Confused over decal / transfer process...May 27 2016 at 5:07 PM
|Andrew Tomlinson (Login AndrewTomlinson2)|
from IP address 220.127.116.11
Albeit an aged and experienced modeller, I still angst over this process -
i.e if a Klear coat is put on for adhesion benefits and protecting the underlying surface, should I then put a Micro Set or Sol on, OR Mr Setter / Softener (as I have both)...?
then a Klear coat?
Or is it Klear, then transfer, then Klear, or what?
And how long between coats to avoid chemical re-actions, although I sometimes use a hairdryer to enhance the drying? Sometimes I get are-action which goes milky on the Klear.
Sorry if this is basic stuff ! Do certain transfers work best with certain softeners too?
Clear, decal, decal solution, clear
|May 28 2016, 4:58 AM |
|May 28 2016, 10:55 AM |
which do you think works best on which type?
Re: Thanks... and
|May 28 2016, 11:59 AM |
For best results, you should let the base clear coat dry 24 hours before using any setting solutions. I only have experience with Micro Set/Micro Sol and Solvaset, so I can only comment on their usage. Generally you would give your model of a gloss clear coat first and let it set up at least overnight. The gloss coat helps prevent silvering of the clear decal film. When applying the decals, first wet the area where you are going to apply the decal with Micro Set. You can gently pat the decal down with a damp paper towel. It is important if you do this that the paper towel is damp or else you risk the decal sticking to the paper towel. You then give the decal a light coat of Micro Sol to help soften the decal so it can snuggle down. At this point, do not touch the decal even if it start to wrinkle up. This is normal. Let the decals set overnight. If you find the decals are having a tough time settling down over a rough surface, you can apply another coat of Micro Sol or a stronger solution such as Solvaset. When the decals have dried. Take a damp paper towel or moistened Qtip and clean off excess decal solvent from the decals. This will prevent discoloring your top coat. Now it's time for another clear coat to seal in the decals. Most people will suggest using a flat coat if you are looking for a matte finish. I find that this sometimes shows the decal edges. I recommend another gloss clear coat first. This will help blend in the decals. If you are going for a flat/satin finish, you can overcoat the gloss with this final coat.
Hope this helps,
Decal process made easy
|May 28 2016, 1:38 PM |
In general, decals go on best over a smooth, glossy surface. So, since most armor models are painted with flat paints and have a lot of rough surface texture, you want to apply a clear gloss coat where the decals will go.
I personally do not use Pledge/Future/Klear for a variety of reasons. Instead I just use some Testors Clear Gloss Lacquer or Tamiya Clear Gloss acrylic. The nice thing with the Testors stuff is that it is rock hard. Decal solvents like Solvaset, Micro Sol etc. can soften Pledge/Future/Klear and turn it cloudy. This can happen also with acrylic clears. I have had the decal solvents soften Tamiya acrylic paints that were not sealed. I can't say I have had an issue with any of the enamel or lacquer based clears (Testors, Tamiya spray can, etc).
Many of the decal sets/solvents come in two jars for a two step application. Using Micro Set and Micro Sol, for example, you apply a little puddle of Micro Set (blue bottle) down on the model's surface. It is a wetting agent that helps you move the decal around, and also displaces the air underneath the decal (which is what contributes to bubbles and silvering). Once you get the decal positioned, you can lightly push it in place with a paint brush or lint free cloth. Do not blot it down just push it enough to get rid of some of the excess liquid, and to make sure it won't move.
Then apply Micro Sol (red bottle) on top. This is a stronger solvent that softens the decal and allows it to conform over and around surface details. Do not touch the decal after you apply the solvent! The decal may wrinkle up, but do not blot it. Let it smooth out on its own as the liquids dry up.. In the end, it should lay back down very snugly on the model. Any small bubbles or wrinkles can then be pricked with a knife point, and re-wetted with a bit more Sol.
After the decals have dried for a day or two, apply the clear top coat of your choice.
Gunze Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softener work about like Micro Set/Sol. Some products come in different strengths. I use Tamiya Mark Fit (mild) under the decal and Mark Fit (strong) on top. Solvaset is a very strong one step fluid. I generally use Micro Set under a decal to position it, and then use Solvaset on top. If you put Solvaset under the decal, the decal can melt before you get it positioned properly.
You will find some brands of sets/solvents work better on a particular brand of decal. Tamiya kit decals tend to be on the thick side but respond well to Solvaset. Hasegawa decals seem to work best with the Mr. Mark stuff. Academy's decals are impervious to any solvents.
THANKS all ! Now that is helpful !
|May 29 2016, 4:20 AM |
What I needed as the bottle info / instructions is v poor on all of them.
I also use Games Workshop / Citadel 'Purity Seal'...
|May 29 2016, 10:39 PM |
in a rattle can as a smooth, fine acrylic protective layer. Although not cheap at £10 a can in UK (just bought from Questing Knight model shop in Wellington, Shrops.) It gives a fine coat and helps when handling models to prevent paint wearing off and as a smooth satin coat, useful before washes.
Unsure whether this is still enough 'gloss' before a transfer goes on, as it's really a satin / semi matt varnish, so I've been putting Klear onto it, then a transfer, then tried to work out the sols and sets process. So it sounds like I have to let them all dry a fair while before the individual coats go on, from your comments. Hence the hairdryer process...
|This message has been edited by AndrewTomlinson2 from IP address 18.104.22.168 on May 29, 2016 10:45 PM|