weight.



Needs more racebike-like fairing over the headlights, and more front fender, but man... who wouldn't want a motorcycle with more displacement than a Cadillac?

Doc.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 2:30 AM

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Evil.....;)

by

I saw the news item on this earlier-

I want to know how much FUEL the beast can carry- considering that an average bike holds around 3 gallons.

How much does a V-10 drink per mile?
Even assuming a huge savings in weight, I'd still be worried about making it from gas station to gas station with that sucker!

(Sucks to have to stop and gas up every other block, huh?)

snicker


-Badger-




Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 4:39 AM

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ya know...

by

I'd be more concerned about the torque on the thing, flipping the bike over and squishing someone between the asphalt and the V-10. It doesn't appear to have any 'wheelie bar' things to prevent such an occurance.

Guess you have to be careful what kind of tires are mounted on it? Too much grip? (I don't know these issues on motorcycles...)

Idiot: "Hey! Look what I can do!"
(open throttles from full stop...)
Flip!
*squish!*

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 6:38 AM

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Front wheel drive and rear steering would solve the flipping.

by

Green machine comes to mind (rear steering Big Wheel).

If fact, I would be interested in knowing what kind of drive train that has. Sprocket or timing belt pulley between the split wheel?

Doesn't look like you would get very cold in the winter, with a V-10 inches away from you.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 7:25 AM

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Cool, but....

by Adam

That's not a BIke, it has 4 wheels (Training Wheels??)

Neat concept, but there has been instances of V8 engines in frames for years.... some wacko finally decided that they needed 2 more cylinders.

Power to weight is unimportant past a certain point on a motorcycle (Very useful in a jet fighter or something with more tire on the ground_... the small contact patches apparent on that picture isn't going to support a whole lot of throttle.

I had a 900 once, had a lil blue bottle strapped to the swingarm (which was lenghtened 6") that motorcycle seemed to a problem with the rear end getting squirrely and keeping the front wheel on the ground.



Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 6:54 AM

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How many votes in total on the poll there?

by

He reckons he has had 4-5000 e-mails asking for him to do a board for the Impulse...

/me wonders what the latest serial number is on the impulse...

manike

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 7:09 AM

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ok so around 20,000 impulses made...

by

Wow! SP must be laughing their cotton socks off and rolling in it

But anyway he reckons a quarter of ALL impulse owners have e-mailed him to ask for them to make a board?

I'm guessing more BS or someone's been mailing him more than once... maybe even hitting him with a mail bomb of a few thousand requests at a time?

manike

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 7:12 AM

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Bike or Motorcycle?

by

I guess that it would still be a motorcycle (using a motor to turn wheels), but bike (short for bicycle) wouldn't work because it has four wheels.

Whatever you call it, that thing is gawdly cool to look at.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 12:01 PM

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odd logic ?....

by sergi

bi(2) - cycle(wheeled thing?)

bike (shortened as in I want a bike for christmass)
'cycle (shortened as in I don't wanna pickle....)

motor - cycle (short for motor driven cycle)

motor - bike (the british)

nothing really applies to that thing except FUGLY.



Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 12:16 PM

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You know you company is in trouble when.....

by Odder

you have to make somthing like that to draw people to your booth, because you haven't got any eciting cars to show people.
Come on? where is the engineering in that? come back to me when you have figure a way to get a small engine that puts out 500 HP. any monkey can slap the biggest engine they can find on a trasmission and some wheels.
Please it has been done before.


Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 1:50 PM

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wait.... did dodge make the motor too?

by paul

i wonder how bad the gas milage is... i've seen a v8 durango getting 8mpg going 25 mph.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 3:14 PM

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Yup, it's a Viper V10 engine. -nt-

by Hardwarz

nt

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 5:42 AM

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heard of the SRT-4? or the Dodge Magnum project?

by Timberwolf

I think they have stuff to draw people...

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 3:36 PM

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A few facts

by

0-60 in 2.5 sec Has the potential to do 400mph but hasnt been tested.You crack the throttle it's either going under you or around you if you dont hang on.Never been impressed with the sound of the v10.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 12:16 PM

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not a touring bike thats for sure,looks unconfortable(nt)

by

(nt)

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 12:41 PM

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What it looks like:

by Dutch

It truly looks like the kind of motorcycle you get out of a team of automobile designers. What it needs:

20 feet of battleship chain, and use it for an anchor...

That thing is fugly...

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 12:52 PM

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w00t ! yup, read above nt

by sergi

nt

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 1:10 PM

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more displacement than a Cadillac ? not this one ....

by

http://www.cadillac.com/cadillacjsp/info/concept/cadillac16/index.html

but I would rather have this , as far as 16 cylinder engines ar concerned .

http://www.bugatti-cars.de/bugatti/index.html
(go to models then veyron.)

Later
Kyle

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 5:03 PM

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500 mph!!!!!!!

by oh yeah

i don't know

Posted on Jan 9, 2003, 10:16 PM

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what is the best psi booster pump?

by Richter

as the title ask what is the best compressed air booster pump?

pro and cons of each.

