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(Login godfather7) Missing-Lynx members from IP address 220.127.116.11
I have been trying to put pigments into corners and recess to simulate built up dust. I place the dry pigments then add tamiya thinner to set them in place. I wait overnight until dry but am finding that the majority of the time I cant brush excess pigments of the vehicle even with a bristle brush. Am i waiting too long to brush the dust of or adding too much thinner suggestions please? This also happens when applying pigments to wheel rims; the powder is too set and hard to brush off. I have read MIGs articles but no help.
Why not fill a container up with thinner and then add the powders...then dip the brush in, stir it around to agitate the powder, and then just brush it on the model...should settle in the recesses like you want.
I'm using MMP but I've always had nice results using this method...although I use water instead of thinner...makes it easier to get rid of the excess. If you're worried about tide marks...use a hair dryer to rapidly dry the wash...you should be good to go.
Even if ususing turpentine the pigments don't fix as you want, try to apply a pre-dusting. I means...sometimes the surface in our vehicle is not falt, but satin or even glossy. This make a surface not apropiate for the pigments.
Apply Flat varnish or tamiya buff mixed with flat earth with airbrush in the areas where you wish to acumulate the pigmets. Just a very thin a soft layer to make the surface more flat.
then, apply the pigmnets, add the turpentine and left dry off.
It must work, this is my method and always work.
But, don't try to remove the pigment with a brush. Of course, if you try remove the pigments with a hard hair brush you will rmeove even the basecoat and maybe even the plastic!!!!
I have all my models here since many years ago, all of them painted with pigments. I touch my models everydays, I bring it to many shows and all of it have the pigment perfectly fixed like the first day.
(Login Ali_1_KJ) Missing-Lynx members 18.104.22.168
October 13 2005, 4:44 AM
Hi It does depend on the type of Weathering Powder you use.
If you use MIG Pigments follow MIGs good advice on how to with that type.
If you use MMP Weathering Powders, follow Eddies advice as these have an adhesive already in them which allows you to use water if you wish (or other methods suchn as Future and gels turps etc) and still get the fix you need..
IF you wish to use them dry, a long breath on the model will give some moisture and help the MMPs stick like *** to a shovel. For me I use water and Meths 50/50 (D'd'tred A) which eliminates any tide marks.
(Login djnick66) Missing-Lynx members 22.214.171.124
Another way to apply them
October 13 2005, 11:22 AM
I mix Mig pigments with Testors clear flat laquer and airbrush it on the model. For an overall dusting, just spray larger areas, like the suspension, fender tops, etc. You can layer it on. Each layer is somewhat translucent and subtle. For built up dirt/dust, dial in the airbrush and flood the stuff into cracks and gaps, etc. You can always go back and add some dry powder on top.
I seal the loose pigments with a light airbrush coat of the Testors laquer. I find it does not make the pigments invisible or disappear to a great degree.
Scott Head (Login shead) Missing-Lynx members 126.96.36.199
David, what would be the difference....
October 17 2005, 11:57 PM
David, what would be the difference between suspending the pigment in lacquer and simple paint? Not being a pigment user (yet) I don't understand and this is a sincere question, not a smart alec remark.
I have used many dry pigments in silicones and such when making FX stuff, in silicone it performs just like paint. I was curious what the difference is putting pigments in a carrier since that's pretty much paint. Is it a different quality you get from applying pigments in lacquer through an airbrush or by brush as opposed to using thinned paint the same way?
(Login djnick66) Missing-Lynx members 188.8.131.52
Paint versus pigment
October 19 2005, 3:47 PM
Well you could mix paint in clear laquer to make it more translucent. I have done that in the past with Tamiya Buff or Earth, and Clear Flat Acrylic.
Pigments in clear are very subtle, and have less opacity than a layer of paint. Plus the sprayed pigment will match any powdered pigments you put on the model, rather than having paint, which may not match.
Just something else to use. If you are going to mix something up its just as easy to mix some clear with pigment as clear with paint.