3- Lighter spring.
Here are some lighter springs. The spring should be about 1/8 to 1/4" longer
because I increased the volume on the valve by drilling into the valve cap.
The spring will actually close the valve even if it is very light but gas can
be wasted. I used one that's about half as strong. Too light a spring can cause
damage to the main tube as the hammer pin strikes it, at the front of the slot.
It can also cause the piercing pin to stick in the powerlet if the gun is not
bulked. I've also used two springs, slid together sideways to get the strength
I wanted. (see pic)
Pic contains dremel tools used, stock valve and a junk valve body used when
drilling the tube for safety screws.
4- Cut off piercing pin.
The above pictures also show before and after pics of the stem with and without
piercing pin. The metal is hard and the best way I have found to cut it is with
the dremmel and a thin cut off disc. CAUTION I cut a little at a time and let it
cool in between or drip water on it to prevent a melted seal. The stem can be
shaped but I've found that it's easy to mess the seal up because the stem gets
hot when you are working on it.
Then chuck what's left in a drill and use a file or sandpaper
as in step two. Round the sharp edges and polish the rest. I
took my time because too much pressure on the brass will
make it spin on the shaft making it hard to shape.