I know of only three:
air america's genesis
worr games custom booster pump
nitro ducks booster pump

any others or any knowledge of others outside the paintball industry?

I pushing towards the genesis 'casue of lifetime warranty and aa's customer service
only problem is that it seems to be a gas hog...

I have seen worr's systems go down many of times

i have only seen one power booster ounce asn it seemed fine.

I beleive the later two need low pressure ari compressors tom run them; is that correct?

guild members info most appreciated
thanks
shane


Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 9:34 PM

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I think Bauer makes one of the best

by prowler

But I'm not sure which model it is. They had a really nice one at the Am Open this year.

Sorry for the vague information

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 7:13 AM

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Stay away from the Nitro Duck...

by CRySyS

We had both the new and old models and neither one was operating for very long. Finaly threw them away and sold the big source compressor and bought an electric Bauer 5k compressor. Haven't looked back since. It's faster quieter and easier. And it's run non stop for most of a year now. The only seals that give trouble are the bleed valves and thats because the boss likes to crank down on them hard and damage them. It even has breating air filters so we could concievably fill SCUBA with it.

I didn't know Bauer was making a booster though.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 9:17 AM

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Whoa!

by

Bauer has a Paintball link on their page. It's under construction, but...

-------------------
Brent "Twiek" Crowe
ncsupaintball.com

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 9:28 AM

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Worr..

by Tom Sparkman

Correct, Worr uses a low-pressure compressor.

Tom

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 11:54 AM

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geneisis all the way.

by

as you said %100 lifetime warranty. and it is easy to service yourself if need be. it fills at a slower rate than most, but it fills at a much safer rate. it doesnt heat up the bottle as much, and is not as easy to over pressurize someones tank, due to having to manually move the pump lever back and forth. yes it uses a bit more gas than others, but overall cost of operation compared to others is the same or less. we have used one at our field for over 3 years and with regular maintance, has only went down once, when a scheduled maintance was forgotten about. also, if you compare the prices, i think it is the same if not cheaper than the others. hope this helps,
Shane-O

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 2:22 PM

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Doc....

by

Please respond to my emails. It has been longer then a year since I sent in for the purple order, and has been months and months with no contact, response to emails, or posts. You have adressed the others in the order, but never myself. I sent you a 99 APL cocker as a partial trade, and was reciving a ripper body to be anoed with my parts. I have sent numerous emails that I know you have checked and read, and yet nothing. I have nothing but faith and respect in your work, have recomended you to people, but im starting to lose that. Please reply, Cameron Scott Bromley.

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 9:04 PM

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Yo, Cam:

by

You're fourth on a list that, thankfully on a decending-order-of-importance, if I typed out every time I wrote out such a response, would stretch four paragraphs.

Anyway, pop me an E-mail and let me know what you think the stuff was worth, and a current mailing address. Like I said below, I want to get this stuff cleared up one way or the other.

Doc.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 2:03 AM

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While my mind wanders... Random chrono thoughts.

by Vampyr

Once upon a time we had a discussion regarding chrono cheats and how to catch them. Wouldn't it be alot easier if for tournies you mandate that the chrono ref fires the marker to test it going on and off the field to avoid the roll the paint partway down the barrel, or let the bolt knob hit your hand type of chrony cheats?

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 8:55 PM

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Yep, a lot of tourneys do this. (nt)

by CRySyS

bleg

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 9:11 PM

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What about magnetic rings?

by Hardwarz

Personally, I'd have the ref do the chrono test and then have the user pull and hold the trigger for 5 seconds.

Hardwarz

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 7:32 AM

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explain this to me....

by Painthappy

because I don't get it.. why hold for 5 seconds?


Painthappy

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 12:47 PM

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people make shady boards

by paul

that have reed switches on them that enable illegal fire modes when the switches are tripped. the guys'll wear a magnet in their glove so it closes the switch for them, but not for anybody else...

then someone caught on so they put a delay before the switch kicks in, but they caught on to that too...


makes you wonder what the latest working cheat method is

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 7:49 PM

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At one tourney.....

by

I heard they were checking people wearing gloves with a compass.  Seems like that would be the fastest way to catch them.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 3:12 PM

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and they check you regulator

by

comming off a field one ref held my shocker while another used both hands to screw in my maxflow.

I had a otp reg lock on tight and locked.

the refs almost stripped my max's threads.

and got the gun to fire 315. needless to say we got bumped out of the finals with a hot gun penalty.

the refs railroaded us the entire day.

i earlier got called for playing on because i was asking for a paint check.( stopped shooting before hand)

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 3:49 PM

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Loader ramblings...

by wat

So after that AC130 video and discussion i was bored and looked up info on Spectre and Spookie on www.fas.org. Just wanted to know how much ammo one of those gunships can carry.

Then i was looking at gatling guns and the GAU8 Avenger on the A10 and i learned a few things i didn't know. First, its a linkless feed system. Apparantly ejecting 100 1.5lb shell caseings per second has the potential to damage the aircraft. The empty cases are returned back into the magazine. But then i was wondering, if its linkless, how the hell do you feed 100 rounds per second and how can that be adapted that to paintball?

