Re: Dragon Magic tracksMarch 25 2010 at 4:56 PM
|John Murcutt (Login jlmurc)|
from IP address 220.127.116.11
Response to Dragon Magic tracks
You can either leave the wheels loose and once built lift off the tracks once set in a single part, or make the top, bottom and the joiners around the the drive and idler, but then not glue the lengths together, so that they can be removed, for painting and weathering, then finally assembled, for finishing.
Either make a jig from plastruct or against a straightedge like a steel ruler. Work in short lengths and work top of run and bottom in a logical start and finish point. Then Estimate the number of links to go around the idler and sprocket, to link them altogether.
The best glue to use is a 'not so hot' one that dries slower like Humbrol Poly Liquid and apply it to each link, with a fine brush very carefully, so as not to flood the detail. allow this to dry for about 40 mins, so that they are still flexible, then fit them around the suspension, forming any sag along the top run and then let them fully harden. Just decide which method in para one you wish to use and still treat them gently.
It is fairly simple but a little monotonous, so I build a segment, then wander off and have a break by working on something else.
- Thanks John... - Chris Storch on Mar 29, 4:18 AM
- I use good old Testor's... - Gary Cunningham on Mar 29, 8:37 PM
- Fine thread. - Jody Smith on Aug 31, 3:07 PM