Pumori Expedition
Pumori Ascend – More information
The Mt. Pumori Base camp can be reached Kathmandu – Lukla flight and trekking via Namche Bazaar, Thangboche – Pheriche and Lobuche. Mt. Pumori is 7145m. high and ascent starts at 5,300m; which is beside a beautiful small lake from here you can get a beautiful sight of Mt. Everest and Kalapthar at 5545m.
Camp 1: After a 3 hrs walk you will reach camp 1 or advanced base camp 5700m. After that you will have to walk the distance of 500m with the Elevation of a 40 to 65 degrees slopes. Pumori has many rock and mixed climb traverse, steep and expose to wind narrow ridges, some Ice walls, one tunnel climb. Some times you may need fixed ropes also.
Camp 2 starts at 6200m. it is located on a narrow ridge; So there is no fear of avalanches. The next 400m. Is an ice climb with 35-65 degrees, more 5m. is the Ice walls, many crevasses, and the bigger avalanche danger from big seracs hanging from the shoulder of 6500m.
Now camp 3, it is too windy. At the height of 6850m, from where you can see Tibetan plateau; and you need rope here because of many crevasses and ice walls way to summit. After that there are two climbing ranges; one from Tibet side and other is from Nepal side. Between these 2 sides the Nepal side is easier to Pumori Summit. After this walk to Summit is easy to reach on the summit of Pumori 7145m.
Normal route: This is the easier route to climb this peak and most of the expedition coteries climbed this peak so far have used this route. As you know Pumori is not easy as like the other mountains, there are difficult technical parts in this route as well. We suggest you, you should take climbing Sherpa and who will guide you to reach the Summit.
You need to have at least 3 camps after base camp to reach the summit. The base camp is just above Gorek Shep at the altitude of 5300m. After base camp, you can set up first camp at the altitude of 5,650m. around the phase of Mt. Pumori.
You should set second camp at the ridge after the phase at the altitude of 6,000m. The most technical part for this peak is around camp 1 and 2. You should set camp 3 at the altitude of 6,480m,around the corner after the ridge.
You can ascend summit from the camp 3 to the top of Pumori. Most of the climbers use this route for the expedition to Mt. Pumori in every year.
South - West ridge: Some very few climbers tried this route, but it is very difficult routes. This route follows directly from the top of Kalapathar and goes straight over the ridge nearly by 75 Degree. As this route has lots of technical difficulties. We suggest you to use the normal route for the Mt. Pumori and you & your group will comfortably reach the Top. For the more information please check Himalayan Journal 1996 or American Alpine Journal 1997. This book written by Climber who have been scaled the Mt. Pumori.
Itinerary:
01 April 05 Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu & transfer to Hotel
02-03 April 05 Day 02-03: Kathmandu official work & preparation for expedition
04 April 05 Day 04: Flight to Lukla & trek to Phakding lodge
05 April 05 Day 05: Phakding to Namche lodge
06 April 05 Day 06: Namche rest for acclimatization lodge
07 April 05 Day 07: Namche – Thyanboche lodge
08 April 05 Day 08: Thyangboche – Pheriche lodge
09 April 05 Day 09: Pheriche – Lobuche lodge
10 April 05 Day 10: Lobuche – Pumori Base Camp - Camping
11 - 28 April 05 Day 11-28 Climbing Period for Pumori 7145m. (Camping)
29 April 05 Day 29: Pumori BC – Pangboche -Lodge
30 April 05 Day 30: Pangboche – Namche -Lodge
01 May 05 Day 31: Namche – Lukla - Lodge
02 May 05 Day 32: Fly Lukla – Kathmandu & transfer hotel
03 May 05 Day 33-34: Kathmandu
04 May 05 Day 35: final departures
Cost USD 2500 Group Joining Basis (Group size minimum 4 person)
Garbage Deposit per team USD 2000.00
Cost includes:
Permit Fee (Royalty) of Pumori
Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu 5 nights with bed & breakfast
Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathmandu flight tickets & 50 kg. cargo of equipment more extra cost
Full board trekking with lodge & Food for BC Expedition period
Porter or Yak Lukla to BC & while back to Lukla
Equipment: 1 tent for 2 persons, trekking equipment for Base Camp, dining tent, toilet tent, table and chares, Mattresses
All kitchen equipment for Base Camp
Liaison office allowances, equipment allowances for staff, flight ticket, insurance for Nepalese staffs, Officer during the expedition period
Permit and National park fees
All transfer airport-hotel-airport
Staff: Base camp Guide, Cook, Kitchen helper, Necessary porters or Yak
All necessary taxes.
Agency service charge
Cost does not includes:
Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
High altitude (climbing) food, fuel, Gas above BC & personal climbing gear
Personal accident insurance and emergency evacuation, Helicopter rescue
International Airport Departure Tax
Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods arriving into Nepal, cargo.
Bar bills
Satellite phone and Waki takies
Extra expenses for personal
Oxygen and Mask regulator
Climbing Sherpa
http://www.monterosa-nepal.com
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