Ends up that big drum magazine is a giant archimedean screw. The rounds are place radially pointing inwards and the screw just turns. Feedrate is controlled by the rate the screw turns.

Instead of pods, one could carry preloaded screws of paint. You'd lose capacity, but you could make the loader screw lie horizontal, trading length for height and reducing your frontal profile.

Just a random thought

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 7:31 PM

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Sounds force fed.......

by

and not tourny legal. great for walk on but as we all know if the tournys and want to be tourny players theres no market.

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 7:37 PM

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force fed is legal no?

by wat

Isn't forced fed tourney legal? Isn't that what the warp feed does? And even the Halo to some extent?

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 7:45 PM

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force fed.....

by

force fed isnt legal anf the warp and halo are still a touchy subject. the warp is still gravity fed from the hopper. least how its explained by agd. as far as the halo, im not sure just how it fits in the scheme.

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 7:49 PM

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What about the AT-85?

by Vampyr

That is a conveyor fed system... couldn't that be construed as force fed?


Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 7:57 PM

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If i remember right............

by

isnt that a spring fed clip?

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 8:02 PM

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no... nt

by paul

dsfgdfs

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 8:03 PM

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i have a TS1/AT85

by wat

It is a forced feed gun that at the time was tourney illegal. But with the advent of the warpfeed which can be mounted on anygun and with the political power of AGD, the force feeding rules were rewritten/relaxed/thrown out not sure, but the TS1 is now tourney legal. Not that you see any in use.

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 9:22 PM

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Force feed is 'kinda' tourny legal...

by

It pretty much boiled down to two things which mean that Warps and Halo's are completely legal.

If you can turn the gun upside down and it will eventually stop feeding stored paint it is 'not force feed under the ATSM rules' LMFAO. I.e. if it is at some point gravity dependent. Which means that force feed i.e. Warp and Halo are perfectly legal. In effect you can have something force feed as fast as you like if when you turn it upside down the balls no longer make it into the drive mechanism.

Secondly any force feed system has to be able to work with any gun. They didn't think the ATS system was fair because it forced anyone who wanted to have that advantage to buy one of those guns. I don't know why they don't allow it now since people can achieve similar things with any marker system.

manike

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 5:19 AM

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According to the NPPL rulebook

by niteHawk

And yeah - I know... who knows WHAT rulebook anyone if following this year..

They took out the forcefeed loader rule...

5.29. Loaders must be made of a solid color, and stickers on loaders or other feed devices will not be allowed except for one 2” by 4” sticker on each side of the loaders or other feeding devices colored only in black, white and/or red. The red color must be equivalent to the pantone red 032CVC. Faded or off color stickers may be disallowed on the field.


nH

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 7:43 AM

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A little more explanation

by Vampyr

http://palpatine.chez.tiscali.fr/Warfare/Auto/Gallery/Gallery.html

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 8:08 PM

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Y'know...

by

... I don't think I'd ever thought about how they reloaded that big badboy. How clever.

And killer pics. I saw one with that GAU-8 on a semi-trailer flatbed, with a Volkswagen Beetle parked next to it for scale... The ammo drum was about a third again larger.

Doc.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 2:05 AM

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Spectre varies a bit

by Sector 7G

On its gau it is feed by belts that are suspended in a big box.This allows for the belt to be split or added to if a gun goes down and the gunner is unable to fix it.
It also allows for the emercency jettison of 100 rnds at a time in case of a emercency.


P-3

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 2:23 AM

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Calico helix magazine...

by Jinxed

In case you don't remember. The Calico was a 9mm pistol that had a 50/100 helix magazine. Basically, a subcompact version of the one used on gunships.
I once tried to imagine it as a high-speed loader, but never really went anywhere. Didn't seem any better then the warp/halo.
After reading what you said, I thought instead of a loader, incorporate the helix into the gun, so you have no bolt. Each ball can sit in its own 'breech', and hit with a blast from a fast valve (ie Mag).
Actually, picture the SMG-60, with a helix mag, and a MAG valve instead of the hammer. Make it electronically timed, and run it as fast as you can.

Or maybe not. Here is the internals from the Calico Mag.





Nick


Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 8:29 PM

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Cool idea but...

by Anonymous

...I have seen hopper and gun shots, not to mention times when a gun was dropped or thrown, where a ball or two gets broken in the gun or hopper. Imagine the mess if some broken paint gets pushed through that system The shooter would be "screwed" !

As for the ground attack mission aircraft - my first boss worked on a design program for a light ground attack plane built around one of those cannon. They kept running into trouble because the recoil of the gun was hefty enough to move the plane around in the air

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 3:16 AM

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Oooh, I bet that was the Ares...

by Jeb Hoge

A Burt Rutan design. Single engine, intake on one side of the fuselage and gun on the other side. I think that was a 3- or 4-barreled variant of the Warthog's 7-barreled monster. It had a really cool wing layout...canard up front, main wing in back, tailplanes on booms to either side of the exhaust, and the wing profiles were pretty sophisticated. But it never really went anywhere.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 5:24 AM

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A working gatling-paintball gun. 100bps

by Jinxed

In the calico-style system, a broken ball would be a disaster...
Thats why I suggested a SMG-style system. Each ball was preloaded into its own tube (called stripper clips), so it could never chop a ball. There is no bolt, and no moving parts (except for the loader).

The helix mag could be spun at any speed, and would not need to stop since the blast from the RT valve would be electronically timed.
The max working speed of the RT is 25bps? We would combine 4 RT valves, and run the hopper at 100bps, while cascading the RTs to run in sequence to prevent shoot down. However, I would still use -1- barrel, just because there is no need for multi-barrels in this design... which makes it much more impressive.

This would be a doable way to get 100bps out of a -1- barrel system, though reloading and air-source are issues to work out, but not major.

nick


Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 7:20 AM

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I just had an interesting thought

by

The balls would be less than 3' apart! If you were shooting at something across the field, you could easily have 20-25 balls in the air before the first one hit

-------------------
Brent "Twiek" Crowe
ncsupaintball.com

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 9:40 AM

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Which brings another concern to mind.

by

What would happen in an unported, say a 12 inch barrel? You could easily have 3 balls in the barrel at the same time. And with that there would be the gas from previous shots in the barrel. That would undoubtedly have adverse effects. A Gatling gun style mechanism would be a neccesity.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 12:15 PM

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My fuzzy math...

by Jinxed

Your math sounds correct.
I never considered that since a paintball gun shooting 100bps would not be practical, or even allowed anywhere. Its really only usefull as a proof-of-concept type device to show how a helix-type loader could work... If I really WANTED 100bps, I would just ziptie 10 stingrays together, and call it good..

At that rate, there is 1 ball every 4 inches? So, we have a 12" barrel, with 8" of large porting... That should solve any pressure/velocity related problems..

Nick



Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 12:37 PM

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ball exits the barrel in about 3-5ms...

by

So I don't think you would have more than one in the barrel at a time

At 300fps you would would have a ball every 3ft as they exit the barrel...

manike

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 12:48 PM

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Recoil...

by

In the Warthog, if the gun is fired for something like 15 seconds straight (even though they don't carry that much ammo) it will cause the plane to stop all forward motion. HELL YEAH!! Now THAT'S a gun!

JaKaL

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 7:38 PM

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Negative

by Canuck

That's just an urban legend.

The recoil does not slow the plane down significantly.

I remember either reading or hearing someone do the math (They went over the F=MxA and basically did an entire equation)

Under the best circumstances, the plane can only be slowed by 1/2 knot.

Whadda ya know, physics applying to real life!

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 8:05 PM

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I stand corrected. :) NT

by JaKaL



Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 8:41 PM

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Wicked Air Sportz, More BS.

by

I found this on their page. See if you can pick out this bs. It redlined my meter..

"The unit shown above is a simple plug-in replacement for the stock infrared transmitter "eye". The stock eye is a metal component, and subject to corrosion from contact with the aluminum body. The Wicked Eye(TM) is made of high impact plastic. The Wicked Eye(TM) is the proper frequency spectrum of infrared energy, matching the receiver perfectly. The stock eyes are not matched which results in failures when the eyes are not in perfect alignment. By using the proper infrared spectrum, this replacement eye will transmit through liquid paint! If you ever get paint into the breech of your Intimidator, the stock eyes will "go blind". With the Wicked Eye(TM), your anti-chop system will still function perfectly! Compatible with the Equalizer and stock electronics for the Intimidator"

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 7:18 PM

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First stupid question... IF your AC works, why is there paint?

by Vampyr

Where did the paint in your breech come from? Frequency really isn't that important. Thereceiver an absorbtion curve. There is a specific freq that the receiver works best at, but tends to be rather broad spectrum. Next question... Corrosion? Why is the aluminum working as a sacrificial anode? I'm not saying it won't happen but is it really a problem?

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 7:24 PM

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Haha, they just floor me with that $hit.

by

Seems like they BS EVERY single item they make, down to the impellers they make for the revolution. Sounds to me like "cordless loaders"

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 7:29 PM

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Wait for the New Batteryless loaders...

by Vampyr

Never worry about your loader batteries dying again. And just wait for a Non-electro cocker frame to come out too...

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 7:33 PM

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ROFL (NT)

by

NT

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 9:16 AM

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To be honest...........

by

the board and eye work every bit as good as he claims. now that doesnt say its because of the reasons he states but we have tested the board and eye and they do work much better than stock ones. Even Bobby was impressed enough to start shipping them in the new timmys. hype or not this time it seems to live up to it.

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 7:34 PM

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I'd bet higher powered emitter over frequency NT.

by Vampyr

NT.

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 7:36 PM

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No it doesn't...

by

"the board and eye work every bit as good as he claims"

The board and eye work phenomenally well. They are great products. But they still do not live up to what he claims.

It doesn't matter in terms of no-one will be able to achieve or need what he claims.

But he is still full of shit in the way he promotes his products. He hypes them up and never supplies any proof or evidence. The proof he does supply actually proves him to be a liar and doesn't reach his claims. He's claimed with his board the timmy could do 41.6cps. Then he claimed 35cps. Then he provided a video of it struggling to do 32cps, and I have a suspicion the bolt was shortstroking and not actually coming all the way back, in fact just far enough to pass the eyes. I'm also not convinced he had a 'proper' bolt in it...

He does make very good electronic products though. And in terms of the Equalizer it is very much worth having.

manike

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 5:25 AM

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Snake oil.......

by

I always get a used car salesmen vibe off him. Willing to tell you anything to put you in that "cherry" 89 tercel with no floorboards.
It aggrivates me, he is producing an excalibur board. I'm probably going to buy one just so i don't need a laptop to change my bolt timing. Or i could just buy a morlock.....
Regardless i don't want to support this guy due to the way he advertises.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 6:05 AM

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Anyone interested in analysing this thread

by

at the Impulse Owner's Group the thread http://www.impulseownersgroup.com/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8102 has been focused on the "eye or no eye" issue , but in between there are some intersting claims about switch debounce and solenoid control made by WAS. If anyone is intersted is skimming through the posts what I would like to know is the likelyhood of some of his claims especially the solenoid control which would eliminate first-shot-drop-off.

Tony.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 6:34 AM

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NO!

by

I will NOT analyze anything more by this pompous eel. Last time I did that, I ended up in a 3-week argument with him, about which I proved my point REPEATEDLY, and yet when he came in spouting technobabble that supposedly (without ANY scientific - or for that matter, reality-based - evidence whatsoever) proved me completely wrong, and every one of the uneducated sheep believed him. I spent hours and dollars working on a test system that would have proven him wrong - and I realized something. I could continue this forever, continually offering further and further evidence.

And it will make absolutely no difference.

Some people are sheep, will be sheep, hell they seem to LIKE being sheep - no matter how conclusively you show them the flaws, they'll still continue to overlook them.

So, my advice, let him go. Let him sell his BS. Nothing you can say will convince him to stop, and nothing you can tell the masses will stop one single lemming from hopping off this cliff.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 7:36 AM

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Besides, he's a good replacement for Mollick...

by

Mollick couldn't be reasoned with either. Best thing you can do is try to educate the sheep - 'extraordinary claims require extraordinary proof'.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 7:43 AM

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Or a jackbooted thug to pound it in them.(nt)

by Repoman

.

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 5:53 PM

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Anyone realize how long it would take to corrode?

by

Think about it galvanic (sp?) corrosion takes some time to start and there are a whole bunch of factors that are needed to initiate it.

Okay.. yes you have "possibly" two different metals in contact with each other. Is a current running through either (are any of the electric systems grounded to the body of the gun, I'm assuming that the eye is a sealed circuit). Also who's to say that the stock eye doesn't have an aluminum body.

Another thing to think about, why not put a tiny bit of lubrication or even teflon tape between the eye and the body....

Anyways with out going through some of my engineering books which are in my attic, I think it's highly unlikely that you are going to get any galvanic corrosion.

But please enlighten me if you think I'm wrong. I could always use more info as I made some basic scientific assumptions.. ie. I've never actually seen how the eye is fit into the body of the gun... is it threaded, push fit?

Also if we're so worried about galvanic corrosion why doesn't he come out with a really good ball detent, aren's some of them brass? That's two different metals, won't that promote corrosion.

I'm pretty sure galvanic corrosion all boils down to the type of metals and their ability to carry a current. It also has to deal with what happens to metal when it is put in the soil, for example you have to put corrosion control devices on water pipes under city streets and on bridge abutments.

So would you have any galvanic corrosion with your stock eye and body combo... probably not.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 8:48 AM

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but He uses big words to fool the sheep

by Spaceman!

BAAAAHHHHHHHHHHH Insert joke about kilts and dates

Name all of the places on paintball guns where two dissimilar metals contacts?
Hmm stainless or oxide screws in an aluminum body?
Helicoil?
barrel?
Xvalve and field strip screw on a mag?

I think the ONLY thing I ever saw on a paintball gun that could have been galvanic was ona couple old PMI-1s that had aluminum bolts corroded in the brass tubes. Looked like they had paint and slime on them, then sat for a couple years. And even that im not convinced wasnt simply slime that petrified.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 10:12 AM

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to bad anodized aluminum is NON conductive, no metals are really touching NT

by

wfg

Posted on Jan 9, 2003, 2:53 AM

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What is your favorite Freeware CAD program?

by Vampyr

Preferably 3D solid modeling... Even better if it will export .dxf or G-Code.

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 7:11 PM

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try rhino 3d,,

by dingo

http://www.rhino3d.com
i've been using it for over 4 years.
i can't complain about it.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 9:51 AM

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Rhino

by Kollmm

As an avid Rhino user, I agree that it is an awesome program. It is not, however, CAD; it's 3D NURBS based design. If your goal is to use CAD to go to CAM then Rhino is not the best place to start.

Solidworks is good but costs money, as does every other good cad program I know of.

Rhino also isn't "free" however you can download a fully featured, 25-saves-only demo from their website.

P



Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 10:05 PM

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A few things...

by Vampyr

Well I'm starting to play with stCAD a smalltalk based open source CAD that looks promising for a few other projects, and am going to play with softCAD. Rhino looks to have a good demo, but it's more than my pocket can afford right now to produce an actual drawing.

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 4:13 PM

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Sheridan color pmi 2? Cant decide need input

by

Here is a link to pics of it
Please let me know what you think Thanks

http://forums.paintballcity.com/showthread.php?s=91c1ba8b9b22442c04e7e79df52f20f4&postid=2297082&t=8273#post2297082

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 6:38 PM

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that's a lot of plating......

by sergi

I'd wonder how well you can plate the dock stock.

and I'd really question the pot metal grip frame.
it would need a ton of surface prep lo look good.

I personally would nickel the gun, and polish the stock, and leave the handle and other parts black for contrast.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 7:22 AM

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I agree.

by

Unless you have a ton of time and money. Gold plating is pretty expensive and would probably wear of pretty easily as it's a softer metal. Also unless you are really close to the gun you aren't going to be able to see gold high-lites real well.

I'd just polish the gun and have it nickle plated, then if anything strip the paint on the frame and give it a fresh coat of black.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 9:00 AM

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I have a question your comic Doc

by Anonymous

I know this has probably been asked before and its kind of a dumb question but how do you do the animation for your comic?

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 5:31 PM

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* sorry I mean about you comic

by Anonymous

.

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 5:33 PM

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Animation?

by

Nothing's animated on my comic. I've fooled around with some animated .gifs, just as an experiment, but the main comic isn't even remotely animated.

If you mean how I draw the actual regular comic, well, real quick like, I have some sheets with photocopied panel squares on 'em, I sketch the pics on that with an old Pentel mechancial pencil, I ink over the sketch with a selection of plain'ol felt tips, scan it, fiddle with it in Paintshop (increase contrast, "flood fill" shading and greyscale tones, add the text, etc) xrop it to size, save it as a .gif (was .jpg last year, the .gif gives a cleaner black/white contrast) and upload it to my site.

Sometimes I can bang out a strip, start to uploaded finish, in less than an hour. Other times I might fuss over dialogue alone for an hour. Typically I do it while I'm doing other things- mainly answering E-mail- so I might spend three or four hours, by the clock, on one strip, though it ends up being only an hour or so realtime on the actual work.

Doc.

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 5:49 PM

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Thats what I wanted to know thanks

by Anonymous

.

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 8:09 PM

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Which WACOM tablet do you own?

by

Which Model Series?
What Size? they look pretty neat, Hehe I like the LCD one, the most expensive series.

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 8:40 PM

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WACOM tablets:

by

The little one, the Graphire2. It's more than adequate, full featured, and compact enough it isn't eating up a lot of my computer-desk space.

The "active" area is only 4" by 6", and the whole pad is about 10" square. I would like to have one a tad larger, like the 6" by 9", but at the time, I hadn't even used a tablet yet and didn't want to throw away big bucks only to find out I didn't like it or couldn't use it the way I wanted.

They're usually $100, I got mine on sale (okay, somebody bought it for me as an early Christmas present) for $80. I'm plenty happy with it, and continue to be amazed at some of the stuff I can do with it.

I used it to retouch, color and shade all the new color logos for this page, the Classifieds and the General Tech forums. And there's the remarkably-pencil-looking sketches shown in the Sketchbook off the TWB page.

It also has a really cool cordless, batteryless and ball-less mouse; you just plunk it on the tablet and you can use it just like a normal configurable three-button scroll mouse. Lift it off and switch to the pen, it changes over automatically and seamlessly. It's quite interesting.

Sure, I'd love to get one of the 18" flat-panel LCD display tablets, and be able to draw directly on the screen. There's still a little difficulty with drawing, but not directly on the work- IE, you're looking at the art straight ahead, but your pen and hand are off to the side.

But the LCD versions, cool as they are, start at about $1,800, and much as I'd like one, that's just way too much for somebody who's not a professional graphics designer (or paid cartoonist. )

Doc.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 2:17 AM

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Real quick Q on E-Mags:

by

Okay, real quick: What's the E-Mag battery pack nominal voltage? I have one that reads 18-point-something and another that reads 16v. I have no charger, both are customer's guns.

Second, if anyone knows it- Manike?- what's the minimum voltage that'll still semi-reliably cycle the gun?

Thanks.
Doc.

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 4:49 PM

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16.8 volts nominal...

by

14 1.2 V cells.

im sure much below 16 wont cycle well, its an 18V 'noid.

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 4:52 PM

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Fourteen?

by

There's 14 cells in that thing? Okay, soon's I have twenty seconds (and no ones looking) I'm gonna have to open it up.

Thanks.
Doc.

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 4:56 PM

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14 AAA's...

by

found out when i asked if 10 AAA's would fit in the case.

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 4:57 PM

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Back again: 9Vs?

by

What is it about standard 9Vs? Not enough amperage to make it work? Don't last as long?

(I know this has all probably been asked before, but I didn't write any of it down.)

How does one connect a charger to the E-Mag pack? As I said, I don't have one, haven't seen one.

Doc.

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 5:42 PM

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no, a 9v wont

by

a 9v wont run the beefy solenoid. its much bigger than the noid used in a CenterFlag. As for the charger, you first remove the battery pack via the field strip screw. then the charger fits on top where the two metal connecters are. the field strip screw goes back in to secure it in there. plug the charger into a 12v power source

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 5:46 PM

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Well, I expected that...

by

No, I didn't expect one 9V would run a 16V solenoid- the question was why not use two 9Vs?

As I said, I know it's been asked before, and I'm sure it's been debated at length somewhere, but at best I only glossed over anything about it, since I wasn't working on an E-Mag at the time )and usually had other things to think about. )

I assume the 9Vs don't have the amperage necessary, or get drawn low too fast, or something. I'm just kinda free-associating on this one.

Doc.

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 5:53 PM

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it needs 14volts

by

on airgun.com it says it only needs 14 volts my dad is getting me a lithium battery from work to help lighten it up

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 6:03 PM

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What about 4?

by Vampyr

A series/ parallel combo for 18V (series of two) and paralleled for current (a total of 4)? Still got to be smaller/lighter than 14 AAAs...

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 6:53 PM

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yeah, that will work, but it probably wont fit in the case...

by

4 9Vs take up a lot of space...

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 5:27 AM

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"9 volts suck." - Tom Kaye

by

The reason they went with a big ol' pack of AAA cells was because 9v batteries would run down too fast, IIRC. When AGD says the E-Mag will get 20,000 shots off a full charge, they mean 20,000 balls-to-the-wall shots, heating up the battery like crazy, and probably dropping the voltage down to around 12v). Overengineered, perhaps, but dang reliable.

Aftermarket 9v powered frames also supposedly have a much shorter 'on' time, as I've heard rumors of bolt wear when using such frames.

The E-Mag battery pack is 16.8v, 650mAh. To get the equivalent 10920mWh of power from 9v batteries, you'd need 6.7 Plainviews or 5.8 Tysonics. Makes that big ol' pack look a lot more reasonable now, eh?

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 8:09 AM

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How is the shorter on time detrimental?

by mooamooa

I have heard many times about short on times chewing up bolts and sears, but how?

Is it becuase the sear is returned much more quickly than normal, causing the bolt to ride on the sear?

Let's say a bolt and sear have a failure at 1 million 'normal' cycles. If the sear is returned much more quickly, the rate of failure is accelerated, due to the increased interaction between the sear and bolt.

So is the wear caused by more bolt/sear interaction, or some magical mechanical failure?

It's never been explained I don't think. AGD just says, don't mess with the timing rod or the 'noid pulse time.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 3:24 PM

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Yeah, that's basically right....

by

If you have a tremendously short 'on' time, the sear raises before the bolt returns to the rear, thus causing wear. In the E-Mag, the 'on' time is 20ms (had originally been 30), which allows enough time for the bolt to fire and return to the 'at rest' position.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 3:45 PM

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I think Have Blue may be able to help

by mooamooa

Of course, he was among the first to hack the Emag board. Might wanna shoot him an email.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 2:06 AM

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Here's what I have on the E-Mag...

by

Well, what I'm allowed to divulge, anyway

http://haveblue.org/tech/e-mag/

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 8:41 AM

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So where is the super secret folder?

by mooamooa

Well? Where is it?


Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 3:26 PM

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I can't tell you that!

by

Tom would roast my.... well, it wouldn't be pleasant

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 3:47 PM

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Possible to modify 2000 trigger plate to pre 99?

by Petey

Ok being the idiot i am, i managed to purchase a shocktech trigger plate for my bob long finger grooved frame thats a pre-99 frame.... now i dont have any money because i have no job.. but i have the next bext thing.. some sand paper and a dremel... i want to know if i can somehow modify the plate into fitting the grip frame.. any ideas?

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 3:29 PM

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Yes, but...

by

It'll take you a long time with a Dremel. And I don't have any specs, you'd have to compare it to the 'correct' plate.

Happen to have a purple gun? I have a no-name post-'98 (the actual cutoff for the new style plates) frame here, annoed purple, single-trigger- I'd trade straight up for the Bob Long (if it's the one like on Curt's old 'Cocker.)

Heck, I'd even install and time it, if you pay for shipping.

Doc.

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 4:52 PM

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Re: Yes, but...

by Petey

no trade... but will sell for reallly cheap like.. 25 bucks... because i dont need it anymore... any interest? its the bob long frame with the curved back and the finger grooves... very comfy.

Posted on Jan 17, 2003, 3:41 PM

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Have you all noticed the Whiteboard upgrades?

by

I just noticed the addition of the [FAQ] and [Sketchbook] tabs at the top, some fun reading

-Curt

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 3:22 PM

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there are some minor inaccuracies in the

by

history of doc.

Dew is more yellow than green unless viewed through the bottle.
-and-
It never mentioned his stunning turnaround of 2 years (± a year) that kept his shop in good public view.




just finished reading it, good stuff.

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 3:43 PM

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Yes, but it *was* a pig barn.

by

Back then at the beginning, long turnarounds weren't a problem. In fact, most often boredom was a problem, 'til I started getting enough work to make a "real job" out of it.

Doc.

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 4:54 PM

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hehehe, interesting.. -nt-

by

nt

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 4:55 PM

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Would like some help with my trigger job.

by

I'm trying to take out the play in my Impulse's trigger and make it nice and snappy. It currently has the standard planet Eclipse Blade trigger in it.
I've tried putting a some brass shim stock on one side of it, to no avail, it kept jamming up, and yes I measured the thicknesses and it was 2 thousandths less than the clearace on the side of the trigger. So basically can anyone help me out with a tip or two on how to make it lose tha kinda mushy feel and feel nice and crisp and without the side to side, and vertical(even worse) play in the trigger. I can actually lift my trigger up and down a little in the frame.

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 3:18 PM

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try adding a set screw that locks down against the pivot pin.

by

that should help with 90% of your problem. As for the "Feel" of it, that'll be a matter of individual tuning work. Decide whether the spring is stiff enough, if not add a little stiffeness in the form of a hardware store selection.

Have a great Day!





E-mail Punisher


Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 4:54 PM

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Okay, I'm leaving...

by

... To head into town to get some parts. Busy week this, and it's already 3:00 on Monday.

I'll be offline, or at least really busy this week, so board visitation and/or 'mail replies will likely be delayed.

I'm getting some major projects off the ground- I hope- and the legwork is already impressive. But I haven't found the "rasin bran" factor yet, so I think it'll all work out. On top of that, I expect to have all my past debts- and hopefully most of the past work- taken care of (Chris, Phil, you guys are at the top of the list, all I can ask is a little more patience) by the end of the month.

Got to try an X-Mag last night. Pretty cool, if I do say so... but why does everyone like those magnetic triggers so much? It felt mushy and inconsistent to me. Perhaps I'm just used to the slight "snap" of a carefully-sprung microswitch...

Doc.

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 3:11 PM

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because it isn't a clickity-click mouse-click trigger...

by

at least for me. the e/x mag trigger can be adjusted for preference, an dnot just length of pull. Next best thing to a "real" trigger with "feedback" - but hay - that's just my opinion.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 6:02 AM

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I don't like the E-Mag trigger myself...

by

It's not the lack of a click, it's the fact that resistance decreases as you you pull further (unlike any other trigger that you've encountered before - paintguns, firearms, or even plastic bottle sprayers). Yeah, it makes for a nice 'break' when you pull, but it's not a feel that lends itself to a high ROF, IMHO. Flip the magnets around, and I think it would feel a lot better.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 12:43 PM

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Hmm.

by Ultimator

Reversing the magnets wouldn't be too hard ... hmm I'd actually like to feel a trigger like that.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 4:41 PM

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You would have to relocate them too...

by CRySyS

Just reversing them would make the trigger push back and stay back.

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 5:28 AM

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Questions about the " Blade"...

by

I remember that this topic came up recently but the "Search" option doesn't work.

Paintball Inc. made the Blade a couple of years ago and I saw a new one at a PB store over the weekend.

What was the overall consensus of the gun?
Worth buying ($180)?
Barrel compatibility?

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 2:46 PM

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Consensus:

by

A) Heavy, bulky, oddball blowback semi-auto. Everything on the gun was huge- nearly the size of a VM, or even bigger in some cases. Internally, it was closer to the size of Spyder guts, so you can see there's all sorts of meat to 'em. There are no- that is, not a single one, never has been- aftermarket parts. No one ever made barrels, no one ever made grips, bolts or valves. Repair or replacement parts simply don't exist.

B) For that price, it's not bad. Buy it, hang it on the wall. Or sell it to me, and I'll do a review of it like that SATCO, and then hang it on the wall.

C) Barrels are totally proprietary. The "hood", or portion of the barrel that slides into the gun before the threads start, is something like four inches long. Then there's a very short section of semi-coarse threads, the the rest is full 1" diameter aluminum. It's possible you might find an aftermarket barrel that can be turned down to fit, but just off the top of my head I can say that any DYE, Freak or other 2-piece barrel is impossible. Most solid stainless or contoured aluminim is a no go... You might get away with turning down an original style full-body LAPCO, or an older 16" All-American barrel, but that's about it.

By a "couple of years ago", if you mean a decade or more, you're right. It was low production even then, and I'm told it was somewhat problematic even when new.

Doc.

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 2:57 PM

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If you want it...

by

I'll look into it. It is at a store about an hour away, but for you... notta problem.

It appears to have been test fired or at least had a bottle screwed in.
It is a bit big, the grip is narrow and all aluminium.
Kinda cool,though in a unique gun sorta way.

Dan

Posted on Jan 6, 2003, 4:35 PM

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I sure wouldn't mind it...

by

... But that depends strongly on finances.

Is it a Blade or a Blade 2? How low will the owner go on it?

Doc.

Posted on Jan 7, 2003, 2:19 AM

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Incorrect on point 1....

by

There was at least one aftermarket barrel for the Blade - when I nabbed a Blade II, it actually came with a J&J barrel (yes, has the J&J logo right on it).

Posted on Jan 8, 2003, 5:59 PM

